After TTM ?

julie180

New member
Ich outbreak in 220 DT has caused me to pull all fish and start TTM. After the 4th transfer, I will be putting the fish into a 180 bare tank with about 90 gallons of water. Because I have some sand sitting in a bucket that is only about 3 weeks from being removed from the old tank, before the ich was introduced, should I try to get the 180 cycled so I don't have to deal with ammonia or am I asking for more problems and should I just run it as a QT and plan on water changes as necessary. Can I put some of the old sand in the 180 with new sand and jump start?

All live rock and livestock was transfered from the 180 into the 220 with 150 rubbermaid sump on 12/24, on 12/28 I introduced starry blenny and ich. I saw the ich on 1/16 and started ttm on 1/17

10" rabbit fish, large kole tang, copperbanded butterfly, flame angel, falco hawk, starry blenny and a small clown.

Thanks!!
 
If you are 100% sure that the materials are not exposed to ich, getting the tank cycled would be desirable since you will need to leave the display tank fallow for (optimally) 72 days.
 
What would be the safest way to do this? The sand is from the bottom of the tank and pretty icky and yes, I am extremely confident its safe.

I am planning on the 72 days. Seems like a life time, but I NEVER want this experience again!!
 
my personal opinion is that adding used sand is going to give you more headaches than worth. and by not using the sand, it gives you one less possibility of where ich snuck in at some point in time prior but you never saw ill results from. if there was ich in there previously, the sand bed will surely have had cysts in it.

plus there is the gunky side of sand that always gets me nervous.

you can add bacteria-in-a-bottle to help speed along the cycle, and do water changes + prime/amquel as necessary; you won't have any issues with that tactic.
 
I would also dump a good amount of Dr. Tims nitrifying bacteria if you have a sponge or something else for it to attach to. It can only help.
 
we are in the exact same boat... so far I caught 1/3 of my livestocks..

I have a 120gallon being cycled with dry rocks and Dr. Tims while I'm doing TTM
 
my personal opinion is that adding used sand is going to give you more headaches than worth. and by not using the sand, it gives you one less possibility of where ich snuck in at some point in time prior but you never saw ill results from. if there was ich in there previously, the sand bed will surely have had cysts in it.

plus there is the gunky side of sand that always gets me nervous.

you can add bacteria-in-a-bottle to help speed along the cycle, and do water changes + prime/amquel as necessary; you won't have any issues with that tactic.

This is what I would do.
 
Can I tag along in this thread? I'm in the same boat as you, just did my first transfer (day 3), and I just cleaned and dried the hospital tank, now drying the equipment and such.

For the experts here, if the equipment was soaked for a day in fresh water and vinegar, is that good for disinfection? And now air drying? All media has been thrown away, some has been boiled and microwaved over and over... Is this good to use again once completely dried?

For what it's worth, I find prime better than ammo lock, and IO's Bio spira is great.. I used three bottles to bring down ammonia levels in my HT. It really helps the bacteria levels. I since cleared the HT, so it was almost a waste, but it saved my fish for a week that it was used. Once the HT is set again, I am using another bottle to seed the media. Try it out, OP.
 
m0nkie, TitanCi So sorry you are at this party from !@#$. Great idea about the bio in the ht. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Ammonia is going to be my biggest problem. I just did my first transfer today and even with Prime the level was higher than I am comfortable. Glad the fish are out of that tank.

I have decided to not use the old sand, I got some new foam sleeves and ceramic rings for my mag canister filter floating in the 180 with bio and some dry rock. Should I put in some mysis to feed the bio while waiting for the fish? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think I should spike the ammonia and hope that it drops before the fish go in.
 
Can I tag along in this thread? I'm in the same boat as you, just did my first transfer (day 3), and I just cleaned and dried the hospital tank, now drying the equipment and such.

For the experts here, if the equipment was soaked for a day in fresh water and vinegar, is that good for disinfection? And now air drying? All media has been thrown away, some has been boiled and microwaved over and over... Is this good to use again once completely dried?

For what it's worth, I find prime better than ammo lock, and IO's Bio spira is great.. I used three bottles to bring down ammonia levels in my HT. It really helps the bacteria levels. I since cleared the HT, so it was almost a waste, but it saved my fish for a week that it was used. Once the HT is set again, I am using another bottle to seed the media. Try it out, OP.

My understanding is that drying completely is the goal. I took the blow dryer (its good to find a use for it) and went over my canister filter and heater and was shocked at the water that was still hiding. I think the compressor or leaf blower will be coming out next time.

Best of luck
 
and just as important is that you allow it to stay dry for 24 hours; at least that is what the research showed as required to kill the cysts.

went over my canister filter and heater and was shocked at the water that was still hiding
this is why with TTM it is best to keep things as simple as possible, not allowing any nooks and crannies in equipment where water can stay hidden. airstone/tube (thrown out each time), pvc and a heater.
 
and just as important is that you allow it to stay dry for 24 hours; at least that is what the research showed as required to kill the cysts.


this is why with TTM it is best to keep things as simple as possible, not allowing any nooks and crannies in equipment where water can stay hidden. airstone/tube (thrown out each time), pvc and a heater.

WOW, I was not aware of this. I wish I had known before I washed and dried my temp controller and put it into the 2nd tank this morning. I only have 1 controller and DO NOT trust heaters. Can I dip it in vinegar or alcohol for the next transfer and be OK?

The mag canister is going onto the temp holding tank so I will wait to install it.

Thanks for the information
 
bleach solution will kill the cysts; however, when it comes to nooks and crannies, it is hard to be absolute sure the bleach got to everything. i used to do bleach and dry, but have moved to only drying now (albeit I do 3 days of being dry).

i use an Apex for temperature control and have a 2nd probe that I change out each transfer. do you have that as an option?
 
Man, I feel like I am fighting a war against an invisible enemy here. Oh wait, that's pretty much what it is :(

I do have a reef keeper, but its on my DT and would be somewhat difficult to get to the temp tanks. I am using a ranco for temp so at least its a nice smooth easy to clean surface. I will dip it into straight vinegar, rinse and dry for the next transfer.
 
Actually, heating the entire tank to 40°C (104°F) for at least 1 hour should kill all tomonts. Though I go a bit higher just to be on the safe side.

Smaller rocks, ceramic flower pots and what else fits in my big stainless steel pot, I just boil in tap water for a few minutes.
 
Man, I feel like I am fighting a war against an invisible enemy here. Oh wait, that's pretty much what it is :(

I do have a reef keeper, but its on my DT and would be somewhat difficult to get to the temp tanks. I am using a ranco for temp so at least its a nice smooth easy to clean surface. I will dip it into straight vinegar, rinse and dry for the next transfer.


Keep your head up Julie, and it sucks we are going thru this. I just let my equipment dry in the back yard for 48 hrs and bring it in the morning before the transfer to get things ready. Doesn't help when it gets misty at night here and it becomes wet again. Lol
 
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