AgentSPS' 300 Gallon ***DreamReef***

How are you liking the Spectra so far?

I've been pondering between this and the Sfiligoi XR6, but I've read plenty of horror stories regarding their products and CS. I like the look of the Spectra waaay more than the XR6, but the XR6 has 6 T5s and moonlights. I believe you can get the Spectra custom with a moonlight, but I'm not 100% on that...

Also, I forgot what your using for all of your flow (particularly alternating)? Your CL through the bottom and Tunzes right? I'm pondering asking AGE about external waveboxes before I get my drawing...I think I could get awesome flow from 2 nano waveboxes flanking my overflow, but I dont want the stupid boxes in my tank (BIG eyesore IMO). Or hope I can get a nice motion going for my SPS via Vortechs or Tunzes on the back wall.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13596392#post13596392 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stunreefer
How are you liking the Spectra so far?

I've been pondering between this and the Sfiligoi XR6, but I've read plenty of horror stories regarding their products and CS. I like the look of the Spectra waaay more than the XR6, but the XR6 has 6 T5s and moonlights. I believe you can get the Spectra custom with a moonlight, but I'm not 100% on that...

Also, I forgot what your using for all of your flow (particularly alternating)? Your CL through the bottom and Tunzes right? I'm pondering asking AGE about external waveboxes before I get my drawing...I think I could get awesome flow from 2 nano waveboxes flanking my overflow, but I dont want the stupid boxes in my tank (BIG eyesore IMO). Or hope I can get a nice motion going for my SPS via Vortechs or Tunzes on the back wall.


Spectra

From an aesthetics perspective you can't beat it! For having such simple reflectors, it does provide very good coverage. It is probably 18" above the water and I get full coverage. I personally can't stand the Giesemann bulbs in there now and am not impressed with their magnetic ballasts either. I just special ordered Giesemann female connectors in order to create pigtails (adapters) to allow me to plug the fixture into my PFO ballasts. I am going to try 250W pulse start on the ends and 400w HQI in the middle first. This worked well for me on my last system. I will be using Reeflux 12K bulbs which don't really even need actinic supplementation when run on these ballasts. I am even kicking around the idea of replacing two of the actinics with grow lights (pink in color) to make my pink and red corals POP.

As far as comparing Sfiligoi to Geisemann, I think Sfiligoi's reputation should be reason enough to chose an alternative brand. Don't get me wrong....I love the look but the pain might be too great to justify. I also would not allow two additional T5's to have much bearing on your decision as they should only be supplementing actinic. With the range of choices in kelvin for MH now, you can achieve your desired spectrum from halides alone. The moonlight is a cool feature. It would be pretty easy to retrofit in some LED's. Alternatively, doesn't the Infinity fixture contain moonlight?

Circulation

I am using Tunze Master Recirculation pumps for closed loop and return. I also have a pair of the Stream 2 6085's in tank. They will be swapped with the controllable models (6105's) soon and will be controlled by the Profilux. The combination of closed loop and Streams seem to generate plenty of flow now but we will see once my corals are in.

I personally like the idea of wave boxes built into external overflow. You do not need the Tunze waveboxes, just have AGE build custom ones by inserting baffles into the overflow box. Talk to JarHead about it as he did a good job with his tank. I would not do it on a rimless tank though. AGE designs their rimless to only have the water line about 1/2"-3/4" from the top. I was speaking to Aaron (ACGreen), who also have an AGE rimless, the other day and we both agreed that next time we would probably not go rimless. We would probably have AGE put their acrylic bracing over the top but just make it like 2" wide. This way it would prevent overspilling but still retain the clean look. Before I owned one, I never realized how much work goes into keeping the rimless clean. Fish are always splashing water out of the tank.

As for internal vs external overflow, for my situation internal was perfect as the tank is so wide that I needed to back it as close to the wall as possible. It also allows me to keep all the plumbing under the tank rather than behind. Aesthetically speaking, external is the way to go.
 
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Thanks for the informative reply Agent!

The Spectra is looking really nice IMO right now. I was thinking I might order it bulb-less, and with the pigtails already installed (I'm not much for DIY - because I stink at it :lol: ). I'm a sucker for 400W Radiums. The Infinity does not come with moonlights stock, and it only houses DE bulbs... thats the main difference bewtween the Spectra and Infiniti. They do make another model called the Moonlight pendent, which is the Infiniti with moonlights and dimmable T5 ballasts. There is an intricate computer indside that is supposed to replicate the moon phases, sunrise/sunset, etc., but it cannot accept SE bulbs. I remember seeing in a "Giesmann thread" around RC that someone bought a Spectra with moonlights already installed, and even the computer for the moonlights (I can live without that)... I'll see if I can dig it up somewhere.

I have requested that my overflow teeth be routed lower than normal, and it should give me ~ 1.5" between the water line and the top. My distributor is looking at having adjustable teeth installed, but I'm not 100% sold on that idea yet... something else to clean and go wrong IMO. Im pretty hell-bent on going rimless, but in terms of the wavebox it makes me nervous about having one pound on the front glass constantly. I think that they provide one of a kind flow though, particularly for SPS in helping keep detrius suspended and forming a natrual growth pattern. I did get a chnace to see a Vortech in action the other day, and I think I should be able to achieve something suitable between those and/or Tunze streams (especially connected to the Profilux).

Right on with the overflow... I should be good with 36" front to back and an internal, and I think it also adds to the aesthetics of the tank as a whole having the overflow internal (no plumbing out the back, and tank close to wall). If I was in-wall, and all the "ugly" can be hid in a fish room, external all the way!
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13598146#post13598146 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AgentSPS
Spectra


As far as comparing Sfiligoi to Geisemann, I think Sfiligoi's reputation should be reason enough to chose an alternative brand. Don't get me wrong....I love the look but the pain might be too great to justify. I also would not allow two additional T5's to have much bearing on your decision as they should only be supplementing actinic. With the range of choices in kelvin for MH now, you can achieve your desired spectrum from halides alone. The moonlight is a cool feature. It would be pretty easy to retrofit in some LED's. Alternatively, doesn't the Infinity fixture contain moonlight?

I'm guessing this based off of Fliger and Putayawet's experiences? If so, IMO, Sfiligoi has worked out the kinks and customer service aside, is the leader as far as technology between these two companies...Geisemann makes quality high end stuff, but generally just follows and copies Sfiligoi. For example, Sfiligoi released the Stealth units, then Geisemann released the Matrix units in the exact same bulb configs. Sfiligoi is the first EU company to my knowledge to release LED fixtures, and I'm guessing Geisemann will follow shortly. Since the problems had by initial adopters (Fliger and Putayawet), a number have folks (myself and ReefBum for example), have had good experiences w/ Sfiligoi fixtures.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13598682#post13598682 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stunreefer


I was thinking I might order it bulb-less, and with the pigtails already installed (I'm not much for DIY - because I stink at it :lol: ).

I am afraid you will have no choice as neither manufacturer is going to make a Giesemann --> PFO pigtail. Its really simple though. If I end up doing it I will be sure to take lots of photos to show you how.


I'm a sucker for 400W Radiums.


I used to use the old style Radiums exclusively despite their 4 month life on HQI ballasts. The new Radiums are nothing like the old ones. If you like Radiums I think you will love Reeflux. You will save a $GRIP$ too.

There is an intricate computer indside that is supposed to replicate the moon phases, sunrise/sunset, etc.,


Pretty standard feature in most aquarium controllers these days. I would prefer to have this capability in the controller rather than the device. One place to program and control everything. Its the same issue we face with Chillers today. The chillers contain a controller and then you plug it into the aquarium controller. Unnecessary redundancy.


My distributor is looking at having adjustable teeth installed, but I'm not 100% sold on that idea yet... something else to clean and go wrong IMO.


If done right I think this could actually be pretty cool! Perhaps they could create 1/4 slots/rails on the inside of the overflow. You can place in panels with different length teeth. Seems simple enough right?


Im pretty hell-bent on going rimless, but in terms of the wavebox it makes me nervous about having one pound on the front glass constantly.


I think the concern has been that the constant back and forth motion would put stress on all the silicone joints over time. I have been told that the tanks are built far stronger any wave action could exert. Also your tank is wide enough and long enough where it should have minimum impact. Again I defer to JarHead.


I think that they provide one of a kind flow though, particularly for SPS in helping keep detrius suspended and forming a natrual growth pattern.


I think the wavebox surge theory is sound but the amount of velocity/flow is far from ideal. Unless you are using a fairly decent surge box or very large wavebox, supplemental flow through CL, external pumps, or power heads is a requirement.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13599186#post13599186 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mcliffy2
I'm guessing this based off of Fliger and Putayawet's experiences? If so, IMO, Sfiligoi has worked out the kinks and customer service aside, is the leader as far as technology between these two companies...Geisemann makes quality high end stuff, but generally just follows and copies Sfiligoi. For example, Sfiligoi released the Stealth units, then Geisemann released the Matrix units in the exact same bulb configs. Sfiligoi is the first EU company to my knowledge to release LED fixtures, and I'm guessing Geisemann will follow shortly. Since the problems had by initial adopters (Fliger and Putayawet), a number have folks (myself and ReefBum for example), have had good experiences w/ Sfiligoi fixtures.

Hi mcliffy-

Good feedback and thanks for posting. I agree with you that Giesemann is def not the technology leader, which is not necessarily a bad business model.

One thing I forgot to mention about the Spectra (and I suppose all Giesemann fixtures) in my last post is what a PITA it is to change the bulbs. You need to unscrew about 6 hex screws on each end of the fixture to remove the endcap plates. Then you need to slide out all of the mesh panels and glass panels to access the lamps. It sounds easy but it is actually pretty difficult as the mesh panels don't slide out easy. Basically you need to take down the entire fixture just to change bulbs.


It would have been so much more convenient if they could have just had screws or something holding the glass panels in place. That way you could just remove a few screws to access the bulb.

Good thing I am not experimenting with bulbs anymore.
 
A Close Brush With Disaster

A Close Brush With Disaster

When one of these:

DSC_0008-2.jpg


Is operated by a delirious user and runs throughout the night, this is what the messy results are:

DSC_0007-1.jpg


DSC_0006.jpg


30 unwanted gallons pulled from the sump:

DSC_0003-2.jpg


"exploded view"

DSC_0002.jpg


Mopped up and drying out:

DSC_0004-2.jpg


DSC_0005-1.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13638816#post13638816 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Whoops! Looks like you got it resolved. How come it didn't shut off?

User error! The LM has three modes for the pump; Off, Run, and On. Run is the automatic mode which doses the required makeup. ON just runs the pump constantly. I accidentally set it to ON instead of RUN. In the future when I need to turn off the pump, I will just unplug it to avoid any chance of a repeat!! Fortunately my makeup water comes out of a 60 gallon container that had only 40 gallons in it. Also my salinity was running high so the 35-40 gallon infusion just brought it back to normal levels.

Close one!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13586213#post13586213 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by juniormc8704
I know my male is TINY, and seems to never get any larger...the female is probably 2-3 times the size.

Im actually thinking about removing the male for a extended period of time and letting him get big and fat, and reintroduce them to each other down the road and see what happens.

Worse case one wins, one well...

She hosts a huge colony of duncuns and will go after a 5" flame wrasse when he comes by, so aggression is definitely an issue.

I am good friends with a guy whos neighbor bread them for years...ill ask and see if he has any tips....obviously he figured out something we havent.


i think the size difference is a good thing, reduces aggression .
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13643363#post13643363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSMguy
i think the size difference is a good thing, reduces aggression .

Larger tank size is also supposed to help. At least gives them the option of keeping their distance.

My aggressive female is now in the sump with a pair of Maldives Clowns and they are acting like a trio. Go figure!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13643328#post13643328 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AgentSPS
User error! The LM has three modes for the pump; Off, Run, and On. Run is the automatic mode which doses the required makeup. ON just runs the pump constantly. I accidentally set it to ON instead of RUN. In the future when I need to turn off the pump, I will just unplug it to avoid any chance of a repeat!! Fortunately my makeup water comes out of a 60 gallon container that had only 40 gallons in it. Also my salinity was running high so the 35-40 gallon infusion just brought it back to normal levels.

Close one!

Luckily it didn't create any problems. I like what you did with this tank, I like it very much :)

Leonardo
 
whoa.. sorry to hear about the mess.

I was wondering, where did you find that richmond wrasse? I've been searching for one for some time now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13684029#post13684029 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eagleONE
whoa.. sorry to hear about the mess.

I was wondering, where did you find that richmond wrasse? I've been searching for one for some time now.

I picked up my Richmond at Aquatic Gallery (LFS). They had two come in and mine was the smaller of the two. Really turned out to be a spectacular fish! He eats like a pig too.
 
Latest Addition

Latest Addition

Black and Blue Teardrop Maxima!

BlackandBlueTeardrop.jpg


Crossing my fingers that it survives! In my last tank all my clams got wiped out by that dreaded clam disease. After losing my all green teardrop that I had for 3 years I vowed I would never do a clam again but alas I could not resist!


GreenTeardrop.jpg
 
WOW!!!

I've been off the net for a couple of weeks you have made some amazing progress and the tank is looking great!

Those are some beautiful clams. I would love to have clams but I'm afraid my CBB would destroy them. It was a choice between having clams or having the Copper Band, I took the fish....

Sorry about your rug. I'm glad I'm not the only one that makes those kinds of errors.
 
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