AI Hydra Settings Thread
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Orcus Varuna
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AI Hydra Settings Thread
I have a preset for t5 users which I use on my display. If you go with my settings running 2 blue plus with 2 coral plus would be overbearingly blue imo. I run a mix of coral plus and and geissman tropic 6500k's and Love it. Here is a true white balanced photo of my tank mid day.
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I have a preset for t5 users which I use on my display. If you go with my settings running 2 blue plus with 2 coral plus would be overbearingly blue imo. I run a mix of coral plus and and geissman tropic 6500k's and Love it. Here is a true white balanced photo of my tank mid day.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
AI Hydra Settings Thread
It reduces the intensity of the main schedule by 35%. Doing this keeps my par at or above 200 throughout the tank. Without reducing par was way too high for the lps in my tank.
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It reduces the intensity of the main schedule by 35%. Doing this keeps my par at or above 200 throughout the tank. Without reducing par was way too high for the lps in my tank.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
AI Hydra Settings Thread
If switching from the AB+ full power profile I would switch to my t5ho profile and add 1 bulb a week over a month. When I made the change I just kind of switched thinking everything would be okay since PAR was roughly the same. Well that was a bad idea, I lost some corals and bleached others. I think the downfall was I failed to take into account that even though PAR was the same coverage was worlds better. In essence previously shaded regions of my corals were suddenly blasted with way more PAR then they were used to and they bleached out. After the initial adjustment period though I must say that I couldn't be happier with the results. Just take it slow and you'll be alright!
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If switching from the AB+ full power profile I would switch to my t5ho profile and add 1 bulb a week over a month. When I made the change I just kind of switched thinking everything would be okay since PAR was roughly the same. Well that was a bad idea, I lost some corals and bleached others. I think the downfall was I failed to take into account that even though PAR was the same coverage was worlds better. In essence previously shaded regions of my corals were suddenly blasted with way more PAR then they were used to and they bleached out. After the initial adjustment period though I must say that I couldn't be happier with the results. Just take it slow and you'll be alright!
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Kinetic
Active member
Just took some PAR readings with my AI Hydra 52 HD, with the SPS AB+ high power (w/ peaks) program that Orcus had posted, with one modification. I increased the whites by a lot (probably bumped them up to twice as much as the baseline).
I have no corals (yet), and just anemones. The H. Magnifica is getting toasted with over 400! It hasn't moved from the pedestal rock I made for it, and the lighting probably has a lot to do with it. When I introduced it to the tank, I put it right where it is today, and it hasn't moved since.
The BTAs I'm guessing are pretty happy. The flow is a bit strong for them, but light seems to be enough.
My whites are bumped high because I subjectively like the aesthetics of the lights to be less blue. Still plenty of color and coolness to the tank, but my home office still looks nice.
When I get SPS, I'm going to probably have to modify the whites... since they may just totally burn the SPS up. Or do you guys think they'll be fine with slow acclimation?
I have no corals (yet), and just anemones. The H. Magnifica is getting toasted with over 400! It hasn't moved from the pedestal rock I made for it, and the lighting probably has a lot to do with it. When I introduced it to the tank, I put it right where it is today, and it hasn't moved since.
The BTAs I'm guessing are pretty happy. The flow is a bit strong for them, but light seems to be enough.
My whites are bumped high because I subjectively like the aesthetics of the lights to be less blue. Still plenty of color and coolness to the tank, but my home office still looks nice.
When I get SPS, I'm going to probably have to modify the whites... since they may just totally burn the SPS up. Or do you guys think they'll be fine with slow acclimation?
Sounds good! I will definitely do that. Thank you for your efforts on this thread. I think it has been a benefit for everyone with hydra lights for sure.
Orcus Varuna
New member
AI Hydra Settings Thread
I have unfortunately never been able to acclimate sps to more then 24-25% whites even with a slow acclimation. The Cree XP2 Cool White diodes are very hard on sps for some reason. I like you much prefer a color temp closer to 10k, the way I achieved this was by adding some Geissmann tropic 6500k & ATI Coral Plus t5 supplements.
By the way you have a darn nice setup, looks fantastic. I can't wait to see that mag literally take up the entire tank!!!
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Just took some PAR readings with my AI Hydra 52 HD, with the SPS AB+ high power (w/ peaks) program that Orcus had posted, with one modification. I increased the whites by a lot (probably bumped them up to twice as much as the baseline).
I have no corals (yet), and just anemones. The H. Magnifica is getting toasted with over 400! It hasn't moved from the pedestal rock I made for it, and the lighting probably has a lot to do with it. When I introduced it to the tank, I put it right where it is today, and it hasn't moved since.
The BTAs I'm guessing are pretty happy. The flow is a bit strong for them, but light seems to be enough.
My whites are bumped high because I subjectively like the aesthetics of the lights to be less blue. Still plenty of color and coolness to the tank, but my home office still looks nice.
When I get SPS, I'm going to probably have to modify the whites... since they may just totally burn the SPS up. Or do you guys think they'll be fine with slow acclimation?
I have unfortunately never been able to acclimate sps to more then 24-25% whites even with a slow acclimation. The Cree XP2 Cool White diodes are very hard on sps for some reason. I like you much prefer a color temp closer to 10k, the way I achieved this was by adding some Geissmann tropic 6500k & ATI Coral Plus t5 supplements.
By the way you have a darn nice setup, looks fantastic. I can't wait to see that mag literally take up the entire tank!!!
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Orcus Varuna
New member
You are very welcome! I thank you and everyone else for participating and keeping this thread going for so long.
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Reeftub
New member
I just wish they had an upgrade from hydra52 to the hd as I have 6 -52s over my 190 and I'd have to sell my 52s to buy the new HD's which sucks but I'll wait until they change the white leds and also add warm whites like the radions. I'm sure that will be next for these guys.
Orcus Varuna
New member
As AI are owned by Ecotech now I would definitely expect a lot of similarities between the Radion G4 and next generation hydras. Honestly wouldn't be surprised if they merged the two brands keeping the hydra moniker as a mid range lighting brand. The addition of some warmer white diodes I have to agree would be wonderful. Something around 6500k would be ideal imo!
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Hi Orcus,
i realy like you SPS AB+ settings and they work very well . I'm running 3 Hydra 26 HD on a Reefers 525xL.
I would like to add a Bluelight Phase for 2-3 Hours to have great fluorescent look in the very late evening. Do you have any suggestions how this will not stress out the corals and what would be the best fluorescent settings you can recomment ?
I have tryed a lot of times, but to get the very good fluorescent look i have to much lightblue what will make the water shine to much.
Many thx for awnsers ,
greatings from germany
Mike
Some Picture of my Tanks:
i realy like you SPS AB+ settings and they work very well . I'm running 3 Hydra 26 HD on a Reefers 525xL.
I would like to add a Bluelight Phase for 2-3 Hours to have great fluorescent look in the very late evening. Do you have any suggestions how this will not stress out the corals and what would be the best fluorescent settings you can recomment ?
I have tryed a lot of times, but to get the very good fluorescent look i have to much lightblue what will make the water shine to much.
Many thx for awnsers ,
greatings from germany
Mike
Some Picture of my Tanks:
shaginwagon13
Chartered Accountant
Didn't know that until now lol
Are you guys turning your Red and Green settings to 0%? From a lot of online sources, it says to turn them down to 0% on the display tank because it promoted algae growth.
What are people doing with this?
No, I turn them up with white to get the look I want. I always assume Algae is a nutrient problem not a light problem. Not many watts of red/green to worry about.
Orcus Varuna
New member
I'm with @rishma nutrients cause algae not light imo. I think the red and green channels are essential for proper chromatoprotien formation and zooxanthella health. Most of our corals are from less then 20' of water. As such they get plenty of this wavelength light in their natural environment.
Orcus Varuna
New member
Leaving the blues on 5% or less for a few hrs at the end of the day shouldn't be an issue.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
One of those rare photos where everyone's posing!
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