I have a jbj 45 rl tank been setup for close to a year now, but just recently switched over the the hydra26hd lights from the maxspect razors. I'm running 2 of the 26, 12 inches off the waterline do you have any recommendations on what a good profile to run would be. I run a mixed a reef lps in lower to mid, then some sps from mid to upper. I've been using the saxby lower power settings in acclimation mode and look pretty good but a little white for me I like the more blue look. I've loaded up your sps ab+ lower power with peaks and added 30 percent acclimation mode for now, looks pretty good to me spectrum wise, just don't wanna bleach or fry my corals. Tank dimensions are 26.5" x 21" x 19" any help would be greatly appreciated, from reading through here you seem to be pretty experienced with these lights.
AI Hydra Settings Thread
- Thread starter hilgert
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I have a jbj 45 rl tank been setup for close to a year now, but just recently switched over the the hydra26hd lights from the maxspect razors. I'm running 2 of the 26, 12 inches off the waterline do you have any recommendations on what a good profile to run would be. I run a mixed a reef lps in lower to mid, then some sps from mid to upper. I've been using the saxby lower power settings in acclimation mode and look pretty good but a little white for me I like the more blue look. I've loaded up your sps ab+ lower power with peaks and added 30 percent acclimation mode for now, looks pretty good to me spectrum wise, just don't wanna bleach or fry my corals. Tank dimensions are 26.5" x 21" x 19" any help would be greatly appreciated, from reading through here you seem to be pretty experienced with these lights.
Please someone give me some guidance, I'm driving myself crazy toying with the lights haha. A few of my orange/rainbow BTA's are now turning brown. Tank is a Red Sea E260 with 2x Hydra 26HDs. BTA dominated up top, leathers in the middle, zoas on the bottom. I just want to make sure the BTA's have enough light that they're not turning brown, but not bleach them at the same time.
Here are the settings that I've landed on tonight
UV: 75
V: 75
RB: 75
B: 75
G: 10
R: 3
CW: 20
I was running my UV and V way down around 40% previously which I believe has started to brown my BTA's. The blues were at 80% with CW around 12%. Colors were popping very well but I dont think they were getting enough overall PAR/PUR.
You can see the left side BTA's are overall brown. All the roses have been recently added in the last 2 weeks so they're still bright. The guy I got them from was running his Atlantik LED's at 100% all channels, some of them are a little bleached but they are super bright.
Here are the settings that I've landed on tonight
UV: 75
V: 75
RB: 75
B: 75
G: 10
R: 3
CW: 20
I was running my UV and V way down around 40% previously which I believe has started to brown my BTA's. The blues were at 80% with CW around 12%. Colors were popping very well but I dont think they were getting enough overall PAR/PUR.
You can see the left side BTA's are overall brown. All the roses have been recently added in the last 2 weeks so they're still bright. The guy I got them from was running his Atlantik LED's at 100% all channels, some of them are a little bleached but they are super bright.
Last edited:
Orcus Varuna
New member
Please someone give me some guidance, I'm driving myself crazy toying with the lights haha. A few of my orange/rainbow BTA's are now turning brown. Tank is a Red Sea E260 with 2x Hydra 26HDs. BTA dominated up top, leathers in the middle, zoas on the bottom. I just want to make sure the BTA's have enough light that they're not turning brown, but not bleach them at the same time.
Here are the settings that I've landed on tonight
UV: 75
V: 75
RB: 75
B: 75
G: 10
R: 3
CW: 20
I was running my UV and V way down around 40% previously which I believe has started to brown my BTA's. The blues were at 80% with CW around 12%. Colors were popping very well but I dont think they were getting enough overall PAR/PUR.
You can see the left side BTA's are overall brown. All the roses have been recently added in the last 2 weeks so they're still bright. The guy I got them from was running his Atlantik LED's at 100% all channels, some of them are a little bleached but they are super bright.
Use my sps AB+ settings your nems will love the extra par. Should blanket them in a solid 250-300 par.
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With 200 pages to comb through, can you link it?
Orcus Varuna
New member
I would say that low power setting should be perfect for the corals you are trying to grow. If you notice your acros are not coloring up after about 3 months at those settings bump up to my full power no peak profile over a 2-3 month slow acclimation.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
Orcus Varuna
New member
Anytime just glad to help. Let me know how it turns out and if your acros rebound.
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Thanks for the settings and advice
Thank you so much for the help and validation. Your settings are pretty much exactly like mine. I'm going to leave them alone for awhile.
This stupid UV channel has me confused. Everyone on the facebook group says drop UV to almost nothing, but all the documentation for the HD's says keep it up with the rest of the channels.
Orcus Varuna
New member
Dropping the uv diode always makes me laugh. 250 watt Metal halides put out about 100 times more uv radiation then the lonely near uv diode in the AI pucks.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
I currently run my AB+ with t5ho schedule with no peaks on my hydra 52hd on a 24x24 cube. I currently supplement with 1 actinic and 1 Tropic t5. And am in the process of adding 1 more Tropic and actinic.
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How long are your T5's on? When do they go on and off?
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Orcus Varuna
New member
dz6t
New member
Agree, algae growth has little to do with light.
The red and green channels are already covered by the white led. Take a look at the published spectrum plot and you can see.
Red and green are more for marketing.
Also they are low power so they don't do much at all.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
Agreed they are of little significance. I more appreciate what they do for the visual appearance of the tank by warming up the color temp of the display without the par increases boosting the cool white diodes has.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
Here is the updated link to the settings, someone accidentally deleted the folder AGAIN... lol https://1drv.ms/f/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdidaM1bosnUqv21g
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Papermonkeys
New member
Quick question,
I'm currently rocking a center mounted hydra 26HD on my Reefer 250. I finally purchased a 2nd one. Should I dial down the settings when I install the second one, or just keep them the same? I'm running Orcus Varuna's AB+ Low power currently. I have a decently large anemone I don't want to bleach.
Thanks in advance!
I'm currently rocking a center mounted hydra 26HD on my Reefer 250. I finally purchased a 2nd one. Should I dial down the settings when I install the second one, or just keep them the same? I'm running Orcus Varuna's AB+ Low power currently. I have a decently large anemone I don't want to bleach.
Thanks in advance!
Orcus Varuna
New member
Since you effectively doubled the light output I would set both lights at 50% acclimation for 30-60 days. Eventually though you will want to move over to the full power schedule on both lights especially with nems. I'm running my low power on a hydra52hd with 48 watts of t5ho supplements on a 50 gallon cube and get 200-300 par throughout the tank. You with 4 pucks on a 66 gallon tank running just the low power schedule will not have many locations in the tank receiving more then 150 par.
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Papermonkeys
New member
Hey,
Thanks for the pointers! Do you suggest I just switch to the high power version now? The difference was the red/green/white channels had more power right? Light came in last week but they sent the wrong mount so I should have it set up in the next day or 2.
Here is a recentish picture of the tank if it helps:
Thanks again for the profiles and the support!
Thanks for the pointers! Do you suggest I just switch to the high power version now? The difference was the red/green/white channels had more power right? Light came in last week but they sent the wrong mount so I should have it set up in the next day or 2.
Here is a recentish picture of the tank if it helps:
Thanks again for the profiles and the support!
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