McGee10
Ex FMAS board member
why so hi I thought that that was what was frying the SPS's because they were not used to having the UV
AI Hydra Settings Thread
- Thread starter hilgert
- Start date
why so hi I thought that that was what was frying the SPS's because they were not used to having the UV
McGee10
Ex FMAS board member
Thanks
Sonicboom
Addicted to salt
That will depend on your corals, take a photo of them in the morning as a baseline, and each week after that. This way you can document growth and coloration. Here is one of the articles I researched.
Wavelengths for Corals
Wavelength Color OK? Application
Below 400nm Ultraviolet to Violet △
Wavelengths below 400nm have excessive energy and can damage tissues. However, some corals produce colored pigments (blue, purple, pink) in their zooxanthellae cells for protection from the UV light.
400-500 nm Violet to Blue ○
Wavelengths between 400nm and 480nm are the most important ones for photosynthesis of the brown algae in corals.
500-600 nm Green to Yellow △
In most cases, wavelengths from 500nm to 600nm lower the efficiency of photosynthesis. But some corals may still need them.
600-680 nm Orange to Red △
Wavelengths between 600nm and 660nm are the most important ones for photosynthesis. However, they are easily absorbed by ocean water and therefore suitable for some corals only.
Above 700nm Red to Infrared ×
Wavelengths above 700nm carry to little energy and do not effectively simulate photosynthesis.
Similar to growing plants, blue and red lights are essential for coral growth. However, blue light plays a larger role as most corals live in a habitat that is deep inside the ocean, which is an area where less energetic red light is almost absorbed. Most of them rely on the penetrative blue light to survive. However, some of them can still survive with little red or even green lights. It depends on which species of corals they are.
In nature, UV rays are filtered out in deep ocean. The deeper the water, the more UV rays are filtered out of the spectrum. Since corals produce colorful pigments as a protection from the UV rays striking them, shallow water corals have more colors: More UV, more color; Less UV, less color. Again, whether UV rays are necessary or not depends on which species of corals they are.
Wavelengths for Corals
Wavelength Color OK? Application
Below 400nm Ultraviolet to Violet △
Wavelengths below 400nm have excessive energy and can damage tissues. However, some corals produce colored pigments (blue, purple, pink) in their zooxanthellae cells for protection from the UV light.
400-500 nm Violet to Blue ○
Wavelengths between 400nm and 480nm are the most important ones for photosynthesis of the brown algae in corals.
500-600 nm Green to Yellow △
In most cases, wavelengths from 500nm to 600nm lower the efficiency of photosynthesis. But some corals may still need them.
600-680 nm Orange to Red △
Wavelengths between 600nm and 660nm are the most important ones for photosynthesis. However, they are easily absorbed by ocean water and therefore suitable for some corals only.
Above 700nm Red to Infrared ×
Wavelengths above 700nm carry to little energy and do not effectively simulate photosynthesis.
Similar to growing plants, blue and red lights are essential for coral growth. However, blue light plays a larger role as most corals live in a habitat that is deep inside the ocean, which is an area where less energetic red light is almost absorbed. Most of them rely on the penetrative blue light to survive. However, some of them can still survive with little red or even green lights. It depends on which species of corals they are.
In nature, UV rays are filtered out in deep ocean. The deeper the water, the more UV rays are filtered out of the spectrum. Since corals produce colorful pigments as a protection from the UV rays striking them, shallow water corals have more colors: More UV, more color; Less UV, less color. Again, whether UV rays are necessary or not depends on which species of corals they are.
Sonicboom
Addicted to salt
You're welcome, I believe proof is in the picture.
Frag added 9/13. Notice the tiny spec starting to attach to the rock on the bottom.
Same shot taken 10/13
And my reverse superman Frag which fell between some rocks after I placed it too high in the tank and was completely Grey in color has completely overgrown the square I got it in and has encrusted on to the rock on 30 days
Frag added 9/13. Notice the tiny spec starting to attach to the rock on the bottom.
Same shot taken 10/13
And my reverse superman Frag which fell between some rocks after I placed it too high in the tank and was completely Grey in color has completely overgrown the square I got it in and has encrusted on to the rock on 30 days
gregrocks79
Less talk, more rock!
I turned my whites down to 45 too. Great thread
Twostepper4041
New member
I'm at my wits end with these lights. I've threatened numerous times to dump them and go to sols or radions. I really need some help with lighting settings. <br />
<br />
I've read all the ai hydra posts on the net, and so many have mixed settings.<br />
<br />
I have 2 hydras running on a 65 gal tall mixed reef<br />
<br />
I've lost a decent amount of sps since I've changed from my panorama pros to the hydras. <br />
<br />
Right now all my water parameters are spot on. Had 2 Lfs verify. <br />
<br />
Settings <br />
<br />
W 30<br />
V 25<br />
R 8<br />
G. 8<br />
Deep blue 90<br />
Royal 90<br />
Uv 40<br />
<br />
How can my maxima clam at the bottom be doing ok, but my zoanthids mid tank are stretching for light. My sps mid tank are not growing, browning In spots, but yet a sps toward bottom is somewhat bleached. Torch is at tip of tank, and not bleached. Flower pots at bottom of tank and thriving, acans doing good at bottom...<br />
<br />
So if all of my Zoe's have 1" stems, stretching for light, why is my maxima doing ok?<br />
<br />
If I turn my whites up, corals look translucent, and lose color...<br />
<br />
If I turn my reds and greens up, my tank gets almost a algea break out...<br />
<br />
What's gives?<br />
<br />
How can people be running everything at 100%
<br />
I've read all the ai hydra posts on the net, and so many have mixed settings.<br />
<br />
I have 2 hydras running on a 65 gal tall mixed reef<br />
<br />
I've lost a decent amount of sps since I've changed from my panorama pros to the hydras. <br />
<br />
Right now all my water parameters are spot on. Had 2 Lfs verify. <br />
<br />
Settings <br />
<br />
W 30<br />
V 25<br />
R 8<br />
G. 8<br />
Deep blue 90<br />
Royal 90<br />
Uv 40<br />
<br />
How can my maxima clam at the bottom be doing ok, but my zoanthids mid tank are stretching for light. My sps mid tank are not growing, browning In spots, but yet a sps toward bottom is somewhat bleached. Torch is at tip of tank, and not bleached. Flower pots at bottom of tank and thriving, acans doing good at bottom...<br />
<br />
So if all of my Zoe's have 1" stems, stretching for light, why is my maxima doing ok?<br />
<br />
If I turn my whites up, corals look translucent, and lose color...<br />
<br />
If I turn my reds and greens up, my tank gets almost a algea break out...<br />
<br />
What's gives?<br />
<br />
How can people be running everything at 100%
Twostepper4041
New member
Sonicboom
Addicted to salt
Your settings don't look too bad, maybe bring up the UV slowly to 75 by 1% a day? then maybe make sure your coral placement is correct. I had a small frag bleach right next to one that came back from the dead, was completely brown and sprouted beautiful green polyps and is now spreading... go figure.
McGee10
Ex FMAS board member
I think i have the same thing going on with mine.
having said that twostepper the clam can handle up to 6,000 Par so it will not get to much light and i am finding the the LED light is got "Hot spots" as well as "cold spots" that is what i think i am finding.
Twostepper4041
New member
I agree with the hot spots... Anything directly in line with the whites have no color
reef bloke
Member
How close are your lights to the water? I run mine at around 10-12 inches off the water from the bottom of the lights. The par is more even with no hot spots. I also run them quite hard at 80% white, 90% RB, 85% deep blue and 100% UV, the violet is around 50% and red and green 45%.
McGee10
Ex FMAS board member
Don't know about Twostepper but mine are 12" off the water and I still have hot spots running at 50% blues 45% whites UV 15% red& green at 12%
Twostepper4041
New member
Think im going to be cranking my uv up and violets up... And see what's happens
McGee10
Ex FMAS board member
Twostepper, how high off the water are your lights?
reef bloke
Member
Hi, most odd. I have run my apogee PAR sensor over the tank and I'm not really seeing any hot spots.
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