AI Hydra Settings Thread
- Thread starter hilgert
- Start date
Over a year of use now with 4x Hydra26 & 2xHydra52 over my 84x40x30. Very happy with the lights and the colors I'm getting.
9.13.15 FTS by E Z, on Flickr
DSC_1714 by E Z, on Flickr
Very nice what do your settings look like
Reeftub
New member
The white channel is stronger than the 2 blue channels combined. I run my whites at 85 and blues at 100. The whites put out more power at 85 than the blues together at 100. To get approximately equal output the whites would need to be at 71 and both blues at 100.
FYI - I have a spread sheet and did some basic testing to verify the sheet.
The whites are the strongest and have more diodes than any other channel, so take your time bringing them up in power.
My tank is rather white in appearance.
So your still running high numbers even with you adding a 2nd hydra 52? I can't get over 50 without losing color on my sps. I have tried to slowly raise the lights but I lose color. I am now trying 45% with the lights set to 12k on the apex which is all colors at full except I left the red and green at 75% and will see how that works out with color and growth. I would have thought you adding a 2nd light would have forced you to drop % due to double the power. What is your schedule now and how long are your lights on for that high of %?
advanwoerden
New member
Hi all - I have a Hydra 26 coming in the mail tomorrow, and wondering if it's enough for my 40 gal cube (23x23x18) with LPS and RBTA after reading this thread.
I currently have a DIY LED build: 12 Cree XPE whites and 24 XPE blues (3 watts each - 108 watts total) with 3 non-dimmable drivers. I feel like it's burning my corals even at 24" above the water, getting fading colors on my LPS...
What % should I start the hydra on, and what should I acclimate it to over what time period? Thanks!
I currently have a DIY LED build: 12 Cree XPE whites and 24 XPE blues (3 watts each - 108 watts total) with 3 non-dimmable drivers. I feel like it's burning my corals even at 24" above the water, getting fading colors on my LPS...
What % should I start the hydra on, and what should I acclimate it to over what time period? Thanks!
Sandrock.e46
New member
Bookmarking this page. Lots of great info!
zibba
New member
Thanks. My graph is below:
Lighting graph 5.7.15 by E Z, on Flickrthe .aip file (which you can use to upload the same program to the AI Director) can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3h39ljf7h8y6f6q/A.G.E. 450 (5-6-15).aip?dl=0
Teddynola
pod wrangler
Photo issues with Hydra 52s
Photo issues with Hydra 52s
When I try to take close up pics with my iphone, I get these stripes in them. I used to be able to get great macro shots with my iphone when we had mh/t5 combo. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to post a smaller pic, so I'm very sorry for the gargantuan image. Thanks for any info.
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Photo issues with Hydra 52s
When I try to take close up pics with my iphone, I get these stripes in them. I used to be able to get great macro shots with my iphone when we had mh/t5 combo. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to post a smaller pic, so I'm very sorry for the gargantuan image. Thanks for any info.
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Thanks. My graph is below:
the .aip file (which you can use to upload the same program to the AI Director) can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3h39ljf7h8y6f6q/A.G.E. 450 (5-6-15).aip?dl=0
Awesome thanks!
Johnnymott
New member
Hydra 26 Help
Hydra 26 Help
Hello to everyone. I am new to this forum. I currently have a 46 gallon bow front with a quad T5 light composed of 2 blue 460mn actinics and 2 10000k bulbs. I am making the big move to a 90 gallon this weekend (dimensions = 48"LX 24"H X 18" Depth) and purchased two new Hydra 26. It took me two hours to update the firmware! The info out there on its settings are blowing my mind!! I currently have them set up at a max of 40% for all colors with a 15 minute ramp setting and moon light with both Blues at 6%. They run 7 hours at the 40%. Any suggestions acclimating the corals and fish with the added stress of a move?
Hydra 26 Help
Hello to everyone. I am new to this forum. I currently have a 46 gallon bow front with a quad T5 light composed of 2 blue 460mn actinics and 2 10000k bulbs. I am making the big move to a 90 gallon this weekend (dimensions = 48"LX 24"H X 18" Depth) and purchased two new Hydra 26. It took me two hours to update the firmware! The info out there on its settings are blowing my mind!! I currently have them set up at a max of 40% for all colors with a 15 minute ramp setting and moon light with both Blues at 6%. They run 7 hours at the 40%. Any suggestions acclimating the corals and fish with the added stress of a move?
advanwoerden
New member
brad65ford
New member
bump
Been running a Hydra 26 over my Fusion 40g for over a month now. Finally have her running 85 percent on all channels except for white, red and green. white is maxing out at 25 percent while reds and greens are 45. Most everyone says start out at 40 percent and bump up though you are already running LED's you might be about to start higher. Really depends on how your corals react. I was running a a160 at 100 percent the whole 9 hours before the switch over to hydra's and the hydra's were still a shock to the corals. You can always do the acclimation setting as well this does work well and give you a way to see if the corals don't like the increase.
advanwoerden
New member
Thanks! I did the timer (easy) setup and have similar settings except UV is low - I noticed most people keep UV around 10%. I am running from 10am-10pm with 2hr ramp. Does that sound about right?
One thing I didn't understand was the favor white/blue, and the transition left to right/right to left/uniform. Anyone have any guidance there?
One thing I didn't understand was the favor white/blue, and the transition left to right/right to left/uniform. Anyone have any guidance there?
brad65ford
New member
Not sure why everyone lowers their UV, again coming from the Kessil it had UV built in to it from what they say so it was max too. As Wazzel said above its the whites that are nasty powerful imo. Don't want to tell you to do anything since i don't want to damage any of your live stock but UV is just a wave length that the corals like, again mine are all equal since I plan to get them all to 100 except for white and red.
Also 10 to 10 and 2 hour ramp is fine, i don't even curve anymore once its ramps it stays solid numbers across the board then ramp 2 hours before night time. So far all my lps's and montis are loving it! Color isn't IMO the best though, I enjoyed the color of the Kessil over the Hydra but these Hydra's have a little magic in mine imo for great coral growth over other fixtures... but you didn't hear that from me
Wazzel
New member
One year of growth, August 2014 (month 3) to August 2015 (month 15)
Pics from another thread..
I run much higher levels than most and 2 fixtures where the manufacture recommends 1. Specifically concerning UV I run that
0-60, 2 hr ramp
60-90 3 hr ramp
90 4 hr
90-60 3 hr ramp
60-0 2 hr ramp
Recently I have dropped the white from 90 to 80. I wanted a little more blue hue in the color and I have 1 piece I feel should be a little darker. It happens to be the tort that sits on the top of the rock pile. Going to see how that light profile works. I run the whites 0-40-80-40-0, same time as the other colors.
brad65ford
New member
Nice work Wazzel, here is my first schedule a month ago and also my current schedule, plan to increase the first 4 channels to 100 with in the next few weeks. Very impressed at to the coral reactions and response from these fixtures.
Regarding the white channel, I've seen first hand of local professional coral seller who run his white channels for 2 hours only at max of 30 percent with absolutely amazing results not just color but growth! According to him, the other blue/uv/pink are pretty much all you need to have good color and good growth. Normally any one would disagree though I was amazing at his results and I've been just about everyone and seen tons of successful tanks all around.
Regarding the white channel, I've seen first hand of local professional coral seller who run his white channels for 2 hours only at max of 30 percent with absolutely amazing results not just color but growth! According to him, the other blue/uv/pink are pretty much all you need to have good color and good growth. Normally any one would disagree though I was amazing at his results and I've been just about everyone and seen tons of successful tanks all around.
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Wazzel
New member
I guess it would depend on the specific set up. Since colored LEDs produce narrow bands of light I would be concerned with not running a broad spectrum white to fill in the gaps.
Here is a little study I did last year, you may find helpful.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2467729
brad65ford
New member
Quickly looking over your thread I admittedly didn't want to focus on your data since its based off par which we really can not use for led's its a data number in which can not be shared between fixtures and setups for different systems since it would be a standard recipe for success. There was a study based on just blue led's (forget which wave length) that grow coral similar in growth as full spectrum etc... I personally believe white is important but mostly for human visual viewing. Would be interesting to see your coral color different if you dropped your white intensity or duration on your system.
Wazzel
New member
You are just going to have to wish on that. I have been happy with how my tank is running and have no plans to make any kind of drastic changes. Not going to risk rocking the boat.
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