AI Hydra Settings Thread

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Did a WC and moved the monti up nearer the WL but still need to go get some dry rock(hoping to minimize a cycle) and do a little more re-arranging. My nems looked exactly like the pics here, bubbled nicely and great color when they were in the middle third of the Biocube so I'll move them up a little too. However, one of them did move down on the sandbed when I had more par...does that mean he needed less, consensus of opinion as to par levels for the RBTA???

The standard AI position for the lights is around 11" AWL so I downloaded the 12" profile and it is on now. We shall see.
 
I have another question and don't know if I should look for this on another thread, but it has to do with lighting IMHO.

I had Rics that were always puffed up to the size of dinner plates...almost:lol2: and they are unhappy too.

I feed my fish once a day and minute amts...1/4 to 1/2 cube of mysis or a couple finger pinches of flake or pellet. I don't have a phos test but the cyano is rampant. I also attribute this to the new lighting. Your take?

I run ChemiPureBlue and Phosgard and am using the standard foam blocks that come with RSM, but I used to do floss pads cut to fit my intank basket and changed them every 3 to 4 days, WC every 2 wks in the Biocube. I felt more confident in that than the foam. I dose N3N4 or Fusion 2 part every other day. The skimmer in this new tank is dynamite!

And then I'll leave you alone.
 
If they are Florida Ricordea, phosphate has always seemed to believe mine the most. If you have cyano then the higher nutrients/ phosphate could be the issue. Some foods, particularly frozen have been said to contain a good amount of phosphate and recommend full thawing and possible rinse before adding. Personally I'd switch from the chemipure amd and phosguard to a good carbon and GFO in separate reactors or media compartments.

If the setup is fairly new, even with cycled sand and rock from BC it will probably take it a good bit to settle/ cycle and establish good bacteria base. If the old sand was moved into the new tank there would be a good bit of die off from the sand alone.

If they're Ricordea Yuma, I'm no help. No matter what size tank or lighting I've had over the last 10+ years, Yumas won't hardly survive much less thrive. There is a forum specifically for Corallimopharians (mushroom coral).

Good Luck.
 
takoon said:
Hello guys

First, thanks for the schedule :-) ,I find to move all the schedule on phone or tablets just put 2 fingers like zoom and move right or left all the schedule move ;-)
Click to expand...



Of course ecotech would add this function to the app and not tell anyone. I've even emailed and asked them before myself [emoji23]


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KAKLANGLEY said:
If they are Florida Ricordea, phosphate has always seemed to believe mine the most. If you have cyano then the higher nutrients/ phosphate could be the issue. Some foods, particularly frozen have been said to contain a good amount of phosphate and recommend full thawing and possible rinse before adding. Personally I'd switch from the chemipure amd and phosguard to a good carbon and GFO in separate reactors or media compartments.

If the setup is fairly new, even with cycled sand and rock from BC it will probably take it a good bit to settle/ cycle and establish good bacteria base. If the old sand was moved into the new tank there would be a good bit of die off from the sand alone.

If they're Ricordea Yuma, I'm no help. No matter what size tank or lighting I've had over the last 10+ years, Yumas won't hardly survive much less thrive. There is a forum specifically for Corallimopharians (mushroom coral).

Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Brand new live sand, and it was Xmas it was set up. I used the carbon that came with the tank until 3 days ago when I took it out and put in the Chemipure on recommendation for my tangs which tend to get lateral line and many think it is because of the carbon. I don't know what to think about the cyano, it is now a floating mat over the sand bed. Trying to remove as much as I can today with siphon. Now following Orcus's lighting profile for the AIs, hopefully this will help.
 
Splashyfishy said:
Did a WC and moved the monti up nearer the WL but still need to go get some dry rock(hoping to minimize a cycle) and do a little more re-arranging. My nems looked exactly like the pics here, bubbled nicely and great color when they were in the middle third of the Biocube so I'll move them up a little too. However, one of them did move down on the sandbed when I had more par...does that mean he needed less, consensus of opinion as to par levels for the RBTA???



The standard AI position for the lights is around 11" AWL so I downloaded the 12" profile and it is on now. We shall see.
Click to expand...



BTA's will move at will if they are unhappy with a particular condition. My experience is they prefer to be annihilated with clam and sps level PAR but often do just fine in less PAR. Also, they take about 2-3 months to fully adjust to significant lighting changes :)

Just set up a kitchen softie and nem tank the other day!

984d379ecb6dd756befb1b011ecb2fce.jpg




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Splashyfishy said:
I have another question and don't know if I should look for this on another thread, but it has to do with lighting IMHO.



I had Rics that were always puffed up to the size of dinner plates...almost:lol2: and they are unhappy too.



I feed my fish once a day and minute amts...1/4 to 1/2 cube of mysis or a couple finger pinches of flake or pellet. I don't have a phos test but the cyano is rampant. I also attribute this to the new lighting. Your take?



I run ChemiPureBlue and Phosgard and am using the standard foam blocks that come with RSM, but I used to do floss pads cut to fit my intank basket and changed them every 3 to 4 days, WC every 2 wks in the Biocube. I felt more confident in that than the foam. I dose N3N4 or Fusion 2 part every other day. The skimmer in this new tank is dynamite!



And then I'll leave you alone.
Click to expand...



I would say you have a combo phosphate issue along with a lack of nitrate but would need testing to confirm. Cyano becomes dominant when phosphate is present but nitrate is not. The reason for this is cyano can fix nitrogen directly from undisolved nitrogen gas in your tank water.

My reccomendation if your nitrate is zero would be to feed a quality frozen food (pe mysis, pe calinus or lrs reef frenzy to name a few) daily a pretty liberal amount and run the reccomended amount of phosguard changed out every 3 days until the cyano begins to decrease. Also I would cease water changes until the cyano disappears to allow your system to develop some nitrates. Once you equilibrize phosphate and nitrate everything should begin to look much better. Until that point is reached no lighting is going to make much of a difference.


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O and the reason your corals don't look good is they can not fix nitrogen and are being starved of a vital nutrient in nitrate :)


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Orcus, my lfs guy agrees with you, he says my tank is "too clean"

I am always so concerned about having nitrates. Didn't realize how important it was to have a little.

That being said, I think I already notice a change in the corals, the birdsnest is trying to open the green tips better, the nems have gone from dark purple back into their rosey hue, still not open yet and one of them is still hiding in the back, but I see a glimmer of hope if they have responded so soon. They looked exactly like your photo above until I transferred them:sad2: Even the monti is looking more green now.

So thanks so much for all your help, the cyano is staring to respond to my Chemiclean campaigne, most has turned brown and is greatly diminished. And I am going to follow all the advice to relax my cleaning routine. Also ordered another big bunch of sand sifters, Ceriths, Nassarius etc. And a couple brittle stars. My old tanks rocks were full of stars until I moved them to the new tank and then they just disappeared, so the die off from those may have initiated some of the cyano.
 
Splashyfishy said:
Orcus, my lfs guy agrees with you, he says my tank is "too clean"



I am always so concerned about having nitrates. Didn't realize how important it was to have a little.



That being said, I think I already notice a change in the corals, the birdsnest is trying to open the green tips better, the nems have gone from dark purple back into their rosey hue, still not open yet and one of them is still hiding in the back, but I see a glimmer of hope if they have responded so soon. They looked exactly like your photo above until I transferred them:sad2: Even the monti is looking more green now.



So thanks so much for all your help, the cyano is staring to respond to my Chemiclean campaigne, most has turned brown and is greatly diminished. And I am going to follow all the advice to relax my cleaning routine. Also ordered another big bunch of sand sifters, Ceriths, Nassarius etc. And a couple brittle stars. My old tanks rocks were full of stars until I moved them to the new tank and then they just disappeared, so the die off from those may have initiated some of the cyano.
Click to expand...



No problem! Nutrients are always a battle but I have found that if you maintain regular water changes, feed reasonably and use something to remove phosphate the tank generally responds. As for controlling nitrate I typically find running marinepure big blocks along with waterchanges is perfect to keep it <10 but greater then zero. If not I usually go back to using a mild form carbon dosing such as prodibio bio clean with a tiny amount of biopellets (typically 1/3 to 1/2 the reccomended amount) and add pellets as necessary. Sorry for rambling but I hope this helps!


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So I have 2 Hydra 26 HD's that are about 10" above the water line.... is that high enough..?? I am looking for a GOOD light set up... I have all LPS and SOFTIE... not really planning on any SPS for this tank... but could have a couple... Anyone have something that will be a good color mix..?? I have been having brown algae issues with the lights.. I run now UV/VIOLET @ 25%.. Blue/Royal @ 80%.. Red/Green @ 5% and Cool White @ 20%. 2hr ramp up starting at 10am and last bulb goes out at 10pm. I assume that 10" off the water line is high enough.... I have had these up since end of Oct and have been trying to find something with good color and good growth but not the brown algae... Tank has been running since mid October 2016. ANY HELP would be very much appreciated!
 
samherston073 said:
So I have 2 Hydra 26 HD's that are about 10" above the water line.... is that high enough..?? I am looking for a GOOD light set up... I have all LPS and SOFTIE... not really planning on any SPS for this tank... but could have a couple... Anyone have something that will be a good color mix..?? I have been having brown algae issues with the lights.. I run now UV/VIOLET @ 25%.. Blue/Royal @ 80%.. Red/Green @ 5% and Cool White @ 20%. 2hr ramp up starting at 10am and last bulb goes out at 10pm. I assume that 10" off the water line is high enough.... I have had these up since end of Oct and have been trying to find something with good color and good growth but not the brown algae... Tank has been running since mid October 2016. ANY HELP would be very much appreciated!
Click to expand...



10" is fine you can give my 12" AWL profile a whirl and see if you like it. It is posted multiple times in the past 20 pages. Many of us have had great success with this schedule for soft, lps, sps, anemones, clams etc. Also, as a side note no lighting schedule is going to help with the uglies experienced by new systems. Tank age, manual removal, proper feeding and sticking to 10-20% weekly or bi-weekly water changes will solve your algae issues better then anything else. Hope this helps :)


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Thanks Orcus Varuna.... I have located it and loaded it to my lights and am currently running it... so far I really like it... so we shall see... I was afraid that my algae was from the wrong light set ups causing it... the tank was started Oct 15th 2016... everything seems happy and the skimmer isnt pulling a lot out of now... But I am gonna switch to Fritz salt and start doing weekly water changes!! THANKS for your help!!
 
samherston073 said:
Thanks Orcus Varuna.... I have located it and loaded it to my lights and am currently running it... so far I really like it... so we shall see... I was afraid that my algae was from the wrong light set ups causing it... the tank was started Oct 15th 2016... everything seems happy and the skimmer isnt pulling a lot out of now... But I am gonna switch to Fritz salt and start doing weekly water changes!! THANKS for your help!!
Click to expand...



Keep these settings for 8 weeks. Don't make any changes. You will like it. I can vouch for it.


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