Algae not leaving -- pictures

M

Mappelbaum37

New member
I have taken all the steps needed to get rid of algae. I just realized that I'm getting red slime again. I now have hair algae, cyano, and diatoms. I changed the tank in early January and started getting red slime in late january. Since then I have been getting diatoms and hair algae. I am down to a few conclusions. If I remember correctly red slime or cyano bacteria meant there are excess nutrients in the water.

*The tank change was removing crushed coral substrate for 40 lbs of non live sand and 20 lbs of live sand. Also added 20 lbs of rock. Now have 100 lbs.

1) I am using RO water now. I need to get a TDS meter and test for TDS'. I am planning on getting an RO/DI unit.

2) chaeto/macro algae. I had chaeto in the in-tank fuge and it didnt really do anything. It was a small amount, but I think I might just get a new batch when available and try and let that help out with nutrients.

I'm thinking I'm still cycling bec. last week I tested ammonia and it was .25 It has been .25 since january. If the tank is still cycling, this is one hell of a long cycle.

Am I missing anything?

phosban reactor running for approx. 2 months
switched from carbon to chemi-pure in fluval 405
clean fluval more frequently (only runs chemi-pure and sponges
switched from spring to RO water about 3 months ago.
switched from 5 to 10 gallon water changes.
upgraded from prism skimmer to octo bh 300f
increased flow
added to clean up crew
shortened light cycle ( 6 hrs of daylight)

Was thinking of getting an extra filter sock for fluval to help detritus.

Thanks

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What all do you have in the tank -- fish / bio load wise.

What are your other parameters? And as you stated, you need a TDS meter.

But, all that algae indicates that you have excess nutrients in the tank fueling the algae. What and how often do you feed?
 
I'm battling about 5 kinds of algae, and after all the improvements in water quality/ fitration, etc. which didn't help, what did help was a foxface. that fish is constantly picking at the green hair algae and now that it's mostly gone is picking at the other types of algae. Consider adding a foxface and a bunch of blue leg hermits if you haven't been able to rid the algae using other means.
 
The foxface will help as with a long spine urchine but this wont cure the cause and after time will not controll alone. Algea was present and ready to take over so the key is control.In a reef tank its all about the coral and fish are like the CUC.Foxface good addition and great tool but alone isnt enough.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12588336#post12588336 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CookieJar
I'm battling about 5 kinds of algae, and after all the improvements in water quality/ fitration, etc. which didn't help, what did help was a foxface. that fish is constantly picking at the green hair algae and now that it's mostly gone is picking at the other types of algae. Consider adding a foxface and a bunch of blue leg hermits if you haven't been able to rid the algae using other means.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

fish I have right now:
- 2 occelaris clowns
- bangaii cardinal
- coral beauty
- powder brown tang
-yellow tang
- flame hawk
- 6 line wrasse

As far as the fish go, I'm returning the hawk bec. I want to start getting some shrimp once I rid the tank of this algae. I just recently added the powder brown (pretty small) and the yellow tang hasn't been lookin too hot since then. He eats but is lookin really skinny. This is what happened with a mimic tang I had last year. Unfortunately, I'm sadly expecting a death sooner or later. What I'm getting at, is probably I will be from 8 fish to 6 fish pretty soon.

I feed once a day, flakes one day, frozen mysis shrimp or a mixture pack of frozen food the other day. (about 1/4 of a cube) give or take.

As for the foxface, I heard they're great algae eaters, but I'm going to hold off on a new fish for a while. Whenever I seem to add a new fish, it always messes up the balance of things.

Livestock wise, I'm lookin to get some more snails, hermits, and some algae eating nudibranch though.

Powerheads:

koralia #3
maxi jet 1200 w/ quick filter

Now everyone tells me this isn't enough, but the corals were getting a good amount of flow with less current. Now I added more flow, and they're really getting a good current. If I added anymore current, the corals wouldnt be happy. Besides, with the way its setup, I see the current pushing the algae on the rocks on the bottom of the tank, so it cant be too weak of a flow.

I forgot to mention:

- I do the lights out method for a day or 2 before I do a water change.
- and I replaced the light bulbs in the lighting fixture

Everything is 0 or atleast undetectable due to algae other then ammonia which is .25

Like I said, it doesnt make a whole lot of sense. I didn't know a cycle could last so long!
 
When I test for TDS, does a high TDS reading indicate there are a good amount of nutrients in the water, or are they 2 in seperate categories?
Also, can I test the saltwater in the tank for TDS, or only the RO water before I mix the salt in?

Thank you
 
Well your lacking flow and overstocked which leads to overfeeding and excess waste.
Im sorry but you say you have been told your flow was off and you just ignored because some coral look fine. Do you know what a double negitive is?

You have multiple problems. A reef tank means you want coral.So then less fish means easier water care and better coral growth. You use fish like a CUC and MB 1 or 2 for eye candy as long as there all compatiple for your setup.
Whether you have a FO tank or reef tank you need to reduce amount of fish and many of there type. Cant have both worlds.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12588940#post12588940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mappelbaum37
When I test for TDS, does a high TDS reading indicate there are a good amount of nutrients in the water, or are they 2 in seperate categories?
Also, can I test the saltwater in the tank for TDS, or only the RO water before I mix the salt in?

Thank you
Click to expand...

It is a good indication that if you TDS is high ( above 5 ) that it is a contributing factor to this.

And yes, only test the RO/DI water, seawater would be off the charts.
 
I know what you mean. This tank was originally meant for fish only. Then I figured I would throw in a coral or 2 and see how it went. Obviously, I became addicted with the corals and got into them.

Less fish=better water quality=less algae. I get that. But would having a few or no fish honestly make the tank algae free? The whole reason I invested in a new skimmer was because I realized that I was overstocked and I tried making the best of the situation. And as said above, 1 fish is definately going, and the other might be on his way out due to his health. I would furthermore be left with 6 fish, and 4 out of the 6 don't exceed 3". How much waste can possibly be produced in this situation?
 
No removeing some fish will help but not sure.You need better flow and proper water source and good tank maintance habits with feeding habits.
 
I think I have a handle on overfeeding and tank maintenance. I think those jobs aren't handled too bad. I want to check out the water source. I have a feeling it'll be bad. As for flow, I can try adding some. I have an extra MJ and koralia laying around somewhere.

Toddrtex:

http://melevsreef.com/ro_di.html
If you scroll down he's selling tds meters


Thats what I was looking at. You think theres any difference? I would be glad to go with the one you showed me.
 
Adding another powerhead is easy and can help.But controlling feeding with so many fish is impossible.You can feed them the right amount but there waste will be to much.
 
Im sorry as i mean no diss respect but this thread like many other. I think your looking for the correct response and letting all good advice slip by.
 
Proper amount of feeding is just enough for the fish to eat for about 30sec's... if their eatting food any longer than that, your over feeding.
 
TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) measurement is used to determine the quality of your RO/DI water. Ideally, you would produce 0 TDS water... pure water. Normally, an RO membrane will reject around 98% of the dissolved solids from the water source, so normal output from an RO filter is usually 1-10 TDS, depending on the quality of your source water. The DI stage then removes the extra few TDS. So, a TDS meter is a valuable tool in determining the health of your future saltwater.
 
non-taken, but how am I letting it slip by? I like to question some things to here some awnsers, but I dont let it slip by. I'm not just going to start scooping fish out of the tank and giving em to the store due to algae. I have cut back on feeding a lot, but due to the yellow tang looking very skinny, and not to healthy, lately, its been hard not to overfeed. Your only other advice other then saying I have too many fish which I know, was to increase flow. And as I said above, I will try it out. I have a spare koralia and a spare MJ.
 
I'd say the food is gone in a good 30 to 45 seconds angelo. I will try my best to cut back even with the tang looking like this. But not to mention, I started cutting back on feeding a while ago when I first got the algae, and I have seen little to no effect since then. But, it's not like I have anything better to do for now.

csb- I will order the TDS meter tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.

I think I'm gonna hit the sack now everyone.

Thanks for your time and responses. I'll speak to you guys tomorrow.
 
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