Algae Scrubber Basics

Got the scrubber installed on the new system this weekend. God Bless Plastic Canvas!! It has so many uses...

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Drain system

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Plastic canvas used here twice, one section stuffed in the bottom tee (you can kind of see it, pointing toward the back of the sump) and then a piece wrapped into a cylinder around the drain, which does a mighty excellent job of stopping bubbles

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Wrapped the pump in plastic canvas also, which prevents anything from getting to the intake (this is in addition to the intake strainer)

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I cut a new slot tube on my table saw, which works very well I might add (my first time trying that). I had to do several test cuts, and discovered that it's not quick and easy, you have to keep the pipe from rotating as you push it along the saw blade. The slot I cut here wasn't exactly perfect, but very close and I called it good. New slot is 14.5" long (versus 20" before). I trimmed the screen sections down.

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Shot of the drains, which are running full (no air sucking through them) but are completely silent

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and the system with the light covers installed.

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There is still some light the bleeds out the ends, I left those open for ventilation of the lamps, but they don't seem to get very warm at all so I might make some end covers one of these days. Good enough for now!
 
Floyd, that looks awesome! Very professional job.

Here are some progressive shots of the first 3 weeks of my scrubber screen. This past week, I switched the lighting to a 3-on, 1-off cycle because it looked like the eshine LEDs were burning the algae a bit. Probably too much experimentation with the different light cycle and the LEDs, but we'll see - I like trying new things!

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Of note, I think the slots in my PVC are too narrow. Only about 1/8 of an inch. Going to widen it to 1/4" tomorrow.

Also, there's a lot of suspended detritus...thinking about running filter floss, but would that eliminate a lot of the benefits of the scrubber?
 
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welp I got around to measuring the flow from my skimmer, which is powered by a mag 9.5. I was looking at a 18" wide screen or about 650 gph which i figured I had close to that from the skimmer.

Dead wrong. Turned out after the injector and the skimmer, it was less then 200gph. So that idea was out.

I then decided to just recombine all my main display drains, and my frag tanks drains into one, and use that. Its all run off a 1740 gph pressure pump.

I got the whole thing together and cut a crappy slot thats too short, but since i ran out of pipe i just set it up with 2 8" wide screens(didnt find one long enough). But its up and working now. Ill make a new slot pipe in a day or two.
 
parrotchute: unless you are pushing over 35 GPH/in, 1/8" should be plenty. The slot I just cut on the table saw is 1/8". 1/4" would be able to handle upwards of 100+ GPH/in of flow, so if you're lower than that, you'll end up with all the flow on the first couple inches of the screen.

If you think your slot is too tight, widen it a little at a time.
 
Got the scrubber installed on the new system this weekend. God Bless Plastic Canvas!! It has so many uses...

Drain system

DSC03632.jpg


Plastic canvas used here twice, one section stuffed in the bottom tee (you can kind of see it, pointing toward the back of the sump) and then a piece wrapped into a cylinder around the drain, which does a mighty excellent job of stopping bubbles

DSC03646.jpg


Shot of the drains, which are running full (no air sucking through them) but are completely silent

So Floyd, how did you get silent drains?
You use 1.5" pvc? No bulkheads, just sealed both pipes flush to interior box bottom? How many GPH going through the scrubber? No airvents/hose? Is that bottom tee a key element/what's its purpose? How deep into the sump does the water exit the drain, barely submerged?
 
The 'drains' from the inner box are 1" PVC, about 1/2"-3/4" long only. Then the lower system is just held on to the bottom of the outer box with zip-ties, and is 1.5" PVC, so there's an air gap. Here's the lower drain pipe

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I cut down the 90 and tee to fit flush, there is no seal between it and the inner box. The scrubber runs on a Mag5 via 1" PVC at just over 12" of head so I figure it gets about 400-450 GPH. I can't see what's happening inside the 1.5" pipe, but I'm pretty sure it gets full or close to it, as occasionally water drips over the edge.

The sump rim is 11.5" above the bottom, measured from the inside, and it operates at about 5-6" depth, so the bottom tee is just under the waterline, I didn't plan it this way, that's just how it worked out and it worked out well.
 
parrotchute: unless you are pushing over 35 GPH/in, 1/8" should be plenty. The slot I just cut on the table saw is 1/8". 1/4" would be able to handle upwards of 100+ GPH/in of flow, so if you're lower than that, you'll end up with all the flow on the first couple inches of the screen.

If you think your slot is too tight, widen it a little at a time.

Thanks Floyd. Too late, just drilled it, damn!

I'm guilty in not measuring my flow in GPH - but I'm guessing it will be lower than that (mag7) over about 12". Guess I'll just keep using my old pipe that's drilled 1/8"!

This week I started getting some spraying at the slot - I'm going to have to make a light blocker for the top 1/2" to prevent that.

I've been using a plastic putty scraper to clean off the algae every week, but I'm not 100% if I'm cleaning it "right". I'd love to see a photo of a developed scrubber post-cleaning if anyone has one...
 
Floyd, that looks awesome! Very professional job.

Here are some progressive shots of the first 3 weeks of my scrubber screen. This past week, I switched the lighting to a 3-on, 1-off cycle because it looked like the eshine LEDs were burning the algae a bit. Probably too much experimentation with the different light cycle and the LEDs, but we'll see - I like trying new things!

63ca1a3d.jpg

e74776a0.jpg

c7fc2033.jpg

did you "rough" up your screen? It looks a little too smooth in the pictures.
 
I think it's roughed up pretty good - I took a hole saw to it for a while, and the plastic LOOKED a lot like velcro hooks, but it didn't FEEL spikey.
 
The 'drains' from the inner box are 1" PVC, about 1/2"-3/4" long only. Then the lower system is just held on to the bottom of the outer box with zip-ties, and is 1.5" PVC, so there's an air gap. Here's the lower drain pipe

DSC03596.jpg


I cut down the 90 and tee to fit flush, there is no seal between it and the inner box. The scrubber runs on a Mag5 via 1" PVC at just over 12" of head so I figure it gets about 400-450 GPH. I can't see what's happening inside the 1.5" pipe, but I'm pretty sure it gets full or close to it, as occasionally water drips over the edge.

You figure the elbows & tees are necessary to slow the flow or something, or would it work to just run the 1.5" pipes straight down on each end of the box?
I'm going to setup up dual scrubbers over a sump like yours. I am confident with my design except for the drains out of the box. Noise & bubbles have been an issue with every build I've done so far.
 
I wanted all the effluent from the scrubber to be directed to the far end of the sump and into a bubble trap area. It would be feasible to do away with the horizontal pipe in between. For this setup, one of the drains would end up right in the middle of a high flow up/down area, so that would not be very good.

I think the key to the 'silent drain' is exactly what I have done here: make the drain flush on the inside of the box, and poke out only far enough to prevent the drain water from creeping along the bottom of the box (if this even matters to you), then have that drain into a larger diameter pipe without a hard connection between the two, prevent the flow from exiting at the bottom of the pipe at full force by making it extend to the bottom of the sump and then place foam under it, and provide a horizontal flow exit via a tee, then surround that with plastic canvas. I should have taken pics of how I put it all together, it worked out really well. I can mock something up and take a few pics, or just take a few pics during the first cleaning.
 
Could someone please answer a question that came up in one of the newbe forums? If live rock is leaching phosphates, could an ATS be implemented while keeping the rock in the dark? Would nitrates become the limiting factor before the phosphates petered out? Could this method be utilized when curing freshly harvested and shipped live rock? Can I be pointed to any reading on examples?
 
UGH! I went to turn off my ATS lights last night so that my Brother-in-law and sis-in-law could sleep in that room, without the blinding lights coming on randomly, when I realized that somehow they had gotten turned off. I use a digital timed power strip and I think my 9 month old son accidentally turned them off. He was in that room with me while I was on the computer and I had to watch him so he wouldn't play with it. But I guess he got to it when I wasn't watching. Yes, It is now put where he can not get to it.
 
I think the key to the 'silent drain' is exactly what I have done here: make the drain flush on the inside of the box, and poke out only far enough to prevent the drain water from creeping along the bottom of the box (if this even matters to you), then have that drain into a larger diameter pipe without a hard connection between the two, prevent the flow from exiting at the bottom of the pipe at full force by making it extend to the bottom of the sump and then place foam under it, and provide a horizontal flow exit via a tee, then surround that with plastic canvas. I should have taken pics of how I put it all together, it worked out really well. I can mock something up and take a few pics, or just take a few pics during the first cleaning.

I understand from the pics & info you've already provided, thank you very much.
The advantage of a closed bottom with the drain system is that water can get trapped to encourage 3D growth?
One option I was considering, but have never used personally, is an open bottom with longer screen into the sump. Would be silent? Would water drip off the acrylic panels and make noise if they weren't also submerged at the bottoms? Microbubbles? What are the downsides?
Is 3D growth much more efficient to deal with the whole closed box/drain thing?
 
Could I create a really simple ats by using a piece of acrylic and just having the water flow on it into my refugium? It would only be one sided but it wouldn't be as complicated to build.
 
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