srusso
Active member
No, this thread is just 3,000 plus posts of crap... In fact please don't build one, no one can read the thread for you. At least no one cares too...
Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
No, this thread is just 3,000 plus posts of crap... In fact please don't build one, no one can read the thread for you. At least no one cares too...
srusso
Active member
Ok here is the new design 10.5 inches wide by 15 inches long. about 400gph. the growth is about 3.5weeks from the other style
Any suggestions?
I have always had problems with spray in an open design. Not enough to make any real issue, but enough to make a small mess over time. The biggest issue for open designed algae scrubbers. Recently someone posted that they used plastic rap to address the issue. I did the same this past weekend. Looks like I will be using it going forward, works well.
Ps. I am on my phone typing this, I would look back at who did post this idea, but I can't ATM...
TheFishMan65
New member
Der_wille_zur_macht had the plastic wrap idea.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I'm revamping the basics....should have them posted to my blog page by the end of the week!
srusso
Active member
Thank you!
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
I'm not sure how to address this problem in a thread based forum, but it was worth calling attention to. Thanks.
The proper way, imho, to address such problems is to associate a Wiki page with the forum/thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2070143
But that requires substantial effort from the admins to setup.
Yeah it would, we don't have a wiki yet though :lol:. Though, from things I've heard from the higher ups it is planned for some point - just no "when" yet. There are some pretty important non-related tech things to get accomplished first.
Thanks for listening. Rome wasn't built in a day, but having you guys looking at things like terahz's suggestion will keep the community improving.
Thanks.
Well i have to say this thread is amazing. I can see one reason why I was not getting the thick hair algae growth. My screen was 24 x 24 light on both sides but I am only feeding 4 cubes and maybe a table spoon of pellets on my 210. Under the new guidlines this is way to big of a screen if I am right? Please let me know as I am in the process of building a proper ATS with led. I am thinking of a screen 6 x 20 long lite on both sides be fine for me.
Also I have a friend that has an ATS and he is having an issue with flow. He thinks I am crazy when I tell him he needs to up his flow. His screen is 10 wide and he is driving it with a maxi 1200 going up a foot, then an 90 degree elbow. He states he has to turn it down with a ball value or the water just pushes all to the end and most of his screen doesn't get water flowing down it. I suggested he wided the slot. Can you help?
Thanks
Also I have a friend that has an ATS and he is having an issue with flow. He thinks I am crazy when I tell him he needs to up his flow. His screen is 10 wide and he is driving it with a maxi 1200 going up a foot, then an 90 degree elbow. He states he has to turn it down with a ball value or the water just pushes all to the end and most of his screen doesn't get water flowing down it. I suggested he wided the slot. Can you help?
Thanks
srusso
Active member
Screen is too large, definitely go with LED. New plans and design are slated to be released at the end of March. Maybe worth waiting to build your next...
As for your friend, you got the right answer... He needs more flow...
perpetual98
New member
I'm using a MJ1200 with about the same head and elbow setup as your friend on a 1/8" wide by 7" slot and it seems about perfect. I've only had my ATS running for 3 weeks or so and I'm amazed at how quickly and thick I have GHA growing on it. Makes me wonder how out of whack my tank was.
I just set the tank up before Thanksgiving but I used rock that I had sitting dry for a few years that had some GHA problems before I ripped an old tank apart. The stuff just goes dormant and comes back with a vengeance when it can.
I just set the tank up before Thanksgiving but I used rock that I had sitting dry for a few years that had some GHA problems before I ripped an old tank apart. The stuff just goes dormant and comes back with a vengeance when it can.
percula99
New member
I am Trueperc's friend. I did some maintenance on my ATS yersterday. I scraped the algae off it so right now it is pretty clean. I also replaced the Maxi-Jet 1200 with a Red Sea Berlin pump I had laying around. This link shows it to be a 525 GPH pump. http://www.aquariumguys.com/berlinpump.html
This video shows the problem I am having.The water goes up a 12 inch pipe and makes a 90 degree turn before flowing through the horizontal pipe and waterfalling over the screen. You can't really see the water flowing over the screen but you can clearly see the water overflowing the end of the pipe. The result is a loud waterfall noise I would like to get rid of. Trueperc thinks widening the slot the screen sits in would help. It is already about 3/8 inch wide. I even tried the plastic wrap idea but it doesn't seem to be working for me. Any opinions from the experts would be appreciated. By the way my screen is about 13 X13 and I feed two cubes a day plus a sheet and a half of Nori.
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid30.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc346%2Fpercula99%2FMVI_2462.mp4">
JohnnyB in SD
New member
Appears to be a problem with your slot pipe. Is the slot even, or tight except the end where the water is gushing out? 3/8" is definitely too wide. Slot needs to be even and snug to the screen, so that the screen almost stays in the slot without water flowing if you don't have ties to hold it.
Would it be possible to get a straight on pic of the slot, with the pipe removed from the ATS?
Would it be possible to get a straight on pic of the slot, with the pipe removed from the ATS?
srusso
Active member
When I started this thread I knew it would get a lot of attention. I asked a mod to please consider creating a new special interest sub-forum for algae scrubbers. At the time, the mods didn't see it as a change they where willing to make. (In actually it may have helped get more exporsure to the thread) Now that we have tons of views and posts, it has gone well beyond "unmanageable" for us to cleanly have high level consersations and help new comers as well. Having two stickies helps a little, it's broken into "basics" and "advanced"... Creating a sub forum would help gather all of the algae scrubber posts together, as well as allow us to begain having specific threads stickied about topics people repeat questions on...
Maybe a special interest sub forum is possible now? A wiki would be nice but its not what I believe we actually need for this group...
JohnnyB in SD
New member
A good slot is key to even flow over the screen
Note slot in second pic.
Note slot in second pic.
Algae Scrubber Build Basics Summary
The Slot Pipe, Screen, and Fasteners
If you're doing a pump fed scrubber, either top of tank or sump, try to match the size of the slot pipe and other PVC components to the recommendations from the pump manufacturer, and if in doubt, err on the side of larger pipe. Larger pipe puts less head pressure on the pump, which will increase the flow rate.
Cutting the Slot
The width of the slot should be approximately 1/8" wide, the same length as the screen which you are using (as exact as possible), and as straight as possible. Cutting a straight, even width slot is arguably the most difficult part of building a scrubber. It is also one of the most important steps. If the slot is crooked, the screen may not hang properly, and there may be areas where the flow is lighter and heavier. This can result in sections of weak growth.
However you go about this, you might need a few tries to get good at it. PVC is cheap, so practice on a small section so you get used to how this is done. It's going to take a little time and patience "“ don't rush it. Mark the slot, and cut carefully. If you mess up, do it again. Once you solvent weld an end cap and a union to it, it is not as cheap to replace (but still relatively cheap).
Doing it right means using a power tool. Probably the most common tool for this use is a rotary tool, or a Dremel, using a cutoff wheel:
Very recently, someone reported great success by using an oscillating tool. So if you're looking for a reason to add another tool to the arsenal, here's your chance.
Another idea is to use a router. Since plastics are "˜grabby', and plunge routing plastic takes extra grip and control, extra precautions apply - so this is not for the inexperienced, but it makes very straight slots. This method requires building a guide jig for the router, and a clamping system to keep the PVC firmly in place.
Reportedly, the best way to cut a perfectly slot straight is by using a table saw. However, there really is no way to cut a slot in the middle of a section of pipe (or across the whole length of the pipe) without removing the anti-kickback device and lowering the pipe on to the spinning blade. You could also do it with a handheld circular saw, but like the router method, you would need a jig and clamp system, and you still are lowering a spinning blade onto the PVC (if you're cutting the slot in the middle and leaving the ends uncut). I have never tried this and I do not recommend this method because it sounds too dangerous.
However you decide to cut the slot in the pipe, remember to observe all necessary safety precautions. Either that, or have someone else do it for you.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
This is indeed the problem. You have the slot too wide. This is allowing all the water to shoot to the end of the pipe and then gush out. A narrower slot, 1/8" wide, will force the water to 'pile up' inside the pipe and drain out of the slot more evenly.
So the answer to getting more even flow in your current pipe would be to push about 100 GPH/inch through it - which would cause the water to pile up.
But the better solution is to re-cut the pipe.
percula99
New member
Johnny and Floyd...Thanks for the advice. I will recut the slot soon and report back as to how it works out. I had made a few passes on a table saw hence the uneven too wide slot. Those pics and description really clarifies it.
Trueperc, did you say you just bought a dremmel?
Trueperc, did you say you just bought a dremmel?
Has anyone attempted a hang on back algae scrubber? I have been thinking about building one out of acrylic this summer. I have a 55 gallon with tempered glass and I am not sure that I want to go with a HOB skimmer or a overflow box with u tube siphon and sump.
I would guess that it would require two pumps. One to draw in water to distribute flow over the screen and another to pump it back into the aquarium. To those who are expereinced with acrylic, is it possible for a guy with a hand held saw and a dremel to build a small acrylic enclosure that could be water tight enough to last for years without leaking?
I would guess that it would require two pumps. One to draw in water to distribute flow over the screen and another to pump it back into the aquarium. To those who are expereinced with acrylic, is it possible for a guy with a hand held saw and a dremel to build a small acrylic enclosure that could be water tight enough to last for years without leaking?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Just wait a few months until the new version comes out. It was originally designed for nanos w/no sump
perpetual98
New member
Work smarter, not harder....
Probably tacky to bump my own post, but figured it might help people. Heck, I still have the jig setup, I could probably cut slots for people for a few bucks for material and shipping.
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