Mt Dora area
Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
Mt Dora area
srusso
Active member
So the two problems that I had with this setup, 1st it's hard to see in the first picture, but the bend in the tube that contacted the aquarium wall forced the ATS to sit a little leaned back so it wasn't completely verticle. The other problem is the massive bubbles entering the aquarium.
The fix:
First I had to modify the stand to accept the ATS further back.
Then I made a refugium of sorts, mostly to house the heater that was in the display.(I always hate to see equiptment in the display.
I made this by cutting a PVC fence post and sticking it into a modified sharps container. (don't ask how I got that)
Here you can see how the ATS fits on the new stand and refuge.
The nice thing about the stand is that it allows me to place the Auto Top off water behind the tank as well. Up till now, I've had it off the side and the kids could have easily bumped it off. Now it's much more secure.
Here's after one day of running the ATS. If you look closely, you can see algae on the screen. But I'm not sure if this is growing on the screen, or if it just got sprayed on there when I messing in the tank. But either way, it will seed it faster.
Thoughts: Overall, I have high hopes this will solve many of my problems. I was a bit worried about the lights in an enclosed plastic fixture, but the heat doesn't seem to be a problem. I have noticed the heater kick on several times after running the ATS for 8+ hours. So even in a ten gallon, it doesn't seem to be raising the temp too much. The housing never got hot enough to warrant worry about melting the plastic or overheating the fixture. Even though this type of pitcher will melt and change shape in the heat of a dish washer, there is no signs of deformation of the plastic. So I'm confident this is the right system to be running on this tank.
Since this was built with spare parts, I would calculate the overall cost of the project about 20 bucks.
Hope this helps someone else.
Aaron
Here you go, CFLs don't get very hot. You should have no problems with that.
L33t Reefer
New member
What have you guys had the most success with in terms of kelvin. I was thinking 2700k because it gows green algae well , but to get a real red or purple turf algae will i need something more like 6500k?
Well here are some pics of my display algae farm. LOL So we will see how well the ATS works. Hopefully I will see it all gone shortly. Then I will build one for my 200 and my 120.
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Amphiprion
Premium Member
I never got reds and purples, but 2700-3500K (I grabbed whatever the hardware store had on sale) grew both green and brown algae very well. The brown algae was my best "performer," but required more frequent pruning (which I did with a razor blade about every 5 days or so).
Here's the status of my scrubber after running it for two weeks. After the first week, I just rinsed it and rubbed over it with my hand. This week I used a tooth brush. I was surprised at how much GHA was hiding behind the brown and cyano. Oh yea, I've been battling cyano in my display for a while, but I didn't really have it in my refugium until I increased the lights. Anyway, as you can see in some of my pictures, it's there now and trying to kill my macros"¦we'll see who wins.
The levels I care about right now are Nitrate, Ph, Phosphate, and Copper, and here's where there at just before cleaning the scrubber.
Nitrate - 20~30 (no water changes in 2 weeks, usually take just 1 week to get to this level)
Ph - 8.4 (it's been higher since running the scrubber lights when the display lights are off)
Phosphate - 2.5 (it's been at this level for a while now despite trying GFO and Phosguard)
Copper - below 0.1 (just removed my last bag of Cuprisorb)
Here's some photo evidence of today's cleaning. I'll try to update with each cleaning.
The levels I care about right now are Nitrate, Ph, Phosphate, and Copper, and here's where there at just before cleaning the scrubber.
Nitrate - 20~30 (no water changes in 2 weeks, usually take just 1 week to get to this level)
Ph - 8.4 (it's been higher since running the scrubber lights when the display lights are off)
Phosphate - 2.5 (it's been at this level for a while now despite trying GFO and Phosguard)
Copper - below 0.1 (just removed my last bag of Cuprisorb)
Here's some photo evidence of today's cleaning. I'll try to update with each cleaning.
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srusso
Active member
No QT period?
Yeah I never QT, I trust the few LFS I use. I will pay for that one day I am sure...
I explain to them if this something wrong with it, there will be hell to pay...
I always ask how long its been there
Wife is not cool with a second tank in the house
I have setup one in the past and there was big fights ...and learned you cant set one up quickly...
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I could not believe that I already have growth starting on my screen at like 2 days. It lookes pretty green to me so far. I hope this is a good sign that soon it will be gone from my display tank. The only thing I was wondering is what if you have more algae in the display tank than the scrubber does the display tank win?
srusso
Active member
I could not believe that I already have growth starting on my screen at like 2 days. It lookes pretty green to me so far. I hope this is a good sign that soon it will be gone from my display tank. The only thing I was wondering is what if you have more algae in the display tank than the scrubber does the display tank win?
The scrubber will always win!
So long you set it up right, it cant lose...
importspeedman
New member
ok guys ran into a problem with my cichlid build. I got the materials to build today and started measuring. I didnt measure before and realized I only have 7 inches between the bottom of my stand and my sump (dow. should smack myself for not realizing this sooner).
I have a acrylic 140gal (I think? 72"L X 30"T X 15"D), and a 40gal sump. My return pump is a waterblaster hy-5000 with a head height of 57".
I can, but would rather not put the ats above the tank. If I go by the "rules" for a horizontal, I still don't have enough room in my sump. I would like to keep this scrubber as quiet as possible because it is not in my house.
Any input would be extremely appreciated.
I have a acrylic 140gal (I think? 72"L X 30"T X 15"D), and a 40gal sump. My return pump is a waterblaster hy-5000 with a head height of 57".
I can, but would rather not put the ats above the tank. If I go by the "rules" for a horizontal, I still don't have enough room in my sump. I would like to keep this scrubber as quiet as possible because it is not in my house.
Any input would be extremely appreciated.
The scrubber will always win!
So long you set it up right, it cant lose...
Well thanks to you guys I am pretty sure I have it set-up right. Now I am working on a proto-type algae scrubber for my 200 and my 120 I am going to make them similar to the santa monica acrylic type. Should have them done in a few weeks as soon as the acrylic guy gets the pieces done. I think more people will have room for this type. I know it would have been easier for me to have it longer and more self-contained.
dogstar74
Premium Member
I am confused, you mean that from the top of the sump, you have 7" of headroom before the top of the cabinet under the tank?
If that's the case, you could make a double unit with 7 inches of screen 10 inches long. A bank of lights between the two units, and have them swing out for changes or pull out easily for changes. I think you could still make this work.
Aaron
importspeedman
New member
Here are some pics of my setup, so you know what I have to work with. Keep in mind that it is normally not this cluttered.
importspeedman
New member
Thank you Aaron. I have considered doing this, but I also need to consider that the head height from the top of the sump needs to include the 1" pipe from the overflow. I also would like to incorporate the acrylic box design into this (so there is a little more loss of head). I know I can do it, I just need to come up with a plan of action. Hopefully the pics I provided will help out with this.
P.S. this is a new setup so i currently have no algae.
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