Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
spamreefnew
New member
Did we ever prove if the color of your algae means anything? yellow algae=x or dark algae means Y ? I have been getting the impression that each system will just grow the color algae that happens to be there at the time.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Prove, well that's a bit of a stretch, since we rely on anecdotal evidence, which is strong.
Yellow, spongy type of growth generally means that your scrubber is nutrient limited. Causes generally fall into the category of lighting being too intense or running for too long, and not enough nutrients being delivered to the screen (either not enough feeding, or flow is set too low)
Darker growth generally mean higher nutrient levels are present in the water, but I feel this one is harder to nail down exactly. If it's really dark - black, thin, flaky, oily-looking, etc - then that is definitely high nutrients. If it's brown, that is usually high nutrients and not enough light (duration and/or intensity). If it's dark green, that's sort of a borderline condition, heavily loaded tank, scrubber is growing OK, it's just dense.
The last condition is what I have been trying to pin down myself.
Yellow, spongy type of growth generally means that your scrubber is nutrient limited. Causes generally fall into the category of lighting being too intense or running for too long, and not enough nutrients being delivered to the screen (either not enough feeding, or flow is set too low)
Darker growth generally mean higher nutrient levels are present in the water, but I feel this one is harder to nail down exactly. If it's really dark - black, thin, flaky, oily-looking, etc - then that is definitely high nutrients. If it's brown, that is usually high nutrients and not enough light (duration and/or intensity). If it's dark green, that's sort of a borderline condition, heavily loaded tank, scrubber is growing OK, it's just dense.
The last condition is what I have been trying to pin down myself.
Brummie
Member
Brummie
Member
This bubbly scrubber theory is worrying me tbh. Is it based on fact or fiction?
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2420567
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2420567
gb530
New member
Really!? I always thought that 5.5K range was the best. :hmm5:
Brummie
Member
Algae Scrubber Basics
Redder the better has been the general consensus. However I'm testing a 14000 kelvin metal halide on mine.
Redder the better has been the general consensus. However I'm testing a 14000 kelvin metal halide on mine.
callsign4223
Active member
Quick question on a newly built scrubber. I just finished building mine and it seems to want to spit all over the place from the capped end. I managed to get it under control a little by raising the capped end about 1/2 inch higher than the inlet end, but it's still spitting quite a bit. Two things that I noticed when checking it out were that the zip ties holding the screen on seemed to cause uneven flow in the general area they are in and there is one close to the end where it's spitting. Also, I'm running a single durso overflow and there is a lot of air coming down the overflow, I closed off the ball valve on the overflow line a little to cut back on the air and it seemed to help the spitting, but I'm not comfortable leaving it closed down without an emergency overflow to aback it up.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
SantaMonica
Well-known member
All screens do that until they fill-in. As long as the slot is about 3mm, the growth will even-out the flow.
callsign4223
Active member
Ok, so just be patient and keep a towel around the bottom of the sump for the first few weeks?
callsign4223
Active member
Second question. Is it ok if my screen hangs into the sump or do I need to cut it shorter?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Yes, you can extend the screen into the sump as far as you want - it won't grow on the submerged part much
To prevent streamers, drape the top 1" or so with Saran Wrap.
To prevent streamers, drape the top 1" or so with Saran Wrap.
callsign4223
Active member
Doh, I read that and just forgot to do it.
ATS for my 29BC
ATS for my 29BC
Great thread! I hope anything I'm asking hasn't been covered in here, I couldn't read it all in the time that I had.
I wanted to run my DIY ATS idea by the experts before I start building anything. A few notes, then on to the pictures.
I wanted to put the pump inside the unit as a safety factor (hose comes loose, etc.) but most smaller pumps (MJ1200) are submersible. Looking for opinions/ideas there.
I'll probably build adjustable legs on to it so it could be used on other tanks as well.
The tubes in the pictures are just representative. I'll have bulkheads with soft line extending into the tank.
It's kind of hard to tell in the pictures what's clear and what's black. I left the front transparent so you could see what's going on, but everything except the partition between the LEDs and the screen will be black acrylic. There will also be a lid over the 'wet' portion.
LEDs are just thrown in for an idea of placement. Size, configuration, heat sinks, fans, etc will still need to figured out. Ideas welcome. I'll probably have them easily detachable so you can leave everything plugged in while taking the rest off for cleaning.
Right now, it looks like just over 27 sq inches of screen. After rock, my tank is probably less than 20 gallons. Is this big enough, and how many watts do I need?
Please excuse the sloppy modeling, I haven't had time to fine tune everything yet.
I'd love some feedback and opinions! Thanks for looking!
ATS for my 29BC
Great thread! I hope anything I'm asking hasn't been covered in here, I couldn't read it all in the time that I had.
I wanted to run my DIY ATS idea by the experts before I start building anything. A few notes, then on to the pictures.
I wanted to put the pump inside the unit as a safety factor (hose comes loose, etc.) but most smaller pumps (MJ1200) are submersible. Looking for opinions/ideas there.
I'll probably build adjustable legs on to it so it could be used on other tanks as well.
The tubes in the pictures are just representative. I'll have bulkheads with soft line extending into the tank.
It's kind of hard to tell in the pictures what's clear and what's black. I left the front transparent so you could see what's going on, but everything except the partition between the LEDs and the screen will be black acrylic. There will also be a lid over the 'wet' portion.
LEDs are just thrown in for an idea of placement. Size, configuration, heat sinks, fans, etc will still need to figured out. Ideas welcome. I'll probably have them easily detachable so you can leave everything plugged in while taking the rest off for cleaning.
Right now, it looks like just over 27 sq inches of screen. After rock, my tank is probably less than 20 gallons. Is this big enough, and how many watts do I need?
Please excuse the sloppy modeling, I haven't had time to fine tune everything yet.
I'd love some feedback and opinions! Thanks for looking!
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Probably only need 4 LED's per side, if they are wide-angle 3w ones.
Perfect, thanks!
The design that I posted yesterday only had LEDs on one side. I'm revising the design to incorporate LEDs on both sides. Does your recommendation hold true, 4 on each side?
Also, I'll admit that I haven't researched the '3D' ATS as much I could, but do you see any way (or benefit) to incorporate that here? I could adjust the outlet side to hold more water in the chamber.
I'll post up the new design here shortly.
Brummie
Member
I would certainly incorporate a blue LED. low intensity of upto 7% blue shows the greatest efficiency in scientific tests but improvements are known way higher than that (but at a lower efficiency). To make a waterfall into a true 3D screen you would have to match flow down with the natural buoyancy encountered through oxygen production and could be problematic at best. However, I find that folks give up far too easily in this scrubbing game. No pain, no gain 
SantaMonica
Well-known member
I'd just do 4 led's per side, and keep it simple. No slowing down the drain.
Changed the design up a bit. LEDs on both sides now, per SantaMonica I'll probably cut down to 4 per side. Added 80mm fan; too much, not enough?
A few challenges I could use some help with:
I need to find a driver that will fit in the cover, dimmable preferably. See picture below for placement and size requirements.
How to make the spraybar/screen lift out easily. I don't think a typical PVC union will fit inside the inner chamber. I will most likely use bulkheads on the bottom of the inner chamber to allow the use of flexible tubing into the tank. One thought was to make the elbow slip fit easily and use the cover as a hold down method? Might need latches depending on pressure. Ideas?
I'm trying to keep the light inside the box as much as possible. Some will come through the clear inner box walls. I will make the floor of the inner chamber black, but I still think I'll get a glow behind the fan and cooling vents.
Cross section of the cover:
Thanks again!
A few challenges I could use some help with:
I need to find a driver that will fit in the cover, dimmable preferably. See picture below for placement and size requirements.
How to make the spraybar/screen lift out easily. I don't think a typical PVC union will fit inside the inner chamber. I will most likely use bulkheads on the bottom of the inner chamber to allow the use of flexible tubing into the tank. One thought was to make the elbow slip fit easily and use the cover as a hold down method? Might need latches depending on pressure. Ideas?
I'm trying to keep the light inside the box as much as possible. Some will come through the clear inner box walls. I will make the floor of the inner chamber black, but I still think I'll get a glow behind the fan and cooling vents.
Cross section of the cover:
Thanks again!
Brummie
Member
Algae Scrubber Basics
Blue light denial? You do know that blue light can reduce ROS production I assume? Google "Reactive Oxygen Species" if confused. I know none of your scrubbers incorporate blue but that's a mistake in my view, as are bubbles, but that's a different matter.
Blue light denial? You do know that blue light can reduce ROS production I assume? Google "Reactive Oxygen Species" if confused. I know none of your scrubbers incorporate blue but that's a mistake in my view, as are bubbles, but that's a different matter.
