Algae Scrubber Basics

Mark... said:
So what is everyone using to cover the spray bar to prevent algae growth on the slot? Which then causes flow to divert and spray. I saw some pictures of a black plastic.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Turbo makes the extruded black clip on light blockers that you are referring to. He sales it by the foot. You need to be running 3/4" pipe though. HTH
 
Floyd R Turbo said:
Depends on how many LEDs, what type (1W, 3W, etc), configuration, etc. Can you provide a little more detail about the array, and the scrubber overall size? Pics?
Click to expand...

I bought this used but I'll do my best.
I Believe they are 3W LED's, 5 on each side (4 red 1 blue). Screen is about 6"x4".

I actually noticed a little hair algae growth already! How quickly can I turn up LEDs? I don't want to nuke my growth.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Mike Ordner said:
It is stated that you need a minimum of 35 GPH per inch of pipe. I want my working screen to be 8 inches wide. Does this mean I need a pump capable of pumping 35 x 8 = 280 GPH? I have two pumps on hand. One tests to 93 GPH and one test at 415 GPH. If the above is true then one is too weak and one is almost twice the flow. Do I use the bigger pump or search for one that has a flow closer to the 280 GPH?
Click to expand...

35 GPH/in is just a guideline, if you don't hit that exactly, no sweat. If you're significantly under it, you might run into issues. Like if you are 15 GPH/in. But if you're at 25 GPH/in, probably OK.

That being said, you want to his that 35 GPH/in if you CAN. And remember that is after head loss. I estimate this by adding 24" to the vertical rise to account for the slot pipe head. So if your scrubber pipe is 12" above the water in the sump, you have 36" of head. Look that up on your pump's head loss chart and you're good to go as long as your close.

The 93 GPH pump - no don't use that. For reference, a Cobalt MJ1200 delivers about 195 GPH at 36" of head to a 6" slot pipe with screen and no growth. Same thing with one of those little Eheim 1100s (I think that's the one) After 3 months, flow is down to 140GPH. After 6, it's more like 60 GPH. Little pumps = horrible head loss characteristics.
 
Floyd R Turbo said:
35 GPH/in is just a guideline, if you don't hit that exactly, no sweat. If you're significantly under it, you might run into issues. Like if you are 15 GPH/in. But if you're at 25 GPH/in, probably OK.

That being said, you want to his that 35 GPH/in if you CAN. And remember that is after head loss. I estimate this by adding 24" to the vertical rise to account for the slot pipe head. So if your scrubber pipe is 12" above the water in the sump, you have 36" of head. Look that up on your pump's head loss chart and you're good to go as long as your close.

The 93 GPH pump - no don't use that. For reference, a Cobalt MJ1200 delivers about 195 GPH at 36" of head to a 6" slot pipe with screen and no growth. Same thing with one of those little Eheim 1100s (I think that's the one) After 3 months, flow is down to 140GPH. After 6, it's more like 60 GPH. Little pumps = horrible head loss characteristics.
Click to expand...

Thanks Floyd. I did try to get actual working conditions when I tested these pumps, but only with water depth of the sump and head pressure coming out of one inch flex pipe on the bigger pump. It was rated for 620 GPH and I got 415 actual flow. The larger one will give me about 51 GPH with an 8 inch slot, I hope. So even if the flow slows some, I should still be within range.
 
You will want to throttle that 620GPH pump back quite a ways though, too much flow initially can prevent attachment. If you have a high bioload system, then you can use that extra flow once you get a mature screen to essentially go "over" the guideline rating, to a certain extent. But you will want to make sure you have adequate spray blocking, 50 GPH/in is quite a bit of flow.
 
Floyd R Turbo said:
You will want to throttle that 620GPH pump back quite a ways though, too much flow initially can prevent attachment. If you have a high bioload system, then you can use that extra flow once you get a mature screen to essentially go "over" the guideline rating, to a certain extent. But you will want to make sure you have adequate spray blocking, 50 GPH/in is quite a bit of flow.
Click to expand...

Thanks again. I will be sure to include a valve to regulate flow of the pump. I will try to start with 35 GPH and increase in increments as the screen matures to see what my results are.
 
Mike Ordner said:
Thanks again. I will be sure to include a valve to regulate flow of the pump. I will try to start with 35 GPH and increase in increments as the screen matures to see what my results are.
Click to expand...

Good idea. I got a higher rated pump with my turbo L3 and glad I did. I started off about half closed to get the screen started then with Floyd R Turbo's direction and as the screen matured I've opened up the valve to allow more flow. I'm not fully open yet but it's getting there. I'm looking forward to pulling it out this weekend. Will be the first time I've let it go more then a week with out pulling it out.
 
Little posted update copynpasted from my tank thread.


First full 2 weeks between cleanings are up and the results are most impressive. I have to admit that any results would have impressed me. I didn't expect much from the ATS but its really blown away all expectations.

AND Bud has a new revision coming out of the Turbo ATS and I'm going to go with "Go big or Go home" and got on the L8 waiting list. Same length as the L4 but a bit taller. I think around 4" taller. Won't be till some time next year though.

And for tonights cleaning. Very full and thick. Green through out. It does seem like one side is tending to be a bit thicker then the other. Not sure it's an issue though.


Front
0545723a1d0ba65e89bd6b138e170ba3.jpg


Back
e58924ec6c478ef4377f8b35a90b7fbb.jpg


Side shot
1d148ddd1cf4d06c2798ba3f9c235258.jpg


Thick bottom (baby got back came to mind...)
97f95c3f6514523c1dbd7bef471f1c76.jpg



And the pile of
005dba17d547382a4dab1f225d65a4aa.jpg



I bumped the flow up a tiny bit and its almost wide open. See if that evens out the sides a bit. Lights are still 12 on and 12 off. 11:30pm to 11:30am. The reds at high intensity and blues still at the original jumpers and diffused with scotch tape.
 
What is the black plastic that's over the pipe? I know it prevents algae from screwing up the slot where the water comes out. Thanks!
 
theatrus said:
Probably work pretty well but also is going to deliver quite a punch. How big are you planning?
Click to expand...

Not quite sure, in the planning stages at the moment. I currently have 240g water volume so this scrubber would probably be 1, probably 2 full #7 mesh screens. I feed a lot but probably not as much as this would remove :) I'd like to remove my fuge and frag tank from system, I know they currently filter a lot.

Currently using a small 6x4" lit with 15w on each side.
 
Floyd R Turbo said:
I've seen a very similar fixture used with great success, but it was dimmable, and that's going to be a big factor with 5W chips. A lot of punch in that fixture.
Click to expand...

Okay, I'll keep looking for a dimmable version. I just wanted to make sure I was on the right path.

Thanks for all the work on the algae scrubber pages! Currently on page 200 in basics.
 
Scrubbers compared to GFO (granular ferric oxide):


GFO:

Absorbs phosphate.
Absorbs silicates.
Does not absorb ammonia/ammonium.
Does not absorb nitrate.
Does not absorb nitrite.
Does not absorb CO2.
Does not produce oxygen.
Does not produce pods.
Does not produce amino acids, vitamin C, or carbs.
Is a non-living chemical (iron).
Is expensive, and must continue to be replaced.
Needs some place to go (bag, reactor, etc).
Is dark brown.
If spilled into water is very hard to remove.
Animals cannot eat it.
Can lower phosphate too low, resulting in coral bleaching.
Have been reports of GFO causing HLLE disase in fish.
Capacity is reduce from first day, and continues dropping.
Does not provide any useful end product.
Heavy iron particles can clog your drain.
The iron can fuel nuisance algae growth.
Does not need light/electricity.

Algae Scrubbers:

Absorbs phosphate.
Does not absorbs silicates.
Absorbs ammonia/ammonium.
Absorbs nitrate.
Absorbs nitrite.
Absorbs CO2.
Produces oxygen.
Produces pods.
Produces amino acids, vitamin C, and carbs.
Is living, and growing.
Is free, and replaces itself.
Needs some place to go.
Is green or brown.
If spilled into water is easy to remove.
Animals eat it.
Cannot lower phosphate too low.
No reports of causing HLLE disase in fish.
Capacity increases from first day, as growth develops.
Provides useful end product (algae).
Very light particles go down drain easily, and dissolve.
Consumes iron.
Needs light/electricity (pennies per month).
 
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