Algae Scrubber Basics

Oh well.


Here's a graphing showing over the past week since bumping up the intensity of the LEDs on one side the ORP has for once climbed over 300 consistently.

The red line is the LEDs on and coordinates with the ORP climbing quite a bit more then normal. I normally see the up and down but not that much up to over 300. Only thing I can think of that's changed is the intensity of the LEDs on the one side.

Past 7 days from the Apex
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Also another view from reeftronics
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Bud, Thanks for the quick response and great info!

So if I am building a 40g breeder with a 20g Long sump and plan to feed say 1 cube a day or 1 cube every other day, and my main goal is to run just a skimmer and ATS without a phosphate reactor, I should be OK with either the 1 cube or 2 cube screen.

Now, I do go on a lot of business trips so I could have someone watch the tank but they would most likely just do the feeding, auto top off and maybe a small water change but I highly doubt I could get them to clean my Algae Scrubber! So I'm wondering what build would let me get away with only having to clean every 1 month sometimes. When I am home, I would clean once a week but when I go on trips (sometimes for 1 month at a time), I would want the ATS to be able to keep going without having to be cleaned and be able to keep the nitrates, phosphates, etc low in the system. I thought an oversized screen would just allow the Algae to continue on growing and give you longer time between cleaning cycles. Why would it inhibit growth?

The problem becomes detachment, so yeah you could oversize the screen but if it grows thick enough, then you start to have layers dying off and this can dump nutrients back into the tank. I think it would be better to just teach someone how to clean it, they should only have to do it once for each month that you're gone, maybe twice.
 
The ORP really shot up last night with both sides on high and seems to have leveled off at 333 for the day as the LEDs went off at 11:30. I've always monitored ORP but have never tried to control it. But this will be the first time I have to actually watch it now and may for once have to shut down the ozone completely due to high ORP. Never would have thought I would have that situation. It's not a problem but it was not something I would have expected.

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I'm wondering what build would let me get away with only having to clean every 1 month

This is where an upflow scrubber fits right in. They can go a long time without detachment, and importantly, without overflowing. I just finished a daily picture series of an un-cleaned upflow scrubber, and once the growth got 2" thick it stayed that way until harvesting. A waterfall scrubber would have had it's roots die and detach, or it would have overflowed, or both by now.
 
This is where an upflow scrubber fits right in. They can go a long time without detachment, and importantly, without overflowing. I just finished a daily picture series of an un-cleaned upflow scrubber, and once the growth got 2" thick it stayed that way until harvesting. A waterfall scrubber would have had it's roots die and detach, or it would have overflowed, or both by now.

A waterfall scrubber would most likely have removed an order of magnitude more nutrients from the water in the same period of time. A decent waterfall scrubber would have an emergency drain, so there's very little risk of anything overflowing.
 
Quick question, I have a DIY waterfall algae scrubber with red and blue LED's but I can't seem to find the thread on how strong I should start the LEDs with a fresh screen.

I have them at about 30%. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
 
Depends on how many LEDs, what type (1W, 3W, etc), configuration, etc. Can you provide a little more detail about the array, and the scrubber overall size? Pics?
 
The ORP really shot up last night with both sides on high and seems to have leveled off at 333 for the day as the LEDs went off at 11:30. I've always monitored ORP but have never tried to control it. But this will be the first time I have to actually watch it now and may for once have to shut down the ozone completely due to high ORP. Never would have thought I would have that situation. It's not a problem but it was not something I would have expected.

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Still making jumps every night hitting all time high ORP levels. Hit 377 this morning by the time the ATS LEDs turned off.

If going by ORP as an indicator of water quality this Turbo L3 ATS is the best thing I've ever done to this tank. Makes me wish I went with the L4!

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So what is everyone using to cover the spray bar to prevent algae growth on the slot? Which then causes flow to divert and spray. I saw some pictures of a black plastic.

Thanks
 
Just drape a sheet of sandwich wrap over the pipe.

A waterfall scrubber would most likely have removed an order of magnitude more nutrients from the water in the same period of time

No, I think that a 2" mat of algae of size X by Y will be approximately the same whether up, down, or horizontal, if you don't look at the cellular level. The difference, like the person asked, is what happens when you don't clean it.
 
No, I think that a 2" mat of algae of size X by Y will be approximately the same whether up, down, or horizontal, if you don't look at the cellular level. The difference, like the person asked, is what happens when you don't clean it.

I wasn't comparing the composition of algae grown inside air scrubbers vs waterfall scrubbers. I was comparing the speed at which a waterfall scrubber can grow algae, and therefore remove/bind up nutrients, vs an air scrubber.
 
Wouldn't the composition be basically the same between the two types? Doesn't having lights on both sides of the screen at higher intensities (once the screen is matured) allow for the time between scraping to be extended? I don't know how long but my understanding is the detachment is reduced by that setup.
 
In theory yes, but from what I've seen of air scrubbers, the algae that grows doesn't firmly attach to the substrate, whereas in waterfall scrubbers it does. Air powered scrubbers operate quite differently to waterfall scrubbers. Whether or not this all means the algae composition is different, I don't know, but it's possible. Some testing would help to clarify.

From what I've read, having LEDs at both sides of the algae screen, at high intensity, keeps the roots alive for longer, so the algae doesn't detach as quickly as it may otherwise.
 
Question on flow rate

Question on flow rate

It is stated that you need a minimum of 35 GPH per inch of pipe. I want my working screen to be 8 inches wide. Does this mean I need a pump capable of pumping 35 x 8 = 280 GPH? I have two pumps on hand. One tests to 93 GPH and one test at 415 GPH. If the above is true then one is too weak and one is almost twice the flow. Do I use the bigger pump or search for one that has a flow closer to the 280 GPH?
 
You could throttle the larger pump down a little if need be. Won't hurt a thing-IIRC, it will use less electricity too.
 
You could throttle the larger pump down a little if need be. Won't hurt a thing-IIRC, it will use less electricity too.

Thanks. That is the direction I will go then. I am getting all the parts for an LED scrubber this weekend and will start my build. Once I get the screen well seeded, can I increase the flow to the 400 GPH, or will this detach the algae from the screen?
 
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