Algae Scrubber Basics

I plan to purchase one of your small units for an upcoming 20g build. It will be a light bioload of only 3 small fish so I feel the 0.5 or 0.6 models will suffice just fine for my intentions. However, is there any major factor to consider when deciding between the HOG or the Drop? I don't have any space limitations.
 
This was probably asked sometime throughout the thread but would 3000k LED lights work alright for an ATS? I have like a few hundred in my basement that a friend gave to me and it would be awesome if I could use a few for an ATS (although if not whatever since like lightbulbs are cheap and home depot is close). I'm just curious since they don't run so hot, they're cheaper to run, use less electricity and still emit 3000k.
 
Scrubbers that shine through the glass, compared to scrubbers that set underwater on the bottom, differ mostly by the ability to see the growth by looking through the glass without having to reach in, and by the light that escapes sideways through the glass.

As for sound, if you put both of them farther down, they will both make bubble sounds. But if you raise them 1/2" above the waterline, the ones that set on the bottom will be silent, whereas the one attached to the glass will still be heard

Those 3000k lights are not great for growing. Much better to use red light if you can find them at HD.
 
I wasn't going to add copper and measure it. I wanted to run the math to see what dose would be low enough to be below the limit. Even frozen food has some ppb metals and we feed constantly. It's like human consumption and Arsenic... Needs to be very very very low, but nothing is zero. I never liked brussel sprouts (higher in As).

Ok... To close this out- the recommendation was to go with a sodium nitrate additive instead. :D

Ok, but the biggest punch in that miracle grow is the P, not N. Dosing nitrate would do something completely different.
I mention this because i dosed kno3 to get my nitrates up (having already gotten my Phosphates up) and it did and dropped my phosphates to nothing so now nothing green is growing.

Some ballpark numbers for your miracle grow (not a chem person, could be way off)
8% phosphate (pretending PO4 and P2O5 are interchangeable)
0.07% copper (so 100x more phosphate)

If you target 0.10 ppm phosphate, that would give you just under .001 ppm or 1ppb copper.
Seawater 380 ng/L = .38 ppb
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-11/rhf/#9
So you are in the ballpark of natural seawater but 2-3 times higher.
 
<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/0_zpsbx53vwty.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/0_zpsbx53vwty.png" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsbx53vwty.png"/></a>

http://agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilizers/FertDB/prodinfo.aspx?pname=2101
http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=6023

what's the safe Cu ppb level?
You're not talking about adding Miracle Grow to your reef tank, are you? I can't imagine that is a good idea
 
I'm using it to feed my phyto right now. I am curious about the effect on a reef though. If I did add it, could an ATS handle it and export the excess successfully?

I won't try it in my DT, but I may try it in an experimental tank.
 
You're not talking about adding Miracle Grow to your reef tank, are you? I can't imagine that is a good idea

This is funny, I just got home from work. I operate heavy equipment for The Scotts Company.(Miracle-Gro).
 

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I'm using the all purpose MG for my phyto. It's a 24-8-16 (24% N, 8% P, 16% K).
Ok, looked again at the numbers. For every 1.0 ppm NO3 you increased, it would increase PO4 by 0.1 ppm.

It's more balanced than I thought, but still think the P increase would be a bigger deal than the N.
 
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