Algae Scrubber Basics

If you changed sumps, you had to move all that material, which changed flow patterns and caused die-off of lots of the filter feeders.
The Sump change was a direct swap, in same location, same size, same return pump with same plumbing, and same skimmer. No flow patterns changed in the Display tank.

I didn't want the new sump to be sterile. I planned ahead of time for the build/swap.
For a months I had a box of Marine Pure BioFilter Media Balls in a cage running in the Old sump building up large amounts of bacteria.
That cage was transferred to the new sump.

Also the new glass sump that was aged/matured while I developed/tested the "In-Sump Algae scrubber".
I did this by having a Large, heavy eating fish in the sump Refuge section.
That new sump actually cycled rapidly since I fed it water from the Transfer Tanks water changes..

All I lost was the bacteria growth on the Rubbermaid sump walls. Very little overall.

BTW. If the low levels of copper are not readable on test kit, but actually killed some of my hermits. I picked up a sacrifice hermit from the store. He is sitting in the (possible copper water with the mirror). We'll see if he dies. [I've never harmed/killed any of my livestock ever on purpose, however this time one hermit is necessary].
 
Try running a poly filter or cuprisorb for a while, see if there is a color change.
Good idea. I called every store I know and they don't carry the Cuprisorb. Funny they carry copper treatments (Venom, but no anti-Venom).
I'm using ChemiPure, and Carbon (should help a bit). Plus will do a few water changes staggered over next few day.

Anyway, the Mirror water came up Zero Copper on test kit.
and the Hermit Crab survived the night.

Maybe it's just something else.
 
I think I figured out my SPS Coral Tissue Recession MYSTERY. Not 100% sure, but will know soon.
It's probably, not the Mirror/Copper, not the Scrubber/NutrientDrop. It's my salt that I changed last bucket purchase and had in storage till I ran out (Which I did run out installing that new SUMP).

I got my clue yesterday when I notice something odd happening in my other NON SPS tank. I never did a water change in a while in that stable tank, so I tried to catch up my doing a 20% change (that was about a week ago). Instead of seeing my LPS corals perk up the next day from the Water Change, thet didn't improve at all (it caught my attention, but thought nothing of it). But yesterday I notice one of my torches loose it's color. Healthy but kind of went translucent. NOthing has happened in the tank for a year.

I then looked again at my bucket of salt. It's Aquaforest "Sea Salt", not "Reef Salt" which is not for demanding corals like LPS/SPS. I didn't notice since both buckets are similar purple. Plus during this Sump Transition, I didn't put in my dosing system yet. I wash dosing manually, and it was odd that my MAG levels were drastically dropping (so I topped up MAG, not thinking much). I wonder what else this low end salt is missing and could explain my slow tissue recession along with other factors in the Sump Swap.

As soon as stores opens, going to get some Trusty "Tropic Marine PRO" and do a larger water change on both tanks.
 
Also was that a new bucket? If so did you use all of it? If not, did you mix it up thoroughly?

Yes it was a brand new bucket.

No, I didn't use all of it up. Still have about 1/4 left. ( I tested a small batch, and yes MAG is low on this stuff 1175, thus the explanation for my MAG drops and need to supplement more than usual). Bucket does say Pottasium=350, so that is low too, also got a Salifert K kit (always wanted one) so will test later.).

Yes, I always mix my water for several hours, or overnight.

I got my new bucket of Tropic Marine Pro. Mixing a large Garbage can's worth. Later tonight. ill do a WC change on my LPS tank first, to see if I see a Trumpet Coral coral perk up. Then I'll do a similar WC on the SPS tank.

This topic probably doesn't belong on this thread anymore, however I'll post till I have a conclusive conclusion. If that is ok.
 
I meant did you mix the salt up thoroughly before using part of it. Not doing so can mean some components that settle out during transportation will result in concentrations varying as you use it a little at a time. This is why you should always mix your salt before using.
 
I have heard this is the most important step^^ that is why really nice salt is a two or more part mix

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Or get a large enough container to mix an entire bag or bucket at once.

I have a 55g that I have float switches at the bottom that shuts off my automatic water changes and alerts me to refill. Then I have a float valve and mark up top to fill to that allows me to dump in a bag and achieve 35ppt.
 
I meant did you mix the salt up thoroughly before using part of it. Not doing so can mean some components that settle out during transportation will result in concentrations varying as you use it a little at a time. This is why you should always mix your salt before using.

wow. I never knew that. Never have done it ever in 15 years+. Thanks for mentioning. Will do that right away. must be dusty to do. What I best way. Tall dry garbage can.

but I do notice the better packages like aquaforest and tropic marine bag the salt tightly inside the bucket. Reef Crystal boxes are also tighly wrapped bads. Can't see bagged stuff settling that much. But no harm doing a dry mix.
 
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Today is my 6 year anniversary of my first algae scrubber installation on 10/10/10

IMG_8710.jpg
 
Yes it was a brand new bucket.

No, I didn't use all of it up. Still have about 1/4 left. ( I tested a small batch, and yes MAG is low on this stuff 1175, thus the explanation for my MAG drops and need to supplement more than usual). Bucket does say Pottasium=350, so that is low too, also got a Salifert K kit (always wanted one) so will test later.).

Yes, I always mix my water for several hours, or overnight.

I got my new bucket of Tropic Marine Pro. Mixing a large Garbage can's worth. Later tonight. ill do a WC change on my LPS tank first, to see if I see a Trumpet Coral coral perk up. Then I'll do a similar WC on the SPS tank.

This topic probably doesn't belong on this thread anymore, however I'll post till I have a conclusive conclusion. If that is ok.

So I thought I'd post my conclusion on this posting/thread.

- Hermit crab has died From Copper Poisoning (in just a couple of days).
- Finally after longer soaking of Mirror, Copper shows up on TEST KIT.
- And I figured out why I got confused with the Wrong Salt Purchase (I bought Sea salt thinking I bought Reef Salt). Somehow the labeling is wrong. I've contacted Manufacturer for explanation.
----> And I did do a 20% water change on my other LPS tank (with the Tropic Marine Pro Salt), and Ka-Boom the corals perked up happier next day.

2016-10-10_ScrubberForumClues_zpsqxzxctgz.jpg


So I did a double-whammy on my SPS tank.


This issue was NOTHING TO DO with Basic Algae Scrubber Nutrient Reduction.
 
Last note. Knowing the Mirror was source of Copper, I removed it from the scrubber. Pretty easy, I only did a light layer of silicone just in case it needed removal.

This Photo shows (with a bright light behind mirror) how it corroded around the exposed edges, releasing the copper coating.

2016-10-10_MirrorOutCorodedEdges_zpsyqqptpax.jpg


Should have the cleaned up scrubber, up and running soon :)

Will be doing some tank/sump cleanup/sweeping for any settled Copper, and running Seachem CupriSorb for a while to clean up tank.
 
This may seem like an obvious question, but how to you clean the screen on an ATS? I've had mine running for couple months or so, and get a good quarter inch mat of the green stuff on either side of the screen every week. I've been scraping the screen nearly bare weekly with an old gift card, but I've read you're not supposed to remove the algae all the way down to the screen.

Also, anyone figured out a good way to clean the slot without removing the screen?



I use an old credit card to scrape the algae off


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This issue was NOTHING TO DO with Basic Algae Scrubber Nutrient Reduction.

Glad you figured it out.

Mirrors are not that good for reflectors anyway because light has to pass through glass two times. Polished aluminum is better.

It's my understanding that your algae filter will also help remove the copper.
 
if copper levels are low enough, algae will adsorb copper. But if it's too high, the copper will kill it off. I'm not exactly sure how that works, seems like what kills you should just kill you but that's why I didn't major in chemical engineering. That and 10 hour 1 credit labs.

I think flexible mylar is safe underwater. Maybe. Not 100% sure on that....but I seem to recall that
 
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