Algae Scrubber Basics

[jrp1588]

I think you'll find that keeping it at 400 might be a bit tricky, that's what my experience is - it seems to drop fast from 400 and then the drop rate levels out, so you can run a long time w/o dosing and not drop below 300. That's why I recommended the potassium-based water softener salt. You can mix up 5g of supersaturated mix for a few bucks, but you have to drip through dry GFO as mentioned - I don't know if that's for phosphate as much as it is for silicates and other minor impurities

I'll experiment with the Brightwell stuff I've got, and see if things look better. If it turns out my consumption is high, I'll look into the water softener salt. For now, the simplicity of mixing and adding without an extra step is worth it.

 

[Scuba_Steve]

2 questions.

What is a good distance between the acrylic walls of the ATS to the screen? I imagine too close and I will never keep the algae and salt off the walls. My screen will be 4"x3" btw.

Does anyone see any problems with a T coming off my return to feed my ATS? My return pump is quite a bit oversized for my system. I do not want to feed it off a drain btw.

 

[SantaMonica]

If the walls are opaque, 2" should be good. If a clear light cover, then 1.5 to 2"

A T from the return is fine, with a valve.

 

[Scuba_Steve]

Here is the build so far! Hopefully it works out well.

 

[DEadsCSU]

What would you all recommend for algae control in a 150 gallon tank: a few fish that eat algae well or an algae scrubber?

 

[SantaMonica]

Even if the fish eat, the nutrients (especially ammonia/urea) need to be exported.

 

[DEadsCSU]

Even if the fish eat, the nutrients (especially ammonia/urea) need to be exported.

So you'd recommend an algae scrubber I assume.


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[jweist]

Not necessarily. He's saying that herbivores are not a form of filtration.

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[karimwassef]

well... it's possible to create a recycling loop where the fish eat the algae and their waste becomes food for coral, pods, and algae.. etc.. etc..

 

[jrp1588]

Well I'm beginning to think potassium isn't my issue with lightening montis. After bringing my levels up to 400, they held steady at 400 for a whole week. In fact, my freshly made salt mix tested at 340, while my tank's base potassium level seems to be 360. I guess it's getting some from the food.

I've let my nitrate test kit expire, and never bought a phosphate kit. I've got both on order, so we'll see what those say.

 

[jweist]

Well I'm beginning to think potassium isn't my issue with lightening montis. After bringing my levels up to 400, they held steady at 400 for a whole week. In fact, my freshly made salt mix tested at 340, while my tank's base potassium level seems to be 360. I guess it's getting some from the food.

I've let my nitrate test kit expire, and never bought a phosphate kit. I've got both on order, so we'll see what those say.

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[br88dy]

This is a picture of my scrubber after a month of being in use. This picture was taken a week ago and it actually has a ton of orange stuff on it now as well. I'm assuming my brand new tank's diatom bloom is happening on my scrubber. I understand that oily algae means high nutrients, but I'm not sure how to move forward.

-I have 1 tang and feed it a little less than a cube per day (I feed this much because I'd like to keep feeding about a cube a day when I add other fish)
-75 GPH flow over the screen, but will soon be lowered to 50.
-3 660nm RapidLED's for 14 hours a day. I've tried changing the photo period to see if I could get anything green, but not much has changed. The orange/black stuff seems to grow quickest at 18 hours a day.
-Nitrates are at 10ppm and slowly climb.

Do I wait it out? I'm removing the oily algae every 2 days to keep it off my screen. Do I remove the diatoms as well? They've pretty much encrusted all the holes on the screen.

<a href="http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/br88dy/media/Algae%20Scrubber/1be4ac3c-89f5-4d27-9d45-59282782ff74.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n513/br88dy/Algae%20Scrubber/1be4ac3c-89f5-4d27-9d45-59282782ff74.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1be4ac3c-89f5-4d27-9d45-59282782ff74.jpg"/></a>

 

[SantaMonica]

Needs much more light on both sides.

 

[karimwassef]

ok.. finally finished publishing my DIY light wall (600W) over my ATS tank

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627991

(see? this time I didn't hijack the thread)

 

[br88dy]

Needs much more light on both sides.

Well this is an AIO tank so the screen hangs where the water overflows into the sump section of the tank, so it's single-sided.

Just FYI, this really is the only place I can get "Algae Scrubber Basics" answers to my basic questions. I really do appreciate the insight that is given to me. I'm at the tail end of a new tank build and the cornerstone of the filtration is an ATS.

I've been following this thread for about 18 months and it's easy to see how the advice from SantaMonica and Floyd R Turbo can guarantee a successful ATS. A couple months ago I started a new 40 breeder build and I trust their advice so much that I don't ever plan on needing a skimmer or GFO or even carbon! I've seen the power of algae via these two gentleman and, again, I really do appreciate the effort you guys make to even reply my posts.

SantaMonica: I'll add another LED with the same photo period and see how the algae responds. Thanks again.

 

[Devaji108]

having a sipper hard time keeping my air bubbles holes clean on my upflow ATS anyone have pointers?
at thins point I am thinking of moving to a water fall ATS. but I do like how slim the out of the way the upflow is. but it have not produced much in the last few months. when it works it's great but its not really working the last few months

thinking of using a 2.5 glass tank for a waterfall ATS build. or go acrylic.
question would 1/8" be to thin for acrylic?
any tip or tricks to drill it?

thanks guys!

 

[SantaMonica]

What is the bubbler?

 

[crabbydan]

This is a huge post. Somewhere way back in the thread I read a response that said something like... Your screen is 9x6 = 54 sq in. If you're lighting both sides, that's a 4.5 cube/day scrubber. So does that mean my scrubber/screen size should be based on my feeding amount does tank size not come into play at all? I am in the process of building a waterfall scrubber that will fall down into the filter sock area 7 inches wide (removing the sock) for a 105 gallon tank. I have 16 inches of down flow space available. My largest screen size could be just under 7 inches by 16 inches. Just wondering where I should start my screen size at. I feed small dry food pellets once a day and twice a week I feed one frozen cube along with reef assorted reef food like chili powder etc..

 

[br88dy]

This is a huge post. Somewhere way back in the thread I read a response that said something like... Your screen is 9x6 = 54 sq in. If you're lighting both sides, that's a 4.5 cube/day scrubber. So does that mean my scrubber/screen size should be based on my feeding amount does tank size not come into play at all? I am in the process of building a waterfall scrubber that will fall down into the filter sock area 7 inches wide (removing the sock) for a 105 gallon tank. I have 16 inches of down flow space available. My largest screen size could be just under 7 inches by 16 inches. Just wondering where I should start my screen size at. I feed small dry food pellets once a day and twice a week I feed one frozen cube along with reef assorted reef food like chili powder etc..

Yes, the screen size is not dependent on water volume anymore.
http://algaescrubber.zohosites.com/planning-your-algae-scrubber.html

 

[crabbydan]

Thank you!