these flood lights get quite warm when in my cabinet closed all day, wondering if it will have any impact on water temp, thinking of adding a fan or two in there to provide some airflow
but are white light not red (maybe swap them??)
I agree. But there is enough no-coralline areas on screen to start up.
I'll replace/clean the one or more screens later, once I get scrubber going.
I think I figured things out.
I did a review of all my Logs.
Posted Tank Log Review details at the end of my Tank thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2636608&page=14
Summary:
-> Various Improvements to Tank lowered my N&P to much lower levels (over time). P especially
-> Scrubber Slowed down significantly (as it should)
-> Corwie and Snails cleaned Screen to Like New.
-> Screen can't start up since they keep it too clean.
-> I removed Snails. Will remove Cowrie.
-> I have to restart the screen like I started in the beginning. (15 hours, Full Power)
-> I have small head start with some algae on there.
Does my theory make sense?
What is better for restart. (High Power, Less Time) (Lower Power, More time). (Doesn't matter?).
...but they like to use white because the boxes are open and the light escapes.
What are the nutrient levels? PO4 and NO3.So I'm a week into my scrubber and my display tank is still outgrowing at a furious pace. When can I possibly expect it to be beat by the scrubber?
Here is what it looks like currently. I have one side of lights on just for the photo.
Levels are practically zero because algae is consuming it all.
Tank is a 75 with 20 sump. I know patience is a virtue in this hobby, I had no algae for 18 months then boom out of nowhere a big bloom.
I feed about two cubes a day and always have.
Just wondering off everyone's experience how long until the scrubber starts to overpower the tank. Thx!!
Rocks must have taken on enough phosphate to fuel algae. My guess is it'll take at least a couple months to start beating it back with ATS.