Algae Scrubber Basics

If you already have it, go ahead and use it. There is no concern with light transmission through acrylic, whatever thickness it is doesn't make a difference, it just might refract the light slightly differently, and it will be a little heavier.
 
Any reason why you are making it so deep (front to back)? You want the lights as close as possible for T5HO, so I would make your maximum inner dimension as small as possible. If you're trying to put in a single drain, that's probably the limiting factor. I would use several 1" drains, maybe 3 of them if your sump allows that configuration, each at the 1/4 points (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 of the width) and have your inner depth dimension be 3".

Also if you have extra material, make use that you make the screen taller than you think you need. The fixture is 48" but the useable lamp length is only 44" (it's 20" for a 24" fixture) so use 44 not 48 for your screen width, and probably subtract another inch for a center support.

What light fixture are you using, or are you DIYing one?
 
First week with the 6500K 15 watt bulbs.
Looks like I got more growth, but its still more of a slime then anything.
There was less of the bleached filiments on there, so I'm going to let it go a few weeks and see what turns out.
 
might wanna try 6500k with 20 watts or 40 watts.
15 watt is to small a watt, for better filtering, use higher wattage but not to exceed 50 watts.
 
Any reason why you are making it so deep (front to back)? You want the lights as close as possible for T5HO, so I would make your maximum inner dimension as small as possible. If you're trying to put in a single drain, that's probably the limiting factor. I would use several 1" drains, maybe 3 of them if your sump allows that configuration, each at the 1/4 points (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 of the width) and have your inner depth dimension be 3".

Also if you have extra material, make use that you make the screen taller than you think you need. The fixture is 48" but the useable lamp length is only 44" (it's 20" for a 24" fixture) so use 44 not 48 for your screen width, and probably subtract another inch for a center support.

What light fixture are you using, or are you DIYing one?

you said I need a 44" by 5.5" for a 210gallon
how high should I make it?
if my tube with the slot is 2" you think 3" wide will be fine?

I have endcaps and reflectors and a icecap 660 ballast

all I need so far is bulbs and screen
 
might wanna try 6500k with 20 watts or 40 watts.
15 watt is to small a watt, for better filtering, use higher wattage but not to exceed 50 watts.

You can not say just use more light without knowing the design used.
I started with 23 watt bulbs and just grew algea inside pipes and bleached everything else.
 
Ok I've read this thread till my heads about to esplode-- after 40 pages or so I have two questions- is the basis behind a 3d scrubber just a water tight container that has the sides closer to the algae to let it expand onto a little? For instant I have some left over acrylic can I make a 20" long 10" tall chamber with sides and bottom no top? And let my mesh hang down in the middle of it?How wide should it be?

And 2 -how long after starting my cycle should i start running it? I just started 3 days ago or so so my ammonia is still high- I assume it won't start working good until closer to the end if not even later?
 
Ok I've read this thread till my heads about to esplode-- after 40 pages or so I have two questions- is the basis behind a 3d scrubber just a water tight container that has the sides closer to the algae to let it expand onto a little? For instant I have some left over acrylic can I make a 20" long 10" tall chamber with sides and bottom no top? And let my mesh hang down in the middle of it?How wide should it be?

And 2 -how long after starting my cycle should i start running it? I just started 3 days ago or so so my ammonia is still high- I assume it won't start working good until closer to the end if not even later?

First, thank you for reading the entire thread!

1- on a basic level, yes... You can make a box, hang a screen, point light at it and you have made an algae scrubber... Just follow the specs for building one.

2- start your Algae scrubber asap. It is best to start your tank cycle with an algae scrubber. The growth chart will be a bit different starting with an empty tank. Starting a tank with an algae scrubber means you will never have a problem with algae in the display. So long as you follow the build instructions, I don't think you will ever start another tank without one.

I started my tank 8 months ago with an algae scrubber and I have never
 
I started with 23 watt bulbs and just grew algea inside pipes and bleached everything else.
cover your pipes?
if bleached, move light further instead of 4 inches, move it to 5inches or maybe 6inches.

whatever your design is, the principle remains.
 
cover your pipes?
if bleached, move light further instead of 4 inches, move it to 5inches or maybe 6inches.

whatever your design is, the principle remains.

Why move the bulbs father away when I can do the same work with less energy? And my lights don't move.
 
you said I need a 44" by 5.5" for a 210gallon
how high should I make it?
if my tube with the slot is 2" you think 3" wide will be fine?

I have endcaps and reflectors and a icecap 660 ballast

all I need so far is bulbs and screen

Yes, make the box 3" wide. That will be enough room for several 1" bulkheads on the bottom

And 2 -how long after starting my cycle should i start running it? I just started 3 days ago or so so my ammonia is still high- I assume it won't start working good until closer to the end if not even later?

Ammonia is algae's favorite 'food'. Start a tank with a scrubber, and you'll never 'see' the cycle, it will happen on a microscopic level and within the rockwork, but you won't test for any ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. Also mean that your LR that you buy from the store and transport wrapped in wet newspaper won't cause a huge ammonia bloom in your tank from die-off, and the campers attached to it stand a much better chance of survival.
 
First, thank you for reading the entire thread!

1- on a basic level, yes... You can make a box, hang a screen, point light at it and you have made an algae scrubber... Just follow the specs for building one.

2- start your Algae scrubber asap. It is best to start your tank cycle with an algae scrubber. The growth chart will be a bit different starting with an empty tank. Starting a tank with an algae scrubber means you will never have a problem with algae in the display. So long as you follow the build instructions, I don't think you will ever start another tank without one.

I started my tank 8 months ago with an algae scrubber and I have never


Quote:
Originally Posted by richierich2000
you said I need a 44" by 5.5" for a 210gallon
how high should I make it?
if my tube with the slot is 2" you think 3" wide will be fine?

I have endcaps and reflectors and a icecap 660 ballast

all I need so far is bulbs and screen

Yes, make the box 3" wide. That will be enough room for several 1" bulkheads on the bottom



should 3" wide be the standard width for best algea growth for all 3d scrubber?
 
Well mine is 1.75" and is does fine. 3" seems to make sense because most 1" bulkheads have a 2.65" diameter flange. So unless you want to cut the flange to make a thinner box (which I did on my first build) that is really the limiting factor. I used a male/female threaded connector and an o-ring.
 
Or, you can tap NPT threads in the bottom of the scrubber. I have 1 1/2" threaded holes and the inside dimension is 1 7/8".

I found the tap for $44 to my door on ebay.
 
Here is my 2nd harvest - this is great, I haven't had to clean my glass in a while and no brown stuff on my sand!!!

DSC06565.jpg
 
I was going to use carbon when I finally get rolling, but just read a thread implicating carbon as likely contributing to lateral line disease. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2007308&goto=newpost

I understand rinsing the algae after harvest is supposed to be key to maintaining water clarity. For those not using carbon, is your water really not yellowed? Can you put a piece of pure white plastic in the water and view it thruogh the length of your tank and the plastic still appears white? Not even a hint of yellow?
 
I haven't done the plastic test, but I have 2 other tanks that I maintain that I have yet to put a scrubber on, and when I do a PWC the water looks brownish/yellow when I dump a bucket in the toilet. The last time I did a PWC on the scrubber/reef tank, the water that I poured in the toilet was as clear as the water in the toilet. So to answer your question, not even a hint of yellow in that tank.

The 'yellow water' is really a very old carryover from the dump-bucket scrubbers that could not be easily cleaned away from the tank. That's why you hear people parroting the 'yellow water' and many other problems of the past.
 
Well that is a good indication, but not nearly as definitive as looking through several feet of water. I have to admit I'm a little skeptical, on the other hand I hope to be surprised.
 
Back
Top