Algae Scrubber Basics
- Thread starter srusso
- Start date
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Well after 3 weeks it seems to be doing well
So this is one of your screen sections, how do the other ones look? Is this one from the end, it looks like there was little growth along the one side. I remember you had 1000+ gallon system and a 24 x 48 build with 8 54W T5HOs on one side. Did you ever add lights to the second side?
I would like to see pictures of all the screens. This one looks like great growth, right on track for quick maturity.
klviper
Member
They all looked the same. I had scrapped the one side off (see white area) to give contrast. I still havent added the other light panel. I will probably do that this comming weekend if I get time. I just cleaned them before taking this pic so I will take pics of all of the screens next week before cleaning.
srusso
Active member
+1 will be fine
Wow, I don't see that kinda of growth at all and I'm on my second month. I was lucky to have some slime algae to scrape off this past week. I keep hoping for more growth each week. But the Hair algae in the display appears to be stunted... Not neccessarily dieing, but not growing rapidly either. However, the glass fills in with algae pretty fast...
I can scrape it and within 24-48 hours it's hard to see through the glass from all the film algae growing on the glass.
I can scrape it and within 24-48 hours it's hard to see through the glass from all the film algae growing on the glass.
Dave1NC
New member
FTR - I was wondering what your PO4 levels were. I know you've been running an ATS for a while now. Do you use a Hana tester?
My PO4 have been pretty low, but I am still running GFO and dosing MB7. This has worked well for me in the past and I will probably keep using it. I no longer add carbon.
I am with you Travis. Mine looks more like green slime than hair algae. I may get a few little tuffs of hair algae, but noting like that. I was also cleaned my screen with a hose the first couple of times, but used my fingers that last time.
TheFishMan65
New member
I believe the MB7 is counter productive to ATSs. MB7 is a bacteria culture. It has a load of bacteria that will take the nitrate and phosphates out of the water as the bacteria grow (just like the ATS), and the bacteria can then be removed with a skimmer. A lot of folks are using MB7 to start the bio pellets.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Is MB7 a carbon source? Carbon dosing has been shown to decrease scrubber growth.
I just took a water sample before cleaning the screen, haven't tested the PO4 yet. Will do tonight. I am still getting readings, they fluctuate from 0.09 to 0.13, and as high as 0.19 when I had a top-off water quality issue that I caught way too late. But testing with distilled water last time it read 0.03 so I don't know what to think about the Hanna tester. It does have a +/- 0.04 accuracy, pretty poor if you're trying to keep it below 0.04. They have a phosphorus meter now that goes in ppb instead of ppm
I just took a water sample before cleaning the screen, haven't tested the PO4 yet. Will do tonight. I am still getting readings, they fluctuate from 0.09 to 0.13, and as high as 0.19 when I had a top-off water quality issue that I caught way too late. But testing with distilled water last time it read 0.03 so I don't know what to think about the Hanna tester. It does have a +/- 0.04 accuracy, pretty poor if you're trying to keep it below 0.04. They have a phosphorus meter now that goes in ppb instead of ppm
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
double post
Dave1NC
New member
It was my understanding you need to start slow with the ATS. I didn't remove the skimmer until I cleaned the screen at least 4 times. I'll stop using MB7 and keep an eye on my parameters to see how things go. I also read some people still run GFO w/a ATS. Do you use GFO to rely totally on the scrubber to remove phos and nitra?
TheFishMan65
New member
As I understand it MB7 is not a carbon source. I will say it is a starter bacteria for those that want to dose carbon.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
The problem with running GFO is that it completely limits phosphate. With the ATS, one photon of light breaks down one molecule of Nitrate and one molecule of Phosphate, and creates one Chlorophyll. This is simplified but you get the idea. If you have no phosphate, then the algae growth is phosphate limited, and you may still end up with some nitrates in the tank because it cannot take them up without phosphate present.
If you're going to run GFO and and Algae Scrubber, then you need to
1) put the algae scrubber first
2) reduce the flow on the GFO to very, very low
Let the scrubber do the bulk of the work. Think of the GFO as your secondary filter, not the other way around. If for some reason the Algae Scrubber doesn't take it all the way down (maybe you over fed or you kid dumped a bunch of food in the tank, or you had a water quality issue like I did) then you have a secondary means of lowering your phosphate. It also acts as a primary means to buffer it down to minimal, while not completely removing it. The algae provides a vast array of nutrients that corals thrive on, so you want it growing and filtering and self-dosing.
If you're going to run GFO and and Algae Scrubber, then you need to
1) put the algae scrubber first
2) reduce the flow on the GFO to very, very low
Let the scrubber do the bulk of the work. Think of the GFO as your secondary filter, not the other way around. If for some reason the Algae Scrubber doesn't take it all the way down (maybe you over fed or you kid dumped a bunch of food in the tank, or you had a water quality issue like I did) then you have a secondary means of lowering your phosphate. It also acts as a primary means to buffer it down to minimal, while not completely removing it. The algae provides a vast array of nutrients that corals thrive on, so you want it growing and filtering and self-dosing.
bshumake
New member
Tell cooper to keep his hands out of your tank!
Copper (Cu2+) will be a problem as it's an algaecide. It will kill off algae wherever it grows in the system.
You plan to run a ATS on a FO quarentine? Why? A quarentine is only for intermittant use. An ATS is permanent, as in, you don't plan on removing it. A quarentine would have the minimum equipment necessary to maintain that small unit for a limited time.
And contrary to popular belief, Cu2+ does not permanently contaminate equipment forever.
Copper (Cu2+) will be a problem as it's an algaecide. It will kill off algae wherever it grows in the system.
You plan to run a ATS on a FO quarentine? Why? A quarentine is only for intermittant use. An ATS is permanent, as in, you don't plan on removing it. A quarentine would have the minimum equipment necessary to maintain that small unit for a limited time.
And contrary to popular belief, Cu2+ does not permanently contaminate equipment forever.
Well, since I don't know a cooper, you're right, he should keep his hands out of my tank!
I know a QT is temporary. I just like the idea of a scrubber, so I figured why not, now I know...thanks.
You are correct, copper doesn't damage permanently. I was able to pull it out of everything (rock, sand, etc) and now have coral.
bshumake
New member
So I wanted to wait till tomorrow when I update my ATS Week 2 progress but I was really suprised the change in HA color with adding one more light, per requests from thread followers. I added a second CF and aimed it at the front of the screen, moving me previous CF to the back side. Color me impressed!
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Copper does not permanently contaminate equipment, as most of the copper can be removed by soaking and scrubbing with vinegar. Acrylic tanks may absorb copper and thus cause a toxic effect to surface inverts (snails) thus making it uninhabitable for snails, unless you polish the interior surface. Silicone seals will likely release copper over time, but it will diminish. The use of those adsorbant pads (can't remember what they're called) will help remove the trace amount.
Live rock, however, will be permanently done in by copper treatment. Good only for FO w/o CUC after exposure to copper.
Algae Scrubbers will remove heavy metals, including copper, but really only when it is well below treatment levels. Any normal treatment level of copper will wipe out the screen. I don't know what the uptake rate and upper limit of copper presence is, but it's probably out there somewhere, buried in some study. I'll add it to the list of things to test in my copious spare time.
Live rock, however, will be permanently done in by copper treatment. Good only for FO w/o CUC after exposure to copper.
Algae Scrubbers will remove heavy metals, including copper, but really only when it is well below treatment levels. Any normal treatment level of copper will wipe out the screen. I don't know what the uptake rate and upper limit of copper presence is, but it's probably out there somewhere, buried in some study. I'll add it to the list of things to test in my copious spare time.
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