alright who is the man?

Damn,

I am about to cry. :) it is nice to see people taking an interest and responding. I hope to pull through all this and give these animals a good life for a change. I am going to get the items I need to start dripping lime water so I can get this pH up. This has always been an issue I know that for a fact.
 
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Hey Andy,

Here is a link to sunnyx's tank that I talked about. You should read through it. He breaks a lot of rules that others swear by and gets TOTM results! For the record he runs his salinity @ 1.028 as he feels it makes his skimmer work better. You should also take a look at his old TOTM tank. It is one of the best I have seen.
 
Great link, Chris. Vodka dosing is definitely the next step for my tank, I believe. Specifically after I get my new skimmer. :)

Brandon
 
The ultimate problem with your post title is illustrated in the following graph (consider undergrads to be new hobbyists and Ph.D.'s to be the grizzled veterans you are looking for).

phd081508s.gif

In short, anyone who has been in this hobby for any length of time is fully aware that they can't possibly ever know everything and have trouble considering themselves experts... no matter how successful their tanks.

Now to answer the actual post :)

I know crumbletop and c_stowers "borrowed" some VU lab equipment and mixed up some very accurate calibration solution for the club a while back for a refractometer meeting. I don't know if crumbletop has any left, but it was very helpful in getting mine set. I have mostly only recalibrated when I've accidentally dropped the thing or something stupid like that, but they easily get off a bit with rough handling. You may not need a new refractometer, just a better solution for calibrating (from what I've heard, pinpoint solutions aren't as reliable as they would like you to believe).

On the pH issue, I had some major problems with it (2 people, 3 cats, and a 270 gallon tank in a townhouse with only a few fairly new windows, where we always ran the AC). If you are noticing the pH dropping when people are in the room, it seems likely your tank area may not be ventilated well enough.

I'm not sure what you've tried in this area, but if you've got enough C02 built up in your house, no amount of buffering and/or pickling lime is going to fully address the issue without causing some other ones (e.g., pickling lime will drive up your Ca too and it will likely cause it to be too high). Not to mention that if your pH is really low when your tank lights have been on all day (and the algae in your tank has been using C02 and creating oxygen for a few hours -raising pH), then your pH is probably RIDICULOUSLY low in the morning just before your lights come on. Test it then and you might just cry... I know I wanted to.

My ultimate solution was to run the air intake of my skimmer out of a window to bring in outside air. This resulted in an immediate and sustained (even at night) pH increase of .2, which immediately brought my tank into the recommended range. It still flagged a bit at night toward the lower end of the recommended range, but it certainly was better. Check out a blog I started (and ran out of time for) for some info I put up on house C02 problems (http://reefnook.com/blogs/DMBillies/reef-tank-aeration-from-outside-2008/)

Finally... on the t5 bulb... what company is the actinic bulb from? And when it is said to look white, is it also dimmer? I had a couple of bad UVI Super Actinics and I wouldn't say they looked white/purple really, but they did start to look whiter as the output dropped (since the bulbs are a frosted white color).

Edit: And I could be mistaken, but I think that lowering your salinity will also tend lower lower your pH/alkalinity. Since you've already got low pH, you might try to address the pH issue first (or at least simultaneously). Your salinity is high, but I would guess the pH is a much more pressing issue when it comes to the health of your corals.
 
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Also list what type of bulbs you have I have found that going with higher end bulbs helps on algae I use geismans but there may be a few better ones but I know you do not want to use the daylight or 6.5k bulbs
 
I use ATI Bulbs and One UV lighting bulb
1 x 54W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent (ATI1005) by ATI
3 x 54W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent (ATI1013) by ATI
1 x 54W True Actinic 03 T5 HO Fluorescent (ATI1029) by ATI
1 x 54W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent (UVL0005) by UV Lighting

ATI Bulbs are cream of the crop. Not too hip on the UVL bulbs I may replace it. I have tried this aquasun and their Super Actinic. I really didn't like the super actinic very pink in coloration.

All Bulbs are run on two icecap 660's with icecap reflectors.

This setup was recommended and /or approved by GrimReefer, SunnyX, and Greg at Reefgeek.

This setup looks pretty good to me. It is a little on the blue side which seems to be the way most people run their T5's. It is extremely bright but nothing any more drastic that anyone else who is running HO T5's. It is hard for anyone to judge T5's that have not run them or seen them in person. THEY ARE BRIGHT.

All of this aside I am thinking one of my main issues is my low pH.

DMBillies, can you tell me how you ran tubing from your skimmer out of your window? The tubing that my skimmer came with is a flexible whitish silicone type tubing. I know that description is highly technical but it is about the best I can do. I would need about 15 feet of this stuff to acheive that and I am not sure how I would deal with the window being slightly cracked at all times. Seems to me that would cause even more issues.
 
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OK Here goes, I've been waiting to comment on this thread due to the nature of the Expert Status that might be applied! Well I see that Andy has found Two problems already and the high salinity is a problem that is easily fixed. The low PH as mentioned by Brian to bring fresh air to your skimmer is a good way to raise your PH some, The other thing I would suggest is to not use PH buffer but rather get to the real cause of the low PH problem. As warmer weather approaches and windows are opened your PH will rise most likely! Your KH could be a little higher and when that goes up so will your PH, I would raise your KH with Liquid reef builder and I'll bet your PH will also get a boost from that adjustment. I use Mrs Wages and have for years, That being said you must be careful and know what you are doing. I mix about 1tsp per gal of RODI water in a 5 gal water jug from the LFS with a spicket and slowly drip this mix only at night after lights out to replace my evaporated water daily. I also run a Ca Reactor but have a high SPS load. I guess the next Item would be Po4 ? How much is the cause for your Algae issues, Without a really good test you can't be sure so I suggest you run some sort of media to strip any you might have from your system. Next I would cut your feeding regiment in half until the Algae is under control, Your fish wont starve to death! Next I would cut the lighting back to no more than 6hrs a day until you see less Algae growth. It was not mentioned weather you use Chaeto in your Fuge or not, You should if not. And light your fuge opposite your tank that will also help keep your PH up at night along with dripping calk these should help with keeping your PH stable. I guess the best advice to me is Stability will bring sucess to your tank. Well my name is Bill and I'm a reef aholic!
 
Thanks for the tips. I hope that some of you are just ribbing me now as I have apologized for the title of the thread. I didn't mean to exclude or anger anyone. The reality is that the problems I have are not basic and I felt that I needed people who are a little more "experienced" to help. Nothing more nothing less. I will email a mod to see if they can change the title but I need to come up with something that will not offend/exclude anyone it seems.

Andy coming out verified two things. One was known one was not. I was already aware of my low pH. This tank is fairly new and I am still trying to get things under control. I have always run on the low end of pH. It is worse on this tank for some reason. I have been talking with Randy Holmes-Farley trying to get this under control. He recommended kalk and I am going to start that soon.

The high salinity was not known. According to my refractometer I was right on the money at 1.026. I recalibrated against Andy's and hopefully this will get me on the right track.

After reading your post poolkeeper I thiink I will drop my lighting duration back tonight and see how that goes. I can accomplish that instantly.

as for algae issues I don't think I have them. After going over the problem with Randy and a few other people I don't believe it to be an algae at all. One person suggests it is a fungus as it lack chlorophyl. It is invasive and is a coral killer. All this time I have been trying to fight algae it seems that isn't algae at all. I ran chaeto and it died (lack of nutrients I suspect) while this "fungus" thrived.

I ran a ULNS (bacteria and carbon dosing) for months that had no effect on the "algae" in my previous tank. If anything the corals became even more unhealthy as a result of reducing a limited nutrient tank even more. So I cooked the rocks (if you don't know what this is do a search and read up on it).

I will try and put all this into better order upon getting my thread together. That may take me a few days as there is a lot to tell.

If it isn't clear after this post as to why I felt that I needed someone with more "experience" to help with the issues in my tank I don't know what to tell you. I have tried everything under the sun and my corals are just barely hanging in there.
 
It's pretty nice out today, Try opening your house up to fresh air for the day. If that alone raises your PH your problem is excess Co2. Sorry I missed your Fungus comment, Have you tried scrubbing this off or any type of medication? Is it similar to red Cyno? Do you dose any Amino Acids or the like ? As randy would say do you have any proof It is a Fungus or are you assuming? I am just trying to get you to keep an open mind! Last but not least have you considered replacing all the rock? My last tank that what I finally did to resolve Losing coral all the time. I do understand the logic of Cooking rock but I'm not sold on It's effectivesness. Personally I think If you get all your parameters in line and give it time to adjust to the new conditions you will see improvement. Sometimes It's the simple things that are overlooked that make the most difference. Lastly I've had great sucess with ULNS based tank, Good growth and great color.
 
Dang near impossible to scrub off. You can't see it out of the water. I only dose B-ionic. The fungus is nothing like cyano. It is probably more similar to dino's but it doesn't look like the pics of dino's I have seen. It is however sticky and gummy like them.

I have no proof that it is fungus, algae or anything else. All I know is that my tank is low nutrient (corals are pale) and this stuff thrives no matter what I do. ULNS, tons of GFO changed constantly, etc. etc.


I raise my window at night and put a fan in it to blow in lots of air (providing the temp is right) and pH doesn't raise a whole lot.

I have considered replacing the rock. I told that to Andy yesterday. I will give it time and then decide.

I would love to come and check your tank out. Sounds like a nice setup.
 
Too bad Chris Stowers has left he could take it to vandy and Id it in the labs. I would think there is a lab some place that could ID it. That is normally the hardest part and then you can see what kills it. I am no science major but it would be nice to see it done. Chris "fishdock" and Matt over on the east are two I would think may be able to give you who can do it.
 
CeeGee, Anytime you want to come over is fine with me I'll PM you my # so you can call. I would also like to see yours in person so I can make sure It's the same as Angela's crud. Wish I had more to offer!
 
I look forward to it. I really appreciate your input thus far. Feel free to call me and come by anytime. I am sending pm.
 

DMBillies, can you tell me how you ran tubing from your skimmer out of your window? The tubing that my skimmer came with is a flexible whitish silicone type tubing. I know that description is highly technical but it is about the best I can do. I would need about 15 feet of this stuff to acheive that and I am not sure how I would deal with the window being slightly cracked at all times. Seems to me that would cause even more issues.
Click to expand...

Well, my MRC had a threaded connector for silencing the air intake, so I used some female threaded plumbing parts.

I would just take the tubing you have, take it with you to HD or Lowe's (I actually prefer Lowe's for plumbing options) and find clear vinyl tubing with an ID the matches the OD of the rubber tubing you have... then just jam it inside of the vinyl tubing a few inches. It doesn't really need to be a super airtight seal since there will be no resistance on the air intake side.

I'd recommend creating an air filter to go inline with the vinyl tubing (to help filter the air in case pesticides get sprayed outside, to keep out other air pollutants, and to make sure your intake doesn't suck up bugs or other nasties). To do that, I'd buy a couple of darts that match the vinyl tubing (input and output side of the filter), some adapters to get you up to a 1.5" slip fit, and a few inches of 1.5" pipe. Take some screen and/or cotton balls to line the ends of the chamber and fill the chamber with regular old fish filter carbon. That should help "soak up" bad stuff in the air.

I don't know how often you really need to change the carbon, but carbon isn't too expensive and you probably should run at least a little in your system, so sacrificing some every couple of months shouldn't be a big deal. Just make sure you don't increase the amount of resistance for air flowing through the tubing much at all (really, unless you really compact the cotton balls, you shouldn't have much problem with this).

On the going out the window issue, I just got a small piece of wood, drilled a hole through it that would tightly fit the vinyl tubing, put some weather stripping on the top and bottom of the wood, jammed it under my window, and put a dowel rod between the top of the window pane and the top molding at the top of the window opening (to "lock" the window). This was pretty "rigged", but we kept our blinds closed in that room all of the time because of our TV, so you couldn't see it, the window could still not be opened, we rented so we couldn't go for more drastic options, and it was very cheap/easy to accomplish.


That "fungus" you have is very weird. First thing, fungi tend to thrive in low pH environments, so raising your pH can't hurt there.

I'm also curious, since I do believe your tank is very low nutrient especially if you're using GFO and were dosing carbon, whether you've got any coralline growth? Coralline is a calcifying algae so just like your corals it will not be able to lay down the calcium carbonate needed to grow when the water is too acidic and just like any plant needs certain nutrients to thrive. My guess is, the fungus, which can grow well in a low pH environment is helping to use up what little nutrients are available in the tank. Also of interest is the fact that fungi actually emit C02 as they "feed" instead of fixing it like algae. I'm not sure the extent to which this could realistically be influencing your pH, but it can't possibly be helping matters.

Your clean-up crew doesn't touch the fungus?

Since you've established that it probably isn't algae (and it certainly doesn't look like one to me), again I'd start by raising your pH. Then coralline and other film algaes will have a better chance of competing against the fungus (or whatever it is). If your corals are pale, you might also reduce your striving for a really low nutrient tank. After all, corals and most of the animals in your tank need a certain amount of food to thrive, you're just trying to remove the leftovers before it breaks down and can feed a huge algae bloom. In your case, if you get the pH straightened out you might be able to use moderate coralline growth to compete against the fungus and help slowly reduce the amount of the fungus in your system.

That seems crazy, I know, but my hunch is that you aren't getting any coralline and probably very little other film type algae growth. That could be exacerbated by the fact that everything is covered with this fungus which undoubtedly has a defense mechanism to prevent getting easily crowded out by other species (so those good types of algaes don't have anywhere to settle and get a foothold). So... what I'm really proposing is a balancing act... which is really all any of our tanks are. Not all algae growth is bad and coralline is especially desirable because it prevents other nastier algaes (like hair algae and hopefully, for your case, this weird fungus) from being able to settle the substrate.

Edit: If you're blowing a fan in your window at night and not seeing an increase in pH relative to nights were you aren't (you need to test at the same time), the c02 in your house may not be the problem. I'd recommend the cup of water trick I talked about in my blog. Test your tank water in a cup, walk outside, stir the water really hard for a few minutes, then walk back inside and test the pH again. It would be even better if you could do it in the morning and at night. That will give you the best indication of how much you can expect your pH to rise as a result of outside aeration. In my case, it was a pretty stable .2 regardless of the time of day, which is fairly significant...
 
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Brian,

Great post!!!!!!! You hit a couple of great points. I will post back this evening if I keep typing here I will lose my job :)
 
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