Anemones still in decline

timrandlerv10

New member
My two BTAs are still in decline...they've been declining for about six weeks now. Originally, one got a small stomach eversion--about 3/4" of its stomach was balled up outside its mouth. About two weeks later, the other got the same thing. Until Friday their color had been ok, but not eating and they had shrunk to about 1/3 their normal size--they're about 6" across now and laying flat on the rocks.

When I came in to the office Saturday I could tell one was bleached. Its not any worse today, but it certainly isnt any better. They both still have about 1" bubbles of stomach hanging out.

Current stats:
amm/ites/ates 0/0/0
ph 8.3 (was as low as 7.7, but i've been using kalk to slowly bring it back up--I would say I dose about a cup every few hours of 1/4 tsp to 1 qt of ro/di...only one dose on Sunday, 2 on Saturday, maybe 3 or 4 during the week)
ca ~400 (hard for me to tell, was as low as 330 last week, and i've been using calcium carbonate to raise it...dosing a small amount every day for the last 5 or 6...dont know how i let that get away...)
mg 1250 last test (2 weeks)
alk 12 (was as high as 13...had been using reef buffer 8.3 which helped the ph but caused the alk to get up to 13...when i discontinued the ph fell to 7.7, so now i'm venting the office, running additional aeration in the tank, put another light on the sump 24/7 and not supplementing alk til its back down to 11)
phosphates undetectable
1.024
approx 100 -110 gallons of water volume in a 75g display with 55g sump

major disturbances over the last two months:
long spiny urchin disappeared, presumed dead--never saw a body.
moved the tank 9 days ago from one office to another (did a 20G water change the day after moving)
heater failed off, temp got as low as 72 before we found out and replaced it, took another 6-8 hours to get back up to 78
the above chemical variances--most of which were last week after the move

these disturbances all occurred after the nems started their stomach distension. i've increased the amount of time the MY lights are on to about 6-8 hours a day (from 3-4), and although the nems seamed to respond positively to that, their stomachs were still distended.


ive got a quart of charcoal here--i was thinking of going to get a filter sock and filling it with a 1/4 qt of new charcoal every 12 hours to see if there's something i can't test for in there.

water sources: 5 stage spectrapure filter for ro/di. instant ocean and reef crystals salt. some ro/di and salt water from john's.

had been dosing chelated iron (to make sure iron isnt the limiting factor in macroalgae growth--still have some hair algae and i'd like to keep it minimized), vitamins, marine snow, trace elements. feed ora glow pellets, formula one flake, some other random pellets and seafood buffet from the oriental store (blended, adding garlic, spirulina, vitamins).

other inhabitants are a wall hammer, branching frogspawn, gsm pair, halimeda, caluerpa, blue leg crabs, snails, mushrooms, kenya tree, and something that looks like a 2" brownish-green ricordea that i think somebody in the club (mariner?) gave me (he/you gave me 3, we put two in adam's tank).

HIS anemone also started to decline after mine did, and has also died since then. things that go in both tanks:
water
salt
our hands
office air
long tongs that we've since broken and thrown away
all chemicals
food

on a daily basis, there is very very little cross contamination besides water.


HELP!!!
 
I don't know much about anemone, but it sounds like they went through some stressful events.

I would not use a buffer in a reef tank, even if it's called Reef Buffer. It keeps pH stable (that's what a buffer is all about), but sure cause havoc with alkalinity if you start using kalk or other alkalinity raising materials such as baking soda on top of it.

Alkalinity swing is probably one of the most stressful things for corals and inverts. A big drop in alk got my SPS's to turn really drab looking when a huge amount of excess top off water was added to my 120 accidentally due to a leak in the calcium reactor system.

In any event, I recommend that you try to keep your tank as stable as possible until someone more knowledgeable about anemone chimes in here. Don't add anything for awhile except for top-off water.
 
Tim, my experience with anemones is that they are a bit like cranky old people - they don't like any kind of changes and I suspect yours may be feeling overwhelmed by so many changes in such a short period of time. My best advice would be to just let things settle down for a while; then start working on getting the params where you want them very gradually - so gradually that the anemones don't even notice. Less than perfect conditions are better for a while than adding more stress by constantly changing things. It very well could be the changes, rather than any particular value, that they are reacting to.
I have a BTA that has been with me over 5 years and two tank upgrades, and both times after the moves he has not only seemed to decline for about two weeks but he even split from the stress. Currently he is now three – himself and two clones. Under stress, mine also seems to prefer less light for a while as well, so again, I wouldn't add any to the photoperiod at this point either.
Steady water conditions and slow changes will give him the best chance to recuperate. Good luck.
 
unfortunately they were in decline before all those events (talk about me not helping :( )

i've even put off the next water change because i'm nervous about the water and the salt...

if there were something in the tank--from a broken di membrane or something that wasnt being filtered--how would i know, and how would i get it out of the water?
 
If you are worried about RO membrane or DI resin, check your TDS. If it reads zero, you don't need to worry about your water.
 
I have had good luck with anenomes over the years.They are very touchy when it comes to change of any sort.Mine even get mad when I move some thing and change water current slightly.I know most people use R/O water now adays but R/oO systems remove things out of the water that they need.In reading Clown fishes by Joyce Wilkerson she recomends useing dechlorinated Tap water when keeping them.There agin everyone has their preference.Mine to date have and are doing great.It's hard to bring one back from a decline but it can be done.All i can say is leave it be and keep tank steady and with some luck it will bouncs back.
Jason
 
I would give them more light ime and check your bulbs. My anemones like light and they respong negatively to lack of good light.

How old r bulbs?
 
TDS is zero. if you're comfortable that a zero tds means its ok, i feel a lot better about it.

the bulbs are old, but given i have 2 actinic, 2 super actinic (T5) and 2 x 150 14k (i think) MH, would spectrum shift really be an issue? there's a lot of differing spectrums already...

i guess i could replace one mh and see if one started to recover?
 
How old are the bulbs and what is the brand?Most replace bulbs around 12 mnths.They may still be burning but not in proper spectrum.If they ae less than a year old I would'nt replace them.
1.you would be wasting money replacing good bulbs
2.the spectrum change real fast with out light acclimation may do more harm than good.
Just food for thought.I am sure there are people who disagree with my methods but they have been good for me,but everyone is different.
 
I don't know the sequence of the event with your calcium and ph dropping and alk rising, but I suspect that your alk might have reached even higher than 13. It might have caused your calcium to precipitate and brought down pH and alk down to 13. I don't think it's the lack of ventilation or the CO2 level that brought down your pH suddenly.

I would not use any alkaline material including kalk for now. Let your alkalinity coast down on its own.

If your animal is bleaching, I am not sure if it's such a good idea to change lighting, either. After all, the most stable thing in your tank might be the light which is only gradually changing. Stability is very important. Eric Borneman once said that corals normally don't care what color the light is as long as they get enough of it (PAR).

I suggest that you leave them alone for awhile. You can make the matters worse by reacting to a small change and overcompensating it.
 
About two weeks of nothing, and bleached nem
is looking better. I am adding just a few more minutes of light every day.

Their stomachs are still 'ejected.'
 
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