Another 225 Tank Project!

Thanks for the response, im afraid you will have to excuse my inpatience.... I like to look at the pictures more then read :lol: . anyways great set-up i hope my next tank can add up to yours. Great job

Travis
 
sweet

sweet

I have the same tank coming next week through jeffs,yellow freight broke the first one so i am waiting for a replacement (impatiently) I am not wanting to build my stand until the tank arrives were your measurements exactly 72x30x24? I bought a hamilton hood with 2 250 10k and 165 watt vhox2 6 footers with fans at both end and went with electronic ballasts (man are they bright!) I went with jeffs south bay 8-2 skimmer and the southbay calcium reactor and ph controller/probe. Iwaki 100rlt pump and jeffs pro sump 70 gals (i think) I have 330 pounds of kaelini curing now (nice stuff!) and 200 pounds of tonga live sand. We just built a new house and i had the electricians run 2-20amp dedicated gfci circuits where the tank will sit. I also tiled the spot where the tank will sit. I like your idea of spraying the stand but im not sure it would last. (sure hate to have to try to blend paint if someone crashes into my stand!) Im planning on using 6 6x6 posts for my frame with 2x6's inter connecting them. I can truly appreciate the way you have routed your cables and plumbing (im an ex car audio guy and a home theatre freak!):cool:
 
Re: sweet

Re: sweet

Reefrunner262 said:
Thanks for the response, im afraid you will have to excuse my inpatience.... I like to look at the pictures more then read :lol: . anyways great set-up i hope my next tank can add up to yours. Great job

Travis

lol - Travis, I do the same exact thing......skim the thread for pics ;)




barnacle bill said:
I have the same tank coming next week through jeffs,yellow freight broke the first one so i am waiting for a replacement (impatiently) I am not wanting to build my stand until the tank arrives were your measurements exactly 72x30x24? I bought a hamilton hood with 2 250 10k and 165 watt vhox2 6 footers with fans at both end and went with electronic ballasts (man are they bright!) I went with jeffs south bay 8-2 skimmer and the southbay calcium reactor and ph controller/probe. Iwaki 100rlt pump and jeffs pro sump 70 gals (i think) I have 330 pounds of kaelini curing now (nice stuff!) and 200 pounds of tonga live sand. We just built a new house and i had the electricians run 2-20amp dedicated gfci circuits where the tank will sit. I also tiled the spot where the tank will sit. I like your idea of spraying the stand but im not sure it would last. (sure hate to have to try to blend paint if someone crashes into my stand!) Im planning on using 6 6x6 posts for my frame with 2x6's inter connecting them. I can truly appreciate the way you have routed your cables and plumbing (im an ex car audio guy and a home theatre freak!):cool:

Thanks Bill! Congrades on the tank.... I work for several famous frieght companies in my teens, I can definatly see it happening!

The tank measurements we a 1/16" under all the way around, I actually measure it at the shop before I took it home to make sure...since I had already built the stand, but it I could of went back and changed the stand since it was still rough frame.

I also going with dedicated 2 x 20 amp breakers, no more toaster tripping the tank light...how annoying that was!

Im going with 2 coats prime (52% solid), a few coats of the black, and definatly a few coats of poly, or some wort of hardend sealer.... most of the cabinet is door, so I can remove them if they get dinged. When done, it should be pretty thick!

6x6...damn, that will definatly support it!

Cable and plumbing, Im just taking my time and doing it right, these tanks become such a mess under the stand!

Are you going with DSB, fuge?

You have to post the thead so I can follow! :D
 
Platapus,

I'm am in awe of your setup. I've been lurking throughout this whole thread, but just had to chime in here.

Regarding your surge, is it quiet?

I saw that you insulated the whole thing for noise. Did you try it with all your pumps, skimmer, etc running in there? Do you still hear them?
 
dsb,fuge

dsb,fuge

Naw no dsb just enough to cover the bottom real good (2") and yes i will run a fuge but with live rock in it instead of sand and of course caulipera. I will post of my progress when i start the stand and try to figure out the digital picture thing (never done it) to keep you posted. Thanks for the inspiration! :D
 
tang_man_montreal said:
Platapus,

I'm am in awe of your setup. I've been lurking throughout this whole thread, but just had to chime in here.

Regarding your surge, is it quiet?

I saw that you insulated the whole thing for noise. Did you try it with all your pumps, skimmer, etc running in there? Do you still hear them?

I havent got al of it insulated.....some of the insulatin goes after paint. .... Im just doing all that I can to make it as quiet as possible.

The surge isnt as load as I thought it would be. Just at the end when the siphon breaks.!
 
Looking good, can't wait to see it finished.

I am hoping to place the order for my tank of the same size in the next week or so. I am just finalizing some details. Unfortunately the carpentry is probably a bit out of my league so I will be buying a stand and canopy from the tank manufacturer - big $$$. But I'm hoping I can handle the electrical and plumbing myself.

Speaking of electrial - I can't figure out how you guys can manage with only 2 20 amp circuits. I'm looking at 4 15 amp circuits, not counting a dedicated one for a chiller if I need one. I may be estimating the amps a little high for safety but I'm not off that much. And I included everything I might possibly want in the future to be sure it could handle it. I'll have to take another look at it.

Mickey
 
Platapus,

I am about to add two valves to the ends of my 1" pipes that drain the over flow into my sump. I have 3 1" pipes sending water to my sump with 2 mag 12's. (lot of water) i.e. a lot of noise.

I plan to do this in order to raise the water level in my over flow and reduce the noise.

Do you think it will work OK?
 
2 x 20 Amps is more that Im going to need.

Light = 8.6 AMPs (2x250 watts + 2x 140 watts)
Circ pump = 1.3 (AM3000, they say .9 - 1.1)
Skimmers = 2.2 amps (MAG 2400)
Surge = .8 amp (MAG 9.5)
Calc Re = .36 amp (Mag2 + MJ1200)
Kalk Rea = .2 amp (MAG2)
Fuge Light = .5 amp (60watt)

Total = 13.96 amps

Plus a bunch of little stuff, Cabinet lights, laptop, topoff solenoid.

Maybe Im missing something....it is still early in the morning? :mixed:

Lets see a break down of your electrical consumption that requires 60 amps

I used this formula
http://bugclub.org/beginners/math/WattsVoltsAmps.html



MickeyDee said:
Looking good, can't wait to see it finished.

I am hoping to place the order for my tank of the same size in the next week or so. I am just finalizing some details. Unfortunately the carpentry is probably a bit out of my league so I will be buying a stand and canopy from the tank manufacturer - big $$$. But I'm hoping I can handle the electrical and plumbing myself.

Speaking of electrial - I can't figure out how you guys can manage with only 2 20 amp circuits. I'm looking at 4 15 amp circuits, not counting a dedicated one for a chiller if I need one. I may be estimating the amps a little high for safety but I'm not off that much. And I included everything I might possibly want in the future to be sure it could handle it. I'll have to take another look at it.

Mickey
:mixed:
 
Mexican Hermit said:
Platapus,

I am about to add two valves to the ends of my 1" pipes that drain the over flow into my sump. I have 3 1" pipes sending water to my sump with 2 mag 12's. (lot of water) i.e. a lot of noise.

I plan to do this in order to raise the water level in my over flow and reduce the noise.

Do you think it will work OK?


I would use durso stand pipes with valves at the top of the durso to adjust the air intake.... This way your restricting the air flow to cut down the noise rather that your water flow. It you restrict your water flow with valves, and for any reason something gets wedge in the pipe at the valve you are going to need some towels.

IMO
 
I am about to add two valves to the ends of my 1" pipes that drain the over flow into my sump. I have 3 1" pipes sending water to my sump with 2 mag 12's. (lot of water) i.e. a lot of noise.
I plan to do this in order to raise the water level in my over flow and reduce the noise.
Do you think it will work OK?

DO NOT do this. My tank recently crashed because I had a valve on the return for the same reason. While I was at work something got caught in the drain pipe and my tank overflowed. All of the water was replaced with a milky solution of kalkwasser from my reactor. Here is the link: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310898
 
BTW, why can't I select a whole post to be quoted? When I highlight the whole thing, only the first paragraph that is highlighted shows up in the quote. Never had this problem before. Any suggestions?
 
Travis said:
DO NOT do this. My tank recently crashed because I had a valve on the return for the same reason. While I was at work something got caught in the drain pipe and my tank overflowed. All of the water was replaced with a milky solution of kalkwasser from my reactor. Here is the link: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310898

Just click the quote button.... no hilight.

Yea - the valves to restrict flow just dont seem like a good idea..... sounld like you have proof of that :eek:
 
Platapus,
Fabulous work! I have a question about your canopy, if you don't mind my asking. How will you keep the interior lighting from bleeding out around the doors? I am building a canopy for my 150 and I would love to have doors on the front for convenient access to the lights without having to lift the whole top of the canopy on hinges. I am unsure how to keep the canopy from bleeding light. I had thought that a thin layer of felt where the doors meet the canopy would help, but I am worried about corrosion in the hot, humid interior.

Thanks!
 
Wookiee said:
Platapus,
Fabulous work! I have a question about your canopy, if you don't mind my asking. How will you keep the interior lighting from bleeding out around the doors? I am building a canopy for my 150 and I would love to have doors on the front for convenient access to the lights without having to lift the whole top of the canopy on hinges. I am unsure how to keep the canopy from bleeding light. I had thought that a thin layer of felt where the doors meet the canopy would help, but I am worried about corrosion in the hot, humid interior.

Thanks!

Good point! - The door flush mount the canopy...for no, and the over lap the opening about an 1". Additionaly, the lights are tucked away in in the fixture housing, so all I have to content with is indirectlighting. The doors are adjustable outwards to a 1/4" so I have thought of using 1/8" weather stripping. I will tackle it once up in the house. I dont foresee a major ptoblems with it.
 
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