(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

katchupoy said:
Yes this is good.



If you are asking one driver that is dimmable for each 12 LED's strip, and the answer is "yes".

If you are asking about one dimmer (10 volts) signal? and the answer is "no". You can use one 10 volt power adapter (at least 1 amp) for all 6 drivers you have.



I hope this helps.

wiringdiag.jpg
Click to expand...
Katchup,
This is a very well done thread. Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts.
I have a question in regard with your circuit diagram. If I want to put timers on each 12-led unit, what should I do with the 10V supply ? Should it be always on or can it be switched on at the same time with one of the 12-led unit? Or in another word, does it has to be on before any unit turned on? I know this is a silly question. :sad2:
I may plan doing a similar thing with my 75g tank replacing some of the T5s. I like the modular concept that I can upgrade easily later. Now I am in the information collecting phase.
 
westreef said:
Katchup,
This is a very well done thread. Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts.
I have a question in regard with your circuit diagram. If I want to put timers on each 12-led unit, what should I do with the 10V supply ? Should it be always on or can it be switched on at the same time with one of the 12-led unit? Or in another word, does it has to be on before any unit turned on? I know this is a silly question. :sad2:
I may plan doing a similar thing with my 75g tank replacing some of the T5s. I like the modular concept that I can upgrade easily later. Now I am in the information collecting phase.
Click to expand...

I hardwired my 10V supply on the blue AC side, since this is the one first one to light on and the last. Hardwired in a sense, splice both blue driver AC and 10 V supply AC together so that it goes out of the box as one. If not, just plug them on the same timer (blue)

Hope this helps.
 
katchupoy said:
I hardwired my 10V supply on the blue AC side, since this is the one first one to light on and the last. Hardwired in a sense, splice both blue driver AC and 10 V supply AC together so that it goes out of the box as one. If not, just plug them on the same timer (blue)

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks, very clear.
 
Well another change of plans in my game plan. My VHO setup died and couldn't get the LEDs quickly enough so went out and bought a Nova Extreme Pro to hold me over.

Now this has me thinking..... I'm getting ready to tear into the NEP so that I can retro fit it into my canopy. How do you think using T5HO as my actinics would do and using LEDs for white? (6) 36" T5HO actinics which I could turn off 3 at a time if need be and then 24 XP-Gs for the white on two drivers and dimmable? I think this might be a good setup......
 
Quick question for those who know:

Would a 1w or even a .5w resistor be enough power capacity for the dimming circuit? What about the pot? Most of the linear taper pots I find in the $2.00 range are .5w (when they give a power rating).
 
Awesome

Awesome

westreef said:
Katchup,
This is a very well done thread. Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts.
I have a question in regard with your circuit diagram. If I want to put timers on each 12-led unit, what should I do with the 10V supply ? Should it be always on or can it be switched on at the same time with one of the 12-led unit? Or in another word, does it has to be on before any unit turned on? I know this is a silly question. :sad2:
I may plan doing a similar thing with my 75g tank replacing some of the T5s. I like the modular concept that I can upgrade easily later. Now I am in the information collecting phase.
Click to expand...

This is a great Diagram, i wish i had this when i was putting my led's together!!!!
 
Awesome thread!

There's folks with the 75+ gallons asking if they needs 48 LEDs for keeping SPS.
Others asking if 12 LEDs is too much for 3 gallons for SPS...

So, for a Biocube 29 gallon that I remove all PC lighting and install everything in the hood (light fixture would be 2" above water line), would 24 LEDs be about right without optic lenses? Softies on the bottom and SPS from midway to top of tank? Go with 16 RB LEDs and 8 CW LEDs? I'd really like to keep the original hood on AND achieve good SPS growth up top and allow zoas to thrive on bottom of tank too. Tank is about 20" x 20" x 20". Looking to do it right the first time :)

Thanks! :thumbsup:
 
Matt888, I believe your numbers are about right. 2 drivers, so you can control dusk dawn effect. 12 on each driver. its ok to put 8 CWs with 4 RBs. Whats important is that you have all RBs in one driver, to make the effect.
 
It sounds a little much to me, but I am not very good with gallons. What is the surface area? The 4 LEDs would be about the same output as a 250 watt MH which seems a lot for a 29 gallons.
 
rguyler said:
Quick question for those who know:

Would a 1w or even a .5w resistor be enough power capacity for the dimming circuit? What about the pot? Most of the linear taper pots I find in the $2.00 range are .5w (when they give a power rating).
Click to expand...

The resistor you see in the diagram is not for dimming. Its just there so that you can check anytime the amps you are drawing on that series. Very important when setting it up and adjusting the SVR2 (internal pot). But not needed when everything is done.

I kept mine in so that I can spot check my amps anytime I want.

Im not sure about the wattage of the pots (potentiometer). But what I know is that they only control a very small amount of signal to tell the driver what to do. Just a signal, its by no means gives any power to the driver. Just a signal means very very small power needed, thus sometimes negligible on the pot side. I believe whats important is the kohms value of the pot. im using 10k pots. Some people uses 5k pots.
 
Fishman,

Based on the 20x20 (what he said) surface area... which is 400.

400 / 15 (sps) = 26 something. So I believe 24 LEDs are good. IMO its a bit too much, but some people uses factor of 10. So its really by preference. 24 is a good start. Dimmable is even better.
 
katchupoy said:
Matt888, I believe your numbers are about right. 2 drivers, so you can control dusk dawn effect. 12 on each driver. its ok to put 8 CWs with 4 RBs. Whats important is that you have all RBs in one driver, to make the effect.
Click to expand...

So I could do a single driver with 8 CW's and 4 RB's to pop on before and after another driver with 12 RB's. This is what you're suggesting? The dimmable drivers would definitely be a must so I could slowly bring the PAR readings up and can always dial back the light easily if it's too much.
 
That is correct matt, except that you probably want the RB to come first then the mixed string. That is hat most people have done. I think the reasoning is that the red light does not penetrate at sun rise an set.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
That is correct matt, except that you probably want the RB to come first then the mixed string. That is hat most people have done. I think the reasoning is that the red light does not penetrate at sun rise an set.
Click to expand...

Copy. I had it backwards. I hope 8 CW's without optic lenses is about right for decent SPS growth! I will probably pull the trigger on this setup within the next few weeks! Thanks for the help all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Red tufty algae - Asparagopsis - any expert advice for removal?
Replies
14
Views
2K
rallibon
R
J Crew
New Reef Build - equipment list
Replies
10
Views
2K
griss
griss
M
ESP32 - AQma WiFi LED Control - 8 x LED Channels, 3 x SSR. FOR FREE!
Replies
2
Views
2K
danielch2008
D
K
Plan to build a shallow reef peninsula
Replies
16
Views
2K
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
jbfloor
F/S 155g DSA glass aquarium + stand
Replies
2
Views
1K
jbfloor
jbfloor
Back
Top