(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design
- Thread starter katchupoy
- Start date
TropTrea
New member
do any of the meanwells work with dimming just using the 10,000K pot? And if not what drivers do?
I know with a home built cureent regulator it could be done easily but I want to avoid getting a seperate power supply other than the power supplyy built right into the drivers themselves.
TheFishMan65
New member
HLG do with a 100k pot. The also support 0 (or maybe 1) -10 volts and PWM. I also think a combination of these may work.
katchupoy
New member
Wait... what?... did i miss something?
TheFishMan65
New member
Cool whites are a bluer white and NW whites are warmer (more red) and warm whites have even more red.
TropTrea
New member
Dependent upon what series of LED's your looking at there are numerious versions. From red to blue they basicly break down
Cool White (mid way between a 6,500K and 10,000K) blueish white
Day Light (6,500 K)
CRI-90 suposedly 90% prefect balance 10% blue hue
Nuetral White (5,000 K) The advertising standard for pure white.
CRI- 80 (4,300 K) 80 % pure white 20% slight yellow hue
Warm White (3,700 K) definatly redish hue
Most people use either Cool Whites or Neutral Whites. On a comparison if you have 3 cool wites your lighting will look the same as if you had 1 royal blue and 2 neutral whites.
So if you go with a 1 to ration using the cool whiotes it will lo0k like someone else dusing a 2 blue to 1 neutral white ration. I personaly like a 3 to 4 Blue to 1 Neutral white ration for mid day.
Thank you, Fishman65 and Dennis.
These are the LEDs am planning to order.
•36 Cool White Cree XP-G R5 LEDs
•36 Royal Blue Cree XP-E LEDs
Will this give me a 14k look ? I prefer whiter with a light bluer tint..
Thanks again and will wait you inputs before i order them.
Regards,
SWF
These are the LEDs am planning to order.
•36 Cool White Cree XP-G R5 LEDs
•36 Royal Blue Cree XP-E LEDs
Will this give me a 14k look ? I prefer whiter with a light bluer tint..
Thanks again and will wait you inputs before i order them.
Regards,
SWF
katchupoy
New member
SWF,
Just to confuse you more.
1) I still suggest for you to use WW or NW in addition to your CW. Why? the issues with LED is they have a very narrow spectral bandwidth. The idea is to give them more bandwidth specifically in these spectrum.
Another reference here.
and another.
And put more blues because 1:1 is still on the white/yellow side. Maybe 42 blues and 30 whites?
Just my two cents.
Just to confuse you more.
1) I still suggest for you to use WW or NW in addition to your CW. Why? the issues with LED is they have a very narrow spectral bandwidth. The idea is to give them more bandwidth specifically in these spectrum.
Another reference here.
and another.
And put more blues because 1:1 is still on the white/yellow side. Maybe 42 blues and 30 whites?
Just my two cents.
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TropTrea
New member
I'm going to say that the Warm White are not that important because corals come from various ocean depts and the deeper you go into the ocean the more longer wave lenght is filtered out. Some studies also showed that wavelenghts of 685 nm or longer are actualy detrimental to corals by causing bleach and promoting the photosynthesis that suport cyno-bacteria.
As I mentioned repeatedly I prefer more of a 1 to 3 or even higher ratio of neutral whites to blues and royal blues. if I were to use strictly cool whites than the ration would probably be closer to 1 white to 2 blues. However the color effect is more personal preference as long as the light required by the corals between 420 nm and 520 nm is suffecient.
Here is a comparison of Crees difference between their whites. Note the Neutral Whites give the most light in the 490 nm area which is also important.
As I mentioned repeatedly I prefer more of a 1 to 3 or even higher ratio of neutral whites to blues and royal blues. if I were to use strictly cool whites than the ration would probably be closer to 1 white to 2 blues. However the color effect is more personal preference as long as the light required by the corals between 420 nm and 520 nm is suffecient.
Here is a comparison of Crees difference between their whites. Note the Neutral Whites give the most light in the 490 nm area which is also important.
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Am really confused now....
I have decided on 72 LEDs... 36CW and 36RB .. will be more of white/yellow ?
If i have to go with 40 CW and 32 RB... how will I work out the the strings .
I was planning to have 12 Led's per string... 3 strings each of CW and RB.
Please advise .. i need to decide in a day or two.
I have decided on 72 LEDs... 36CW and 36RB .. will be more of white/yellow ?
If i have to go with 40 CW and 32 RB... how will I work out the the strings .
I was planning to have 12 Led's per string... 3 strings each of CW and RB.
Please advise .. i need to decide in a day or two.
katchupoy
New member
this is very tricky since you're definition of whitish blue is different than mine. I was about to suggest 1:2 but that might be too much. That's why I suggested 40 RBs and 32 whites. I just realized I was wrong with numbers on my previous post. Sorry about that.. Wait... I double checked and my numbers where right but you typed it th opposite. 1:1 is yellowish whitish and 2:1 is 10K to 14K. Still debatable what 10K and 14K looks like to others.
with regards to how are you going to do it since the driver by 12 leds. You can always do mix whites and blue in one driver. As long as... 1) the whites and blues are the in the same series... Ie. XP series. Special attention to max amps they can handle. 2) as long as you have 1 driver at least dedicated to RBs. This will make the dusk dawn effect.
hope this helps.
with regards to how are you going to do it since the driver by 12 leds. You can always do mix whites and blue in one driver. As long as... 1) the whites and blues are the in the same series... Ie. XP series. Special attention to max amps they can handle. 2) as long as you have 1 driver at least dedicated to RBs. This will make the dusk dawn effect.
hope this helps.
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Thank you, Cesar for helping..
I have never done any DIY with LED's before... mixing LED's would really be a challenge
for me... i was hoping to go the linear way with 12 LED's per channel.
I understand 1:1 would be yellowish white.. which is not what i want ...
and for a whitish blue 10k to 14k look .. i would have to go for 1CW:2RB and am not
able to figure out how to put them on each channels..
am kinda lost...
I have never done any DIY with LED's before... mixing LED's would really be a challenge
for me... i was hoping to go the linear way with 12 LED's per channel.
I understand 1:1 would be yellowish white.. which is not what i want ...
and for a whitish blue 10k to 14k look .. i would have to go for 1CW:2RB and am not
able to figure out how to put them on each channels..
am kinda lost...
katchupoy
New member
yes certainly. The dusk dawn effect actually falls on the solid blue channel. So tell me. What's the size of the tank?
So 72 LEDs means 6 x 12 linear strip?
So you will have 3 x 12 solid blue?
and you will have 2 x 12 solid white?
and 1 x 12 mixed white and blue.... Maybe 6 blue + 6 white?
will this work?
now on the channels..
You can have 2 channels...
1 for the blue.
And 1 for the white + mixed w+b.. Yes we will put the mix one together with the white channel.
So 72 LEDs means 6 x 12 linear strip?
So you will have 3 x 12 solid blue?
and you will have 2 x 12 solid white?
and 1 x 12 mixed white and blue.... Maybe 6 blue + 6 white?
will this work?
now on the channels..
You can have 2 channels...
1 for the blue.
And 1 for the white + mixed w+b.. Yes we will put the mix one together with the white channel.
