(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

[bamf25]

So you can use slightly fewer leds as well as the new ratio? Using the new ration and 72 leds that would mean 24 whites and 48 blues, with 6 of the driver units. But with the increased power you may be able to get away with 20 whites and 40 blues for 60 total leds and only 5 drivers? That could add up to a significant money savings on the front end as well as electric savings long term.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

So you can use slightly fewer leds as well as the new ratio? Using the new ration and 72 leds that would mean 24 whites and 48 blues, with 6 of the driver units. But with the increased power you may be able to get away with 20 whites and 40 blues for 60 total leds and only 5 drivers? That could add up to a significant money savings on the front end as well as electric savings long term.

i would say it really depends on what you want to keep and where you want to keep it...remember you dont have to light the entire tank evenly if you dont want too...if you plan on islands of rock you may only have to light the islands..

evenly lit tank you would be looking at 72 LED's / 4 strings = 18 LEDs per string
60" - 8" (4" per side of tank you dont need to light) = 52"/18 LED's = 2.8" spacing O.C. for the stars...

18" depth of tank - 6" ( again 3" front and back as there is no sense lighting the glass) = 12" / 4 strings = 3" centre to centre of each string...

you might be able to knock a couple LEDs off here and there and increase the spacing to reduce down to 60 LED's...or you could start off assuming you will need 72 LEDs, but only build three strings less 6 LEDs and use four drivers; and later if you think you need more you could build the final string and add the other 6 LEDs and two drivers.

 

[katchupoy]

Do the newer 3w Cree the xp-e make a big difference, or has it not been tested. I think I saw the royal blue is now also availible in the newer model.

I believe XP-E has been around and not new. Its just that its not available thru common reef outlets. Like Nano said, I believe that the XP-G is the newer. If you are going to do XP-G for the whites then I really suggest to do 2:1. 2 blues per 1 white XP-G. Unless you really want the 6.5k metal halide look with tint of blue.

I see also that you used rapidled for your stuff. I know they have the 24 as well as the 36 kits, but those come with the constant output converters. Did you have them swap in the dimmables, or did you put together your own kit?

Yes, I ordered the 24 Ultra Dimmable(free shipping). And yes they also have 36 Ultra kits Dimmable. http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-58/36-Ultra-Premium-LED/Detail
When you order, there is this box where you say what you want or if you want something change like the ratio of Blue and White. Note: That you need to order the optics for the XP-G seperate or as addition.

But with the increased power you may be able to get away with 20 whites and 40 blues for 60 total leds and only 5 drivers?

Definitely. If you order 60, your factor will be "18", which I believe still very good. You still havent told me what kind of corals you are keeping. Or is this going to a new tank?

60 LEDs means 5 strips of 12 LEDs (maximum per driver). Is your tank acrylic? or glass? 100 gallons right? If you have a single glass support on the middle of your tank then 6 LEDs on each side. 5 strips also means, 3 strips of blue and 2 strips of white. All Blue, All white, All Blue, All White, All Blue.

Go and buy 12 or 24 LED kits for now, and work on it. If you like what you see, then add the remaining 36 LEDs.

I highly recommend that you do 12 per strip (max per driver). this way, it will be highly modular, like replacing fluorescent bulbs for service in the future. you can easily disconnect one without affecting the others. Thats if you are doing "strips" and not heatsink blocks.

 

[katchupoy]

remember you dont have to light the entire tank evenly if you dont want too...if you plan on islands of rock you may only have to light the islands..

Bamf25, I agree with Nano here.

 

[daveonbass]

I have been reviewing some of this info...and I'm thinking of going with the 36 LED kit. The reason why is because I do not want to have to suppliment the LEDs with T5 bulbs anymore...mainly because I have a ATI PM and can not just replace the bulbs with LEDs simply. And since I keep SPS, I would need a "15" per the guidelines, but this will give me an "18" which I think will still be good for me.

My tank is 36x18. and with three sets of lights:

front
Blue
White
Blue

...I can have a rating of 18 and still be close to the SPS mark...and still keep some LPS at the bottom. plus it gives me a little extra blue in the back so that I don't have too much white in one spot.

My problem is that I dont know how to space them out. At 36" long...I could do 36" strips and have them spaced out evenly every 3". BUT that's silly since the end LEDs would be wasteing their light on the floor. But at a 2" spacing I'm afraid I would have heat issues with the leds. Any idea on what I can do?...I don't have a cool program, or a computer at home that I can draw up how the spread will look on the tank. (60degree optics for the blues, and 40 for the white)

Just wonder what the rest of you think. I would do this to avoid buying two AI modules for this tank...and then would ditch the ATI PM (save it) till I knw for sure I can sell it cause the LEDs are a success.

(sorry that was long winded)

 

[bamf25]

I am a total noob, and this will actually be my first tank. I just like the look and idea of the leds when I have seen them pictured. I think doing 60 may be the ideal solution. With the typical island at each end type aquascaping, could use a little less lighting in the center and basically do this (now for a down and dirty lighting grid).


XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
---XXXXXX---------XXXXXX---
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

 

[katchupoy]

My tank is 36x18. and with three sets of lights:

front
Blue
White
Blue

...I can have a rating of 18 and still be close to the SPS mark...and still keep some LPS at the bottom. plus it gives me a little extra blue in the back so that I don't have too much white in one spot.

My problem is that I dont know how to space them out. At 36" long...I could do 36" strips and have them spaced out evenly every 3". BUT that's silly since the end LEDs would be wasteing their light on the floor. But at a 2" spacing I'm afraid I would have heat issues with the leds. Any idea on what I can do?...I don't have a cool program, or a computer at home that I can draw up how the spread will look on the tank. (60degree optics for the blues, and 40 for the white)

I believe 36 is a good start. And IMO is too much for a 36 inch tank. Believe me, its like putting 2x250 watt ushios on a 36 inch tank, specially on XP-G whites.

So here is a down and dirty diagram I made one for you and some dimensions.

The spacing between LEDs are around 2 7/16" or 2.5". You worried about heat? I suggest to go find a bigger aluminum bar. Channel is the best, but i cant find one locally so i ended up with square. Mine is 1" square, if you can find bigger like 1.5" or even 2" so much the better. Because your LEDs will be a lot closer than my spacings.

Note, the blues are using 60 optics here and the whites are using 45 degree... and for some reason, the XP-G 45's are wider than the 60's. Dont ask me why. Lol.

Hope this helps.

 

[SimonSKL]

Katchupoy, great thread and very clear and easy to follow write-up!

I would like to share a recent DIY built strip using a dual aluminum sliding door track as heatsink for 24x3W LEDs, 12 on each strip. The first LED is about 1" from the end and then the LEDs are spaced at 3" interval. The aluminum sliding door track comes in 72" length that you can buy from a local home center and you can cut them into two 36" strips for a total of 48 LEDs. The surface area on the sliding track is more than the U channel or may be even the 1" square tube.

Since my LED is inside a canopy, I made an acrylic splash guard to protect the LEDs

 

[katchupoy]

I really like what you did, very clean... question? how much for that channel... I will try to source one out here... where do you find it? what section of the hardware store? and what do you call or brand?

 

[SimonSKL]

I really like what you did, very clean... question? how much for that channel... I will try to source one out here... where do you find it? what section of the hardware store? and what do you call or brand?

I found the door track in the pocket door hardware section of a local home improvement center. I believe you can find that in Lowes or Home Depot too. Make sure it is aluminum. Many of those door tracks are galvanized metal. The 72" length costs about $30. The bad part is I ended up with a lot of hardware that I won't use (e.g rollers, bolts, nuts):beer:

 

[katchupoy]

so its a kit or something, and you cannot just buy the track.... ill check ours here soon. thanks for a great idea.

 

[SimonSKL]

Yes, it is a kit complete with other hardware to hang sliding doors. I couldn't find just the track. I threw away the label and forgot what brand it was.

 

[bamf25]

I made an offer on a used 125g today, and my dimensions were slightly off. The tank is 72 x 18 x 22. So lower than I though which helps with lighting. If i did 72 leds that would 3 tracks of 24 with 3 inch spacing. I still think with 60 I would be OK. Maybe 3 tracks of 20 spread over 68 inches would give 3 1/2 inch spacing. Would that be enough light on a 72 inch tank? At 60 the number would be 21.6. At 72 that would give me 18. If I go to 84 that is 15.5. Now my head is starting to hurt.

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

I made an offer on a used 125g today, and my dimensions were slightly off. The tank is 72 x 18 x 22. So lower than I though which helps with lighting. If i did 72 leds that would 3 tracks of 24 with 3 inch spacing. I still think with 60 I would be OK. Maybe 3 tracks of 20 spread over 68 inches would give 3 1/2 inch spacing. Would that be enough light on a 72 inch tank? At 60 the number would be 21.6. At 72 that would give me 18. If I go to 84 that is 15.5. Now my head is starting to hurt.

you can always add more later...

 

[boz151]

Hi - Great build thread. Really clear and concise! I'm an LED novice, but the thread has inspired me. That and the inability to get IC 660 ballast for my VHO setup anymore...

I have a 180 (72x24x24), mainly LPS dominated tank, but I'd probably want the ability to throw in a few SPS and Clams here and there. Do you think I would need 4 or 5 strips with 24 LED's each?

 

[bamf25]

I have never wired stuff like this before. Do you have an explaination or diagram on how you wired your dimmers, to your drivers, to your power supply in the box?

 

[daveonbass]

dumb question here....

Can you paint a heat sink and still have it work properly? I actually LIKE the look of the concept drawings you did with the blue and white bars. (thanks BTW that was awefully nice of you) I know it was just for visual reference but it's kind of cool looking and I like how it would look when the lights are off.

So I was just wondering...

 

[katchupoy]

Dave, I really dont know if it will work. I guess it might impede the heat dissipation? not an expert on that side. I guess it will work.

 

[katchupoy]

I have never wired stuff like this before. Do you have an explaination or diagram on how you wired your dimmers, to your drivers, to your power supply in the box?

Here is a basic wiring diagram... Im sorry i dont have any.

 

[daveonbass]

yeah that might just be a pipe dream... :/