TheFishMan65
New member
Found in another thread
(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design
- Thread starter katchupoy
- Start date
I dont think I want to go with all neutrals, because im worried it will look too yellow. I want a more blue color, and I couldnt figure out how to add more blues and still have white/blue on seperate dimmers. Also, for some reason I had it set in my mind that because of the mix of RB and NW on the middle row that I couldnt dim it, but now I'm realizing it is just that I cant go over 1A because the blues are limiting. :lolspin:
The problem with this (besides the point that you made) is that a couple LED's wont really give you a feeling for your OVERALL color with your full array.
gilles0181
New member
Yeah i'd found that quote to, its from the JP's DIY LED Fixture thread right?
The reason i am mixing the cool whites is because i've read on reefledlights.com the following;
So that, combined with the fact that i am not sure which CREE 3w CW gives the 'best' result i decided to mix them, but giving preference to the XP-E since they suggested it. They also sell 2 versions, the 'normal' and 'premium' versions. On the other hand, the Radion uses XP-G Cool White running at 5w (and include red). I am assuming that they did their homework and choose for the XP-Gs for a reason. So maybe i go for the XP-Gs as CW source, what do you think?
About the blues.. Actually i am used to about 5000-6500K on my freshwater tank, so it will be blue no matter how much CWs or even WWs i add. I do like the UV-ish look that the blues generate however it must be pleasant and 'life-like' to watch at thesame time.
Therefore i am seriously thinking about a setup where i could put 12 leds (in parralel) on one driver. As always, open for any suggestions and/or experience!
The reason i am mixing the cool whites is because i've read on reefledlights.com the following;
.
So that, combined with the fact that i am not sure which CREE 3w CW gives the 'best' result i decided to mix them, but giving preference to the XP-E since they suggested it. They also sell 2 versions, the 'normal' and 'premium' versions. On the other hand, the Radion uses XP-G Cool White running at 5w (and include red). I am assuming that they did their homework and choose for the XP-Gs for a reason. So maybe i go for the XP-Gs as CW source, what do you think?
About the blues.. Actually i am used to about 5000-6500K on my freshwater tank, so it will be blue no matter how much CWs or even WWs i add. I do like the UV-ish look that the blues generate however it must be pleasant and 'life-like' to watch at thesame time.
Therefore i am seriously thinking about a setup where i could put 12 leds (in parralel) on one driver. As always, open for any suggestions and/or experience!
gilles0181
New member
Yeah i'd found that quote to, its from the JP's DIY LED Fixture thread right?
The reason i am mixing the cool whites is because i've read on reefledlights.com the following;
So that, combined with the fact that i am not sure which CREE 3w CW gives the 'best' result i decided to mix them, but giving preference to the XP-E since they suggested it. They also sell 2 versions, the 'normal' and 'premium' versions. On the other hand, the Radion uses XP-G Cool White running at 5w (and include red). I am assuming that they did their homework and choose for the XP-Gs for a reason. So maybe i go for the XP-Gs as CW source, what do you think?
About the blues.. Actually i am used to about 5000-6500K on my freshwater tank, so it will be blue no matter how much CWs or even WWs i add. I do like the UV-ish look that the blues generate however it must be pleasant and 'life-like' to watch at thesame time.
Therefore i am seriously thinking about a setup where i could put 12 leds (in parralel) on one driver. As always, open for any suggestions and/or experience!
The reason i am mixing the cool whites is because i've read on reefledlights.com the following;
So that, combined with the fact that i am not sure which CREE 3w CW gives the 'best' result i decided to mix them, but giving preference to the XP-E since they suggested it. They also sell 2 versions, the 'normal' and 'premium' versions. On the other hand, the Radion uses XP-G Cool White running at 5w (and include red). I am assuming that they did their homework and choose for the XP-Gs for a reason. So maybe i go for the XP-Gs as CW source, what do you think?
About the blues.. Actually i am used to about 5000-6500K on my freshwater tank, so it will be blue no matter how much CWs or even WWs i add. I do like the UV-ish look that the blues generate however it must be pleasant and 'life-like' to watch at thesame time.
Therefore i am seriously thinking about a setup where i could put 12 leds (in parralel) on one driver. As always, open for any suggestions and/or experience!
TheFishMan65
New member
Sorry I don't have all the answer, but I am at least trying to make sure you have considered every thing (but I bet I miss something).
Meshmez,
Wath about 24 royal blue and 12 of what ever white you decide? That seems to be the proper ratio. You can turn the whites down to get a bluer look. Maybe half as neutrals to get some red. I know I push the neutrals, but the XR-E CW don't have enough IMHO.
Meshmez,
Wath about 24 royal blue and 12 of what ever white you decide? That seems to be the proper ratio. You can turn the whites down to get a bluer look. Maybe half as neutrals to get some red. I know I push the neutrals, but the XR-E CW don't have enough IMHO.
TheFishMan65
New member
Gilles, maybe you will get better color (personal preference) and happier coral (does anyone really know the right spectrums) mixing the XP-E and XP-G, but double check the data sheet I didn't think XP-E went to 1.2 amps.
I recommend the XP-G, because they are more efficient. Sounds like you have done your research. But if XP-E are so good why isn't everyone else using them. I am not familiar with reefledlight, but it just doesn't sound right to me.
I recommend the XP-G, because they are more efficient. Sounds like you have done your research. But if XP-E are so good why isn't everyone else using them. I am not familiar with reefledlight, but it just doesn't sound right to me.
gilles0181
New member
I understand and i fully appreciate any feedback you can give me. I was about to PM kcress but i can't since i don't have 10 posts yet.
TheFishMan65
New member
Just for referecne der_wille_zur_macht choose to go with warm (not neutral), and there is a large thread over on nanotuners about color. I think alot of folks are switching some CW out. Maybe we should start a survey.
I THINK the reason they say that is because their kits are all XP-E LED's and they sell their "high noon" kit seperate. Not that they are LYING per se... but you are giving the corals more PAR with the XP-G's simply because they are putting out more light
As far as i know the XP-G can run at a higher current and put out more light than the XP-E can. the "color temp" should be about the same (assuming you get both in CW). The XP-E's are a little cheaper though, so you do save a couple bucks per LED with the XP-E over the XP-G.
Well problem number 1 is I actually already ordered LED's
but if I need to switch a couple out its ok.Im using XP-G CW's not XR-E ill probably go ahead with the build as is and then swap out a couple if need be. I wanted to get feedback primairily on spacing, but ideas on colors is always welcome, so thank you!
TheFishMan65
New member
You save a few buck per LED ordering XP-E over XP-G, but you pay for it every day with electricity. Every time I run number it seems worth it to pay for the better LEDs.
katchupoy
New member
If SPS is your goal, then you need to reconsider the amount of LEDs you need for your tank. You can start with 24 then go up from that starting point. Factor of 15 maybe?
What if you do... 24x24 = 576/15 = 38.4... then round off to 36 so it is by 12 LEDs per driver. This is also perfect for a 6x6 LED layout configuration.
See my answer above.
Addition, I would swap cool whites to warm whites. Cool white has too much blue and not much red. Warm whites, has reds that are I think is important to have a complete spectrum. Hope this works.
katchupoy
New member
In addition to what Fishman is/are suggesting about the white selections, let me add my own experience.
I had this setup since late December of 2010. And the only issues I have with these lights are they are too much for my softies and LPS.
Setup.
75 gallon tank, 36 LEDs setup 1:2 white:blue configuration.
Problems.
1) too much light, bleaching of corals even if its running 50-75% intensity.
2) my RBTAs are loosing their reds and becoming pinkish.
Solution.
1) remove all optics for the white. Keep all optics for the blues to avoid light spread outside of tank.
2) I have several whites that went out so this is my change to buy some reds (experiment) and some warm whites. But decided to use warm whites for now. So i have 6 cool and 6 warm whites.
Observation 1
After two weeks of using warm whites. Im happy to say that all 12 RBTAs are responding beautifully. And after removing the optics, they are not hiding anymore on the rocks... full bloom and reaching out.
This was installed 2 months ago. And up to now, everything is fine. Why not neutral? well I believe (just me) neutral still have a lot of blue to is and not much red (warmer color) If im going to do it again... I will do 1:3... all warm white and royal blues... That will definitely kill the yellow look.
Besides, this yellow look only happens 2 hours a day during the noon cycle (arduino controller). So by the time i get home, white is already at 20% and going down.
Of course these observations are purely anecdotal and no scientific basis. Just purely observation on my part.
Hope this helps.
I had this setup since late December of 2010. And the only issues I have with these lights are they are too much for my softies and LPS.
Setup.
75 gallon tank, 36 LEDs setup 1:2 white:blue configuration.
Problems.
1) too much light, bleaching of corals even if its running 50-75% intensity.
2) my RBTAs are loosing their reds and becoming pinkish.
Solution.
1) remove all optics for the white. Keep all optics for the blues to avoid light spread outside of tank.
2) I have several whites that went out so this is my change to buy some reds (experiment) and some warm whites. But decided to use warm whites for now. So i have 6 cool and 6 warm whites.
Observation 1
After two weeks of using warm whites. Im happy to say that all 12 RBTAs are responding beautifully. And after removing the optics, they are not hiding anymore on the rocks... full bloom and reaching out.
This was installed 2 months ago. And up to now, everything is fine. Why not neutral? well I believe (just me) neutral still have a lot of blue to is and not much red (warmer color) If im going to do it again... I will do 1:3... all warm white and royal blues... That will definitely kill the yellow look.
Besides, this yellow look only happens 2 hours a day during the noon cycle (arduino controller). So by the time i get home, white is already at 20% and going down.
Of course these observations are purely anecdotal and no scientific basis. Just purely observation on my part.
Hope this helps.
Snootch
New member
My LED fixture is almost complete and I'm a trying to decide on LEDs and optics.
This is my planed setup:
I should have made it a little wider but I can't change it at this point.
Light fixture will be 6" above water above a 26" x 24" x 20" high tank.
12 x 2 RB XP-Es on a ELN-60-48D, 12 NW on a ELN-60-48D and 12 CW on ELN-60-48D controlled by Neptune Apex.
Does this LED placement look OK and should I go with 80 deg. optics or go without any optics?
KC
This is my planed setup:
I should have made it a little wider but I can't change it at this point.
Light fixture will be 6" above water above a 26" x 24" x 20" high tank.
12 x 2 RB XP-Es on a ELN-60-48D, 12 NW on a ELN-60-48D and 12 CW on ELN-60-48D controlled by Neptune Apex.
Does this LED placement look OK and should I go with 80 deg. optics or go without any optics?
KC
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HOLY COW! 48 HP LED's in 2 square feet seems like a lot....
gilles0181
New member
Here are my LED layouts for a 24" x 24" tank.
Setup 1 (6*7 layout; 42 LEDS; UV/XP-E/XP-G):
No Blues, UV and no warm whites.
- 6x TUV_420 = UV licht op 420nm
- 20x XPE_RYB = Royal Blue
- 12x XPE_WIT = CREE XP-E Cool White 3W LED On Star
- 4x XPG_WIT = CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED On Star
Setup 2 (7*7 layout; 48 LEDs; XP-E/XP-G):
Based on Reefledlights.com combi; using the 'older' XP-E
- 18x CREE XP-E Royal Blue
- 6x CREE XP-E Blue
- 8x CREE XP-G R5 Cool White
- 6x CREE XP-G Neutral White R3
- 10x CREE XP-G Warm White
Setup 3 (Spaced layout; 52 LEDs; XP-E/XM-L):
Using XP-E for blues, but XM-L for the whites (more lumen/watt).
XML-Ls will be placed with 14 on 1 driver.
- 18x CREE XP-E Royal Blue @ ~750mA
- 6x CREE XP-E Blue @ ~750mA
- 6x CREE XM-L Cool White T6 - 5000K-8300K @ ~1000mA
- 6x CREE XM-L Neutral White T5 - 5000K @ ~1000mA
- 16x CREE XM-L Warm White T3 - 3200K @ ~1000mA
Setup 4 (6*6 layout; 36 LEDs; XP-E/XM-L):
Using XP-E for blues, but XM-L for the whites (more lumen/watt)
- 16x CREE XP-E Royal Blue @ ~750mA
- 8x CREE XP-E Blue @ ~750mA
- 8x CREE XM-L Neutral White T5 - 5000K @ ~1000mA
- 4x CREE XM-L Warm White T3 - 3200K @ ~1000mA
Setup 1 (6*7 layout; 42 LEDS; UV/XP-E/XP-G):
No Blues, UV and no warm whites.
- 6x TUV_420 = UV licht op 420nm
- 20x XPE_RYB = Royal Blue
- 12x XPE_WIT = CREE XP-E Cool White 3W LED On Star
- 4x XPG_WIT = CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED On Star
Code:
XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPE_WIT XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPE_WIT
XPE_RYB TUV_420 XPE_RYB XPE_RYB TUV_420 XPE_RYB
XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPG_WIT XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPG_WIT
XPE_RYB TUV_420 XPE_RYB XPE_RYB TUV_420 XPE_RYB
XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPG_WIT XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPG_WIT
XPE_RYB TUV_420 XPE_RYB XPE_RYB TUV_420 XPE_RYB
XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPE_WIT XPE_WIT XPE_RYB XPE_WITSetup 2 (7*7 layout; 48 LEDs; XP-E/XP-G):
Based on Reefledlights.com combi; using the 'older' XP-E
- 18x CREE XP-E Royal Blue
- 6x CREE XP-E Blue
- 8x CREE XP-G R5 Cool White
- 6x CREE XP-G Neutral White R3
- 10x CREE XP-G Warm White
Code:
RB WW RB NW RB WW RB
WW BL CW RB CW BL WW
RB NW RB CW RB NW RB
CW BL WW WW BL CW
RB NW RB CW RB NW RB
WW BL CW RB CW BL WW
RB WW RB NW RB WW RBSetup 3 (Spaced layout; 52 LEDs; XP-E/XM-L):
Using XP-E for blues, but XM-L for the whites (more lumen/watt).
XML-Ls will be placed with 14 on 1 driver.
- 18x CREE XP-E Royal Blue @ ~750mA
- 6x CREE XP-E Blue @ ~750mA
- 6x CREE XM-L Cool White T6 - 5000K-8300K @ ~1000mA
- 6x CREE XM-L Neutral White T5 - 5000K @ ~1000mA
- 16x CREE XM-L Warm White T3 - 3200K @ ~1000mA
Code:
WW CW WW NW WW CW WW
RB RB BL RB RB BL RB RB
WW NW WW CW WW NW WW
RB RB BL RB RB BL RB RB
WW NW WW CW WW NW WW
RB RB BL RB RB BL RB RB
WW CW WW NW WW CW WWSetup 4 (6*6 layout; 36 LEDs; XP-E/XM-L):
Using XP-E for blues, but XM-L for the whites (more lumen/watt)
- 16x CREE XP-E Royal Blue @ ~750mA
- 8x CREE XP-E Blue @ ~750mA
- 8x CREE XM-L Neutral White T5 - 5000K @ ~1000mA
- 4x CREE XM-L Warm White T3 - 3200K @ ~1000mA
Code:
RB BL RB RB BL RB
NW WW NW NW WW NW
RB BL RB RB BL RB
RB BL RB RB BL RB
NW WW NW NW WW NW
RB BL RB RB BL RB
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TheFishMan65
New member
Well looking at the charts in the datasheet the warm are much more into the red area so perhaps what you are suggesting might be better. I need to try my neutrals and then I guess order some warms. Sigh - will it ever be right?
TheFishMan65
New member
snootch, at 6 inches probably no optics.
