(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

gille,

I don't really see a reason to go XM-L unless you plan to drive them hard. Which if you did in the last 2 cases would results in an awful white tank.

If you are asking which is better, sorry I can't help. To many colors I haven't tried, but IMHO either should work in your tank.
 
Super happy with new LED setup on my 125 gallon

Super happy with new LED setup on my 125 gallon

Installed:

4 meanwells 35-700 driver running 14 RB's = 56

2 meanwells 60-1050 running drivers 12 CW's= 24

Totaling 80 LEDs for about 240 watts

Running Blues 12 hours and whites 7 hours... well see how that works

All have 80 degree optics on now at about 6 inches off the water.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9QXfazCyDQc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QXfazCyDQc

Thanks for all the great info here
 

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The advantage is that they throw out twice as much lumen as the XP-Gs @ 700mA (but costing 1.5 times)..

So right now i am pondering about buying leds for setup 3 (since i live in the Netherlands), but going at first for actually building setup 4.
I can always up my leds to go for setup 3. (Shipping costs me 50$ regardless, better pay that only once)

Or, go for setup 2 with the XP-Gs...
 
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Yes, but do you need twice the light.

You will save money in electricity if you run them at the level (lumen output) you expected to turn the XP-Gs since they will run more efficiently. But if you buy half as many XM-Ls and run them at twice the current you don't come out much ahead. I ran the efficiency in lumens per watt for an XP-G at 350 ma and an XM-L at 700. They were about the same. When I did it XM-Ls where more than twice the XP-Gs so you did not come out ahead. RapidLED still has XM-Ls about twice XP-G, but it depends on bins.
 
But... but... based on thesame amount of leds (36) the XM-Ls will produce brighter light (at least that is what i read based on this quote);
That means if you have a 48V driver running at 1000mA you can only put 12 XR-E CW or 14 XP-G CW or 16 XM-L CW. That means for the same cost of powering 12 XR-E CW which give you 2824.8 lumen you could be powering 16 XM-L CW which would give you 6208 lumens.

Maybe i am missing something due to my lack of experience in LEDs, if so, please enlighten me with a bit more background info, since i am Dutch and English is not my native language :)
 
Biggar, can you post a video of your LED setup over your tank?
I'm curious if you can see the light cones with 80 degree optics.

K.C
 
That statement is true. XM-Ls (if the number are correct) will produce a little more than twice as much light as the XR-E for the same power. Wish they had the number for an XP-G. They also added lots of XM-Ls. But lets try this. 12 XR-E and you want to use half as many XM-Ls. 6 XM-Ls at 1 amp produce 6208 * 6 / 16 = 2328 lumens. So we need to increase the current some to get to 2824. This lessen the efficiency in lumens/watt and at some point might be less efficient than XR-Es. Is that any clearer?

If you keep the number of LEDs the same you use less power and pay for the LEDs.
If you decrease the number of LEDs you increase current and maybe pass the efficiency point of where your older LEDs were operating.
 
XP-G for white usually
XP-E for colors

It get's kind of confusing. Another way to look at it is more/better LEDs use less power for the same lumen output (generally). 1000 XR-E would be cheaper to run then 10 XM-Ls, but is it worth the cost difference and wiring hassle? But then 10 XM-Ls beat the socks off of 10 XR-E for the same lumen output. This might be worth (probably) the cost difference. But 10 XP-G versus 5 XM-Ls gets real tricky. Same efficiency, so it all depends on price.
 
Snooth , I will take a video and post, might take a couple days.

I thinking about the stronger leds out now. If stronger= less lights = more spotlighting. may just need to be ran with no optics
 
Snooth , I will take a video and post, might take a couple days.

I thinking about the stronger leds out now. If stronger= less lights = more spotlighting. may just need to be ran with no optics
 
Just got done reading thru this thread! Got one questions:

How many LEDS would be needed for a 120g tank, 48" long 19"deep and 32" tall?? I am running a 4 x 96 compact florescens now in a 72" fixture. Need to make sure I can grow at the bottom of the tank amenones and maybe corals down the road.

Thanks... great info in this thread!!
 
72 inch fluorescent on a 4 foot tank?

That is an awfully deep tank. Probably 48-80 LED will be what you need. Maybe a few more never done a tank that deep. I would mount them high with tight optics to get the light to the bottom of the tank.
 
Would someone care to comment on my plan?
My tank is 24L x 12W x 14D, and I plan to keep the fixture 6" to 8" above the tank. My goal is not to have my fixture limit me, as in i would love to keep SPS. I planed to use 14 RB and 7 NW, but after reading this maybe CW. I will be driving these with 2 Inventronics 40 w dimmable drivers. Please see my layout.

6125070692_b9f3fed6ec.jpg


Questions:
1) should I go with cool white?
2) is my driver selection good. The MW are not recommended for less than 8 XPI
3) Is my layout of LEDs good?
4) Optics?
5) is a heating overkill? Or would a c channel suffice

Thanks in advance
 
Would someone care to comment on my plan?
My tank is 24L x 12W x 14D, and I plan to keep the fixture 6" to 8" above the tank. My goal is not to have my fixture limit me, as in i would love to keep SPS. I planed to use 14 RB and 7 NW, but after reading this maybe CW. I will be driving these with 2 Inventronics 40 w dimmable drivers. Please see my layout.

6125070692_b9f3fed6ec.jpg


Questions:
1) should I go with cool white?
2) is my driver selection good. The MW are not recommended for less than 8 XP
3) Is my layout of LEDs good?
4) Optics?
5) is a heatsink overkill? Or would a c channel suffice

Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
Would someone care to comment on my plan?
My tank is 24L x 12W x 14D, and I plan to keep the fixture 6" to 8" above the tank. My goal is not to have my fixture limit me, as in i would love to keep SPS. I planed to use 14 RB and 7 NW, but after reading this maybe CW. I will be driving these with 2 Inventronics 40 w dimmable drivers. Please see my layout.

6125070692_b9f3fed6ec.jpg


Questions:
1) should I go with cool white?
2) is my driver selection good. The MW are not recommended for less than 8 XP
3) Is my layout of LEDs good?
4) Optics?
5) is a heatsink overkill? Or would a c channel suffice

Thanks in advance

1. Cool whites are fine.
2. not sure on the drivers your talking about
3. layout looks fine
4. if fixture is only going to be 6-8" above tank I would go with like 80 degree optics
5. Heatsink would work but you can always sandwich some c-channel alloy together.

I just did a small 24 LED fixture 12"X8" and I used c-channel. Here are a few pictures of my DIY LED fixture
CIMG0373.jpg

20111024_175650.jpg

20111025_144847.jpg

20111101_161924.jpg

20111101_192245.jpg

20111101_163110.jpg

B.jpg
 
1. Cool whites are fine.
2. not sure on the drivers your talking about
3. layout looks fine
4. if fixture is only going to be 6-8" above tank I would go with like 80 degree optics
5. Heatsink would work but you can always sandwich some c-channel alloy together.

I just did a small 24 LED fixture 12"X8" and I used c-channel. Here are a few pictures of my DIY LED fixture
CIMG0373.jpg

20111024_175650.jpg

20111025_144847.jpg

20111101_161924.jpg

20111101_192245.jpg

20111101_163110.jpg

B.jpg

May I ask, do you like your 50/50 blue/white mix? Also, where did you happen to find your c-channel. I am debating maybe raising my fixture higher, with 60 degree optics, to give more working room.
 
NW probably also work or maybe 50/50. Since color choice is personal it is hard to give the one answer for everyone (or is that impossible). I think CW and RB need a little more red, but you might not. Either order a few and try it or go 50/50 would be my advice.
 
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