(Another) DIY LED Controller - Simple Arduino Style

Molehs said:
But really isn't that just aesthetics? You could just use the bread board to wire it up rather than mounted as a shield, no?

But regardless keep us informed as to what you pick, I might get it as well.
Click to expand...


Yes this is very true, If you can find a small package breadboard... thats perfect... the only issue I have, not using the breadboard, is it wont fit on my project box... thats it.... like i said before, it will work... You can always rearrange things inside with breadboard. This is very good....
 
TheReefNinja said:
Im not sure but this guy

http://reefprojects.com/wiki/Build-phases#Playing_with_the_Arduino_and_various_parts

is using it with a lot more than this. I am thinking about going with the mega but only if it allows me to do more stuff

EDIT: Ok it looks like the mega doesn't fit the shields of the other one. so I will be snagging a different kit.... I really liked that big screen lots of info on there lol also in these kits how do we wire the switches any clue?
Click to expand...


Thats the good thing with Arduino, you can do a lot, now, or later, or in the future...

But right now, we are taking it slowly... for people like me.... its overwhelming... so im just sharing RAMP-UP and DOWN for now... but will do all of it later....

it does not matter if the shield does not fit.. If you are going to put it on top of each other then yes, it wont fit.... But right now, this project does not do that... it will remote so that we can mount this outside the case??? or flushed to the case??? or something .... so the Arduino will be inside then the screen will be mounted else where.... thats why we have those jumpers....
 
No worries. Your answer is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Cesar.

Honestly (as a newb, heh) I think that getting the first thing or 2 to work is the real hurdle, after that I'm assuming it's just fiddling with things to make it work the way "I" want it.
 
Here is what I have right now.....

LED controller - Ramp Up and Down.
Wavemaker - On and Off for power heads...

building...

Alk and Calk Doser - JerryRig Style...

Let me finish the RAMP UP and DOWN first... then we will go to another and another and another until we have a full blown reef controller.

Remember, Im no expert... Im just 2 pages ahead of you, so were actually learning as we go along right now...

Bare with me.... Im finishing the write up on the wiring on how we connect these things....
 
Good stuff. I am ordering today, crappy thing is its gonna take 2+ weeks to get here.... Good thing is that I have been dealing with html/php/java and now I write android apps so maybe I can get a handle on this and help out.
 
I havent gone with anything yet I am still trying to figure out this meanwell 48d issue I dont want to over time kill my driver if the pwd hurts it but I might be ordering 2 of these tonight if I can figure out how to get the buttons or ir remote working with this project... that would be sweet

Also how hard would it be after the ramp up and ramp down is done to test out lightning?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Arduino-DIY-Sta...215?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f056762bf
 
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TheReefNinja said:
Good stuff. I am ordering today, crappy thing is its gonna take 2+ weeks to get here.... Good thing is that I have been dealing with html/php/java and now I write android apps so maybe I can get a handle on this and help out.
Click to expand...

2 weeks is too much to bare... lol...

My Arduino and LCD came from the same seller in China... 3 days delivery is $14.00

You can also try this seller from San Diego.
 
As long as I'm not buying the 'wrong' thing then 2 weeks is fine by me, plus that 2 weeks of education before I mess with my own works for me as well.
 
Woa just read this any thing better I can buy?

The DS1307 is simple and inexpensive but not a high precision device. It may lose or gain up to 2 seconds a day. For a high-precision, temperature compensated alternative, please check out the ChronoDot.
 
TheReefNinja said:
I havent gone with anything yet I am still trying to figure out this meanwell 48d issue I dont want to over time kill my driver if the pwd hurts it but I might be ordering 2 of these tonight if I can figure out how to get the buttons or ir remote working with this project... that would be sweet

Also how hard would it be after the ramp up and ramp down is done to test out lightning?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Arduino-DIY-Sta...215?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f056762bf
Click to expand...



DONT do lightning, spooks the fish and also keep in mind that fish dont have iris's, its a dumb gimmick.
 
TheReefNinja said:
Woa just read this any thing better I can buy?

The DS1307 is simple and inexpensive but not a high precision device. It may lose or gain up to 2 seconds a day. For a high-precision, temperature compensated alternative, please check out the ChronoDot.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be to worried about 2 seconds a day. At worst its a minute a month. But if it is +/- equally it will generally always be correct.
 
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Katchupoy,

Thank you very much for simple guide, it's nicely laid out. I've been waiting to start my own as well and have confidence now on which parts are needed to start it all only difference is that I'm using the 48p version.

Just one question so far, you mentioned that you setup a wavemaker, on/off style. Have you considered trying to vary the power to them? This is something I'm currently researching on how to do but haven't found anyone who's actually completed it yet. I'm using 2 korlia evolutions and would rather not turn them off completely due to the audible clicking on them. I'd rather ramp them up and down if possible.
 
Ok here is an update....

WIRING ARDUINO + LCD SHIELD

ArduinoLCDWiring.jpg



You see, when you put the LCD shield on top of Arduino, you will cover up all the pins. This way (using jumpers), we will be able to free up UNUSED pins. Remember we still need to put the RTC DS1307.

You will also notice that, I avoided as much as possible all PWM pins, 6 of them. This will be very important for our connection to our Transistor/LED/Dimmer.

REMEMBER: Digital Pins 0 and 1 are reserved.
 
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King_Richard said:
Have you considered trying to vary the power to them? This is something I'm currently researching on how to do but haven't found anyone who's actually completed it yet. I'm using 2 korlia evolutions and would rather not turn them off completely due to the audible clicking on them. I'd rather ramp them up and down if possible.
Click to expand...


Sorry, Im not familiar with Koralia or their power requirements. Im just using maxijets + mod and they handle the on/off pretty well.

With a quick reading???

The new Koralia Evolutions work fine on a wavemaker. I've set them up on an Apex controller switching every 10 seconds.

You cannot compare experience with the old model Koralias with the new Evolutions. The Evolution models are designed to work properly with an inexpensive A/C wavemaker.

The Natural Wave, Red Sea Wavemaker or any other wavemaker/switching device will work.
Click to expand...

Is this true? that the newer ones can handle on/off without noise? If yes, then it can be done with Ardduino.
 
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The evolution cn handle on off. Mine have a slight click when turned on. One was really bad a first but I disassembled reassembled it and it is much quiter. I am not rue if they can handle a ramp down in voltage. Or what there max on off cycle rate is. I have email Hydor and will post when I get answers.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
if they can handle a ramp down in voltage. Or what there max on off cycle rate is.
Click to expand...

Dont worry about this. Since we are not going to attach it to PWM pins. We will just put it on a regular on and off pin/s. It will be just a simple and clean ON and OFF.

Used to have Natural Wavetimer, and after 7 years of service, it just died on me.
 
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