Another option for red bugs

Well so far so good. No negative effects on anything in the tank. I dipped my Hawkins an hour ago (2ml /2cups water) &it looks good. Normaly you dip that guy and the skin peals immediately . One stag I have has never looked colorwise . Now it has a nice purple coming out. My validia lost a lot of color and has rebounded nicely.In 4 days its got some good color back and the polops are out like crazy. everything I have dipped I followed up with a sw rinse .

I do have to admit I am going to dip a large rock with 4 large colonies . I am going so set up 2 separate. rinse/soak tanks
 
OK, I just treated my coral that had red bugs, I used 8ml in 12 cups of salt water for 12 mins.

Here is the before
purplegreenp.jpg


and here is the after shots, the coral even have better PE after the treatment. This photo was taken 1 hour after the treatment
purplegreenpaftertreatment.jpg
 
I do not want to take away from this thread or hijack it in any way but thought I would share my experience with red bugs.

I had them for months. I found a vet who will sell me Interceptor any time I need it. It is like $10 a pill though. Not cheap but cheap when compared to my $200 coral that is getting eaten.

Anyways I dosed for 4 straight weeks leaving the interceptor in the tank for up to 24 hours. I lost my sexy shrimp, crabs and a TON of pods. My tank still hasn't rebounded and it has been 3 or 4 months since I treated.

Even after 4 weeks of treating with Interceptor I had red bugs on corals. I probably killed 95% of them but there were stragglers and they mounted a come back. I got so sick of them I finally quit dosing and let them do their thing. I was using an entire pill for every dose and it didn't do the job. I only have a 40 gallon tank!

Finally one day I had to move the tank. The water got extremely cold, 65 to 66F. It remained there for probably 4 hours. Since then, I don't have a single red bug in the tank. My corals that had ZERO polyp extension for months, now have color back and full PE.

I found some others on here who stated that when they had a power outage it dropped their tank down in the 60s and they no longer had a red bug problem.

I am not saying that cold temps kill Red Bugs. I have no scientific proof of that but I have the proof that my tank is red bug free since my tanks water dropped down nice and cold for a few hours.

I don't think it is all coincidence.

How did your fish do with the reduced temp?
 
One thing about the Bayer product that concerns me is that although will be using it as a coral dip, I will NOT be using it as a terrestrial insect control. I believe the active ingredient in the product is a neonicotenoid insecticide. These types of neonicotenoid insecticides have been in the news lately for very likely having serious and potentially disastrous consequences to bee populations. I will also be running my used dip water through carbon to try to break the substance down into its more harmless constituents prior to disposal in my septic system. I would rather dump it into the septic where it can be broken down further rather pouring it somewhere in my yard/driveway which seems to be more directly in the environment.

Don't mean to derail this thread or discourage the use of this product/method as results have shown to be very promising for eliminating both AEFW and RB pests - but the neonicotenoid insecticides need make me nervous to say the least due to the potential environmental impact.

Can someone with more experience and knowledge of this product and the recently revealed potental problems clarify please? If this is infact the same insecticide of concern, what are good methods of disposal?
 
One thing about the Bayer product that concerns me is that although will be using it as a coral dip, I will NOT be using it as a terrestrial insect control. I believe the active ingredient in the product is a neonicotenoid insecticide. These types of neonicotenoid insecticides have been in the news lately for very likely having serious and potentially disastrous consequences to bee populations. I will also be running my used dip water through carbon to try to break the substance down into its more harmless constituents prior to disposal in my septic system. I would rather dump it into the septic where it can be broken down further rather pouring it somewhere in my yard/driveway which seems to be more directly in the environment.

Don't mean to derail this thread or discourage the use of this product/method as results have shown to be very promising for eliminating both AEFW and RB pests - but the neonicotenoid insecticides need make me nervous to say the least due to the potential environmental impact.

Can someone with more experience and knowledge of this product and the recently revealed potental problems clarify please? If this is infact the same insecticide of concern, what are good methods of disposal?

I raised this issue back somewhere on page 7:


I guess you are probably going to just have to do some experimenting like Whisperer did. As I understand it, Imidacloprid (the active ingredient in this treatment) is banned in Canada (and France too), mostly due to its suspected link with colony collapse disorder in honey bees.

Good luck.

Cheers
Mike

But, as to your question of disposal - I don't know. I will ask my entomologist coworker though, to see if she has any ideas.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike. I guess I hadn't read carefully enough to notice that it was already mentioned it. I'd be interested to know what you find out if this is the product to be concerned about, and how to dispose of it after use to minimize this impact.
 
I've got to say I'm always up for new ideas and experimentation and want to first of all say thanks to the ones which have tested there corals and driven it to what it is today. For this to ever become a proven method, it really needs to be documented on what worked, what did not work, and so forth.

I'd have to agree with TMZ that this thread has gone every which way with no real sense of direction and really think an adoption could be made if a dosage could be determined and it is documented whether or not a particular coral reacts as expected. That being said, I've created a shared Google doc which I think would help the community if we could track everything.

The criteria to fill in is as follows:
- Coral - What coral did you dip?
- Bayer Dip - Which Bayer dip was used?
- Concentration - How much saltwater and how much Bayer? (Please keep both in metric as it makes the most sense. Let's go with how much Bayer you would use for 1 Liter)
- Dip Time - How long did you dip?
- Results - Good/Bad (Basically the coral responded in acceptable time frame and did not die)
- Notes - At the concentration used, what die off did you observe? Did the coral lose coloration or barely pull through? Anything specific which is for the better for the community?

Google Doc: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ag8LSYGLKscIdER3eE9nN0VLeE9ISE1Ma2M4b0lNM0E

Thanks in advance if you take the time to fill out what you've had sucess with . From what I've seen this is the good/bad but dosages are unclear so if you have done treatment, please provide your results in the spreadsheet so we can better determine a good regimen!

***Copied directly from thread, sorry for lack of organization:
Good:
SPS, aussie scolys, acan bowerbanki, lords, mille, birdsnests, acros, several species of acropora, montipora, favias, zoas, sinulara, and gonipora, zoas, orange plate, shrooms and acans, frogspawn, hammer, duncan, acan, chalices, 1 Pulsing Xenia, 1 Acro, 1 Bird's Nest, 1 Blasto1 Sympodium, 20 Zoa/Paly

Bad:
A. hyacinthus (Picky acro)
 
OK, I just treated my coral that had red bugs, I used 8ml in 12 cups of salt water for 12 mins.

Here is the before
purplegreenp.jpg


and here is the after shots, the coral even have better PE after the treatment. This photo was taken 1 hour after the treatment
purplegreenpaftertreatment.jpg

Its obvious that you have adjusted the color balance of these photos to make the before/after shot more dramatic. I don't know what your motivation to falsely represent a product you don't make or profit from, but it is a dis-honest representation.
 
LOL, I didn't think he was selling anything. His point was the red bugs being eliminated. No one believes that the change in color was due to the dip, not even me, but it was understood. Take a chill pill, man.
 
....and back on track since everyone understood the coloration was not due to the dipping. If anyone comes across this rainbow dip, please share;)

No one willing to start contributing to shared spreadsheet so we can start to come up with a proven method for this? I will be documenting whatever frags I test with this weekend at fragswap but the bigger the sample size and experience the better!!!

Google Doc: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...E1Ma2M4b0lNM0E
 
Its obvious that you have adjusted the color balance of these photos to make the before/after shot more dramatic. I don't know what your motivation to falsely represent a product you don't make or profit from, but it is a dis-honest representation.

I am not trying to sell any products, i am only trying to show one photo has red bugs, one doesn't. It doesn't matter if I white color the photo or not. Do I have to use photoshop to correct all of my photos before I post it? This is about eliminating red bugs, not how much of the color changed!! Anyone looking at the photos can tell they are taken at different time. One w/ tan background, onw w/ blue background.

If you have any issue with me not white balancing my photos don't look at it. I would also suggest you think and read clearfully before you question other people's motive.

I dont know what you mean by me being dishonest of?? The photos color is different??

I feel your comments are a bite strange on this??

To make this clear, one photo was taken during the day, when my White lights was on, and the second one was at night when the blue lights was on hence, the blue shade. It has nothing to do w/ Bayer advance dip....
 
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....and back on track since everyone understood the coloration was not due to the dipping. If anyone comes across this rainbow dip, please share;)

No one willing to start contributing to shared spreadsheet so we can start to come up with a proven method for this? I will be documenting whatever frags I test with this weekend at fragswap but the bigger the sample size and experience the better!!!

Google Doc: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...E1Ma2M4b0lNM0E

Dustin, I am willing to help, but I dipped 20+ frags, and I don't know all their names, so I don't even know what I dipped. I know I dipped Millie's, aco, and that's all I know. If you have a photo of what you have, I will let you know if it is one I dipped.

I noticed one thing, I have 2 very small corals, smaller then 1/2", they didn't make it. I am not sure if it is due to the dip or poor handling? Those 2 was snapped off when I was removing the mother coral from my rock work.
 
The loss of tiny frags (less than 1 inch) from the dip is likely not related . I dipped a relatively big staghorn that resulted in fragmentation of several tips of less than an inch. I stuck them all in one plug and some did not make it (4 lived, 3 died). All are less than 1 inch.
 
Yea that's what I thought, because I dipped over 20 pieces all at once, none of the big ones has any issue and are fine and happy as of today.

I can see the base has new growth on the glue. So it's been 10 days and they are happy. I need to take some pictures of that....

Actually that reminds me, I have a green Millie that has 3 tiny tips that broke off like 1/4", I glue to one plug and they are still fine.

The 2 (1/2") that didnt make it is acro and it is the base.
 
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I'd say if you have an ID and know it was good with the dip, then go ahead and post the results. I've got some frags I picked up yesterday which I'll post to spreadsheet today...Went crazy at frag swap yesterday and picked up 27 but did not dip all of them in Bayer;)
 
OK, I spent sometime last night taking photos of all the corals I dipped, I am not sure if you can see my photo in my album, I have set it to public. Page 1 are all taken during the night, and photos in page 2 is during the morning time when PE are really extended.

If you can help identify them for me.

Another thing to remember, most of these frags are 1" to 3" in size. Some are smaller then 1".

And again, color of the frag should not be included in this conclusion that the product works, just want to show what I dipped them and they are all still alive in my tank over 10 days and the base is starting to grow over the new glue.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/album.php?albumid=6179
The following SPS and LPS (I think I have 1) have all survived the 12 minute tip in 12 cups of salt water with 8ML of BAC.

Here are the ones I got from Drs F & S.
Tri-color Acropora Coral
Rusty Pink Millepora
Bushy Acropora Coral Bali
DFS Blue Gomezi
Ultra Bushy Acropora Coral Bali (I think this is the Green Millie I got)
Red Cap

The rest are from my LPS which I dont know the name or type. But it all suppose to have blue tips or blue PEs or pink or purple tips or neon green PE. I think one is a red planet, but my LPS said it is not.
 
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