tkeracer619
New member
Prazi may not get internal pests. I always feed food that I make with Metronidazole.
Anthias dying one by one
- Thread starter hanas
- Start date
fishfreak2009
Swimming in the School
If you want to find out for sure, Idexx Reference Labs will test dead fish for cyanide left over in their flesh. Its an expensive test (around $300) but it would be worth it to find out. I was going to send in the last regal angelfish I lost, but the specimen was thrown away accidentally by a coworker (we did the necropsy, but they didn't realize it was being sent in for testing as well).
If you are able to isolate the butterfly in a tank of newly mixed up synthetic saltwater for a 24 hour span, you can also collect a water sample and have it tested for thiocyanate, a byproduct of cyanide exposure in reef fish. There are a couple laboratories in Florida and California that are able to detect thiocyanate in the water, confirming the diagnosis. This test is slightly less expensive than the test up above. Try googling an aquatics vet in California or Florida or the University of Florida Tropical Aquaculture Lab and they can give you phone numbers for various labs.
I don't think it matters. In the end, you won't know if your next order is cyanided anyways.
Yet, we pay premium to our suppliers for #%@^@^.
I am not happy about it.
Yet, we pay premium to our suppliers for #%@^@^.
I am not happy about it.
Tripod1404
Active member
Best option is to avoid fish originating from south east Asia where cyanide fishing is widespread. Try to get fish coming around great barrier reef, such as Australia, Vanuatu, Fiji, solomon islands and etc. Cyanide fishing is not practiced in those regions.
fishfreak2009
Swimming in the School
But it does, if you know your fish were collected with cyanide you can spend your money elsewhere. Know your supplier. Do not buy direct ship fish. Avoid wholesalers known to sell fish with issues. I've actually cut myself down from about 6 different fish stores and online vendors down to 2 LFS. Both stores either use A&M Aquatics in Lansing MI or Segrest Farms in Florida. Also you can avoid fish from certain areas, like I posted earlier. Fish from Hawaii, Florida, the Maldives, and the Cook Islands cost a premium for good reason: they are collected better, and held and conditioned better before being sold.
Edit: For what it's worth, I avoid Quality Marine like the plague. Over the years I've had way more fish come with ich, velvet, flukes, Uronema, Vibrio, and even Marine tuberculosis from Quality Marine than from any other wholesaler in the country. I lost over $5000 worth of fish (my previous setup) because of marine tuberculosis from a quality marine fish that a family member added to the tank as a gift. Never again. It's not a pretty sight having to sterilize a 380 gallon tank containing roughly 65 fish at the time, and having to euthanize all the fish (they were all dropping like flies and there is no treatment for marine TB in saltwater fish).
Can you tell me the symptoms of marine tuberculosis?
I would like to know.
Thank you
I would like to know.
Thank you
fishfreak2009
Swimming in the School
Never tried. I like to see my fish before I buy them and observe them eating and doing well. I've been screwed over too many times over the past 14 years.
Edit: as for marine TB, they get red sores similar to Uronema. They also die within 2-3 days of showing symptoms. Those that do live longer go off feed, become skinny, and often develop kinks in the spine. Again, you can send it in for culture. I did that as well as attempted to identify it under a scope using a swab at the clinic I work and I was correct. Diagnosis was confirmed by reference lab.
fishfreak2009
Swimming in the School
5 gallons of bleach directly into the tank. If anything survives that it deserves to survive.
fishfreak2009
Swimming in the School
Yup. I let the whole system run with bleach in it like that for 3 days. Basement smelled like a public pool.
Edit: 5 teaspoons of bleach makes 50 gallons of water safe to drink so I did go super overboard, but it worked. I also kept some freshwater fish in the tank for a short time after sterilization to make sure they didn't contract anything. Tore that down and reset it up as a saltwater about 2 months later.
ginpang
New member
Anthias dying one by one
When I caught it they gave me minocycline for 6 months. I couldn't save who I thought was the culprit but saved everyone else with neomycin.
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When I caught it they gave me minocycline for 6 months. I couldn't save who I thought was the culprit but saved everyone else with neomycin.
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Irishdolphin
New member
Just wondering if the fact that in all cases mentioned the chronology of deaths is strictly from smallest first to largest last suggests there might be something other than cyanide at play here? Or is it simply the cyanide kills in that specific orde because relatively speaking the smaller fish are getting higher doses?
anthonys51
New member
I would think it wouldn't be poisoning either but to be honest I have no idea. Will all them dying smallest to weakest it's puzzling. I had a pair live for 2 years in a 57 started with 4. 2 died in first month or so. I had 8 other fish in there with them.
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anthonys51
New member
If I had to guess I am thinking a combo or internal disease or parasite combined with malnutrition or not eating enough. It would explain why it started with the smallest weakest first. Not time try soaking the food in some type of medication first. Might work. But I will admit it's just a guess
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I wanted to provide an update on my original post from January....
About a week or so after my original post date, the smaller anthias began eating again and was acting completely normal until this past week, where it is now displaying the same symptoms again. It will eat some pieces of food (and hold it so I know it's consumed), but also spit some out.
I have noticed a part of the back fan has been nipped so I'm inclined to think it's hierarchical picking amongst the anthias trio, would this happen in cycles? Meaning several months apart like in this case?
Considering I've used 3 rounds of Prazi in QT and these fish have been in my display tank since October, I would have to rule out flukes or other types of internal parasites since I don't think that would come and go without treatment....meaning the fish wouldn't have survived in January when it first displayed these behaviors. In addition, no new fish have been added either, and I always follow the same QT procedure so nothing new could have been added.
Could this just be a cyclical pecking order amongst the trio? They are all females currently....
About a week or so after my original post date, the smaller anthias began eating again and was acting completely normal until this past week, where it is now displaying the same symptoms again. It will eat some pieces of food (and hold it so I know it's consumed), but also spit some out.
I have noticed a part of the back fan has been nipped so I'm inclined to think it's hierarchical picking amongst the anthias trio, would this happen in cycles? Meaning several months apart like in this case?
Considering I've used 3 rounds of Prazi in QT and these fish have been in my display tank since October, I would have to rule out flukes or other types of internal parasites since I don't think that would come and go without treatment....meaning the fish wouldn't have survived in January when it first displayed these behaviors. In addition, no new fish have been added either, and I always follow the same QT procedure so nothing new could have been added.
Could this just be a cyclical pecking order amongst the trio? They are all females currently....
