I find having a small wave maker or circulation pump in my anthias QT tank to be enormously beneficial in getting them to move around and chase food. May want to try that if you haven't already.
Anthias Frustration
- Thread starter MammoDoc
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I find having a small wave maker or circulation pump in my anthias QT tank to be enormously beneficial in getting them to move around and chase food. May want to try that if you haven't already.
Here is a reference indicating nitrofurazone treatment (and methylene blue, also in Nitrofuracin green powder) - http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/10/aafeature1 See the treament section for uronema.
It would be great if someone were able to get ahold of the references (Chueng et al., 1980. Bassleer, 1983) to see what the actual studies were.
All this said - metrodonzial is now my current goto med when I suspect uronema.
-Matt
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LukFox
Active member
Very interesting, I hadn't heard that before, but then it has been years since I've researched uronema in depth. I have to say it worked wonderfully in my case.
Another note to keep in mind is that the Uronema parasite will kill and damage fish cells while digging though the body eating. This opens up pathways for otherwise rare bacteria to enter the fish body and become a full infection. Treating both the parasite and bacteria are likely required to get a full recovery. Furans/metro are good here because they can do both, although with metro I add kanamycin during treatment.
So what would you guys do with the Anthias who are still in the QT but not moving much? I was hoping they would come around, but they just hover and occasionally move. Still not eating. Just wait for them to die? I'm tempted to put the Carberryi in the DT and see how it does. It looks stressed more than anything. I don't see any obvious sign of disease and they've been treated with MetroPlex, Prazi, Paraguard and Kanamycin.
Big E
Premium Member
I like to have the flow in the QT in a circular motion and heavy enough so when you drop food in it is constantly passing by them.
If the fish are in the water column you just need to get a feeing response. To start, the food may have to be tiny. Use stinky food like finely minced scallops or clam.
Use smaller Mysis or smash them up a bit. Smaller foods just to get a response like Calanus or live brine can work.
If the fish are in the water column you just need to get a feeing response. To start, the food may have to be tiny. Use stinky food like finely minced scallops or clam.
Use smaller Mysis or smash them up a bit. Smaller foods just to get a response like Calanus or live brine can work.
Thanks for that advice, but I've tried all of that. There is very good flow in the QT, the mysis and other food definitely blow around well, and the 1 Ignitus and 1 Resplendent that were in there with these other fish ate well. They are now in the DT and doing well.
The Carberryi initially was the 1st one eating, but it stopped eating as did 2 of the remaining Ignitus. They just hover near the bottom or the corners of the tank. But no external spots, marks, hemorrhage or anything.
The Carberryi initially was the 1st one eating, but it stopped eating as did 2 of the remaining Ignitus. They just hover near the bottom or the corners of the tank. But no external spots, marks, hemorrhage or anything.
Big E
Premium Member
That isn't normal..........they have to be sick. I'd look into treating for internal or bacterial diseases.
I missed that they were eating and they aren't now.
The only other thought would be to turn off the lights and see if their behavior changes.........if it doesn't they are sick.
I'd look to ask some experts what the best move for treatments would be.
I missed that they were eating and they aren't now.
The only other thought would be to turn off the lights and see if their behavior changes.........if it doesn't they are sick.
I'd look to ask some experts what the best move for treatments would be.
So as a follow up, out of perhaps 20 anthias that I received this early winter, only 2 Ignitus, 1 Resplendent, 1 Lyretail and 3 Carberryi Anthias made it through QT. Interestingly, all 3 Carberryi were from DD and all made it, so the price seems to be worth it at least as far as anthias go.
For the lone Lyretail and Resplendent survivors, do you think they would be OK being the lone fish of their species? Or would you suggest getting more and playing Anthias Roulette again?
For the lone Lyretail and Resplendent survivors, do you think they would be OK being the lone fish of their species? Or would you suggest getting more and playing Anthias Roulette again?
It's weird with these things. I ordered two groups of resplendents back last summer and of the 13 that went into QT, 13 came out (though things haven't gone quite so well in the display 
). Conversely, in the Fall I bought five tukas, got them eating, but then lost them all to uronema-like symptoms.
Assuming healthy arrivals, the key for me moving forward is to get the resplendents to at least 2" in QT before adding them to the display. This may mean a very long QT, but of the 13 that went into my display, none that were less than 1 1/2" have survived.
). Conversely, in the Fall I bought five tukas, got them eating, but then lost them all to uronema-like symptoms.Assuming healthy arrivals, the key for me moving forward is to get the resplendents to at least 2" in QT before adding them to the display. This may mean a very long QT, but of the 13 that went into my display, none that were less than 1 1/2" have survived.
Big E
Premium Member
My LA experience with similar type anthias--
They definitely need to be in good shape from the get go. My first group of 3 Randalls were all around 1.5"-1.75" and emaciated. It took me 8 weeks to get them filled out and I still lost two of them around the 7 week mark.
Bought 3 more to group with the remaining female I had. These were much larger and definitely more healthy from day one. They sent me all males which was irritating.
I also got 2 Ignitis that were in good shape too, and large 2"+.
I still had to fatten them up in QT.
Right now all 6 anthias have been in my display for about 5 weeks and they're flourishing.
Don't move them to the display until they are attacking the food with a frenzy in QT..................by that time they will have learned to eat much larger chunks of food..........that's a big key.
I feed Hikari Mysis, PE Mysis, chopped/minced scallops, shrimp, and clams.
The fresh seafood really gets them in a frenzy. The scallops are their favorites.
They won't eat pellets yet, but I'm guessing over time they will.
What I may do differently---
I match temp and if salinity matches they go in QT quickly. I want them together and out of those bags asap.
I don't do any prophylactic treating or dipping(out of the bag) I prefer to deal with that if the need arises later. My main goal is to reduce stress.
I fed heavily & often.
Keep the water fresh and clean in QT. I did water changes weekly about 30%.
QT tank is a 29g tank that I filled to about 20g. I wanted to give them more space than other fish may need.
For other type fish I would do a few things differently as far a pre-treatments or dips, but these fish are so social and can be very timid early on so I focused on reducing stress.
They definitely need to be in good shape from the get go. My first group of 3 Randalls were all around 1.5"-1.75" and emaciated. It took me 8 weeks to get them filled out and I still lost two of them around the 7 week mark.
Bought 3 more to group with the remaining female I had. These were much larger and definitely more healthy from day one. They sent me all males which was irritating.
I also got 2 Ignitis that were in good shape too, and large 2"+.
I still had to fatten them up in QT.
Right now all 6 anthias have been in my display for about 5 weeks and they're flourishing.
Don't move them to the display until they are attacking the food with a frenzy in QT..................by that time they will have learned to eat much larger chunks of food..........that's a big key.
I feed Hikari Mysis, PE Mysis, chopped/minced scallops, shrimp, and clams.
The fresh seafood really gets them in a frenzy. The scallops are their favorites.
They won't eat pellets yet, but I'm guessing over time they will.
What I may do differently---
I match temp and if salinity matches they go in QT quickly. I want them together and out of those bags asap.
I don't do any prophylactic treating or dipping(out of the bag) I prefer to deal with that if the need arises later. My main goal is to reduce stress.
I fed heavily & often.
Keep the water fresh and clean in QT. I did water changes weekly about 30%.
QT tank is a 29g tank that I filled to about 20g. I wanted to give them more space than other fish may need.
For other type fish I would do a few things differently as far a pre-treatments or dips, but these fish are so social and can be very timid early on so I focused on reducing stress.
davocean
Active member
The hardest part of keeping anthia is just getting them past that initial period of QT and and intro, and the smaller they are the more sensitive they seem.
I just got 4 dispars, 2 survived, and they are eating which is of course critical, I have to tell myself I should be happy w/ a 50/50 survival, but you know...
I'm so used to this type of outcome initially I was looking at my lyretails on intro and it was confusing to me that every single one lived!
Good luck whatever you decide to do.
I just got 4 dispars, 2 survived, and they are eating which is of course critical, I have to tell myself I should be happy w/ a 50/50 survival, but you know...
I'm so used to this type of outcome initially I was looking at my lyretails on intro and it was confusing to me that every single one lived!
Good luck whatever you decide to do.
Received the Resplendents yesterday, all came in alive I ordered mostly small females and got mostly small females. Very small, like 1", a few even smaller. They look pretty good though, no emaciation. Going to follow BigE's regimen for the most part; no prophyillatic medication, fresh seafoods, etc. Will give occasional updates. All 8 fish currently housed in a 20g QT.
Big E
Premium Member
Those are tiny anthias......the raw food may have to be put in a small blender to make it finer. The Hikari regular Mysis is smaller, which might help but you still have to mash it up. I just used my fingers with a little water in a small cup......you can decide as you go.
Setup up a power head to create a circular motion in the tank........when new, they wait for the food to go by. The food will stay suspended and pass by over and over.
Good luck..........definitely keep up posted.
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