Any tricks to getting Angels to eat???

[ccampbell57]

Another great seceret to get angels (especially small ones) to eat is take frozen fresh clams and finely grate it on a cheese grater (smallest setting), then just sprinkle it in the tank.

My 1.75" bandit just looked at brine and mysis, then I tossed in some of this and he went nuts.

Try that..

 

[RBU1]

I assume the Africanus is 2" (would love to get one that size or smaller myself) and the Chrysurus is 4-5" correct? I find it better to just feed small amount of variety of food every feeding till the fish starts to eat and during this time don't worry too much whether it eats or not. Some of my finicky angels takes anywhere from 5-7.5 weeks before eating.

As for the Africanus it's better to QT on its own or the least separate the rest with eggcrate. When you have 4 fishes in a QT it's not QT anymore but rather close to a community tank and may cause lots of stress. Hey, I'm guilty of that myself at times but I've come to the realization individuals tends to eat prepared food quicker while in QT. I would also agree to perform a fresh water dip to eliminate possibility of flukes. Good luck with your new additions!

Just my 2 cents.

This is not a reg size QT tank. It is a 125. I thought that the 4 small fish would be fine in there. Am I wrong?

 

[RBU1]

Also the 4 fish are a 2" Africanus 2" multicolored pygmy angel and 2 real small yellow coris wrasse.

 

[davelin315]

A 2" multicolored is going to be closer to being a mature fish and therefore more territorial and aggressive than a 2" full size angel. I would think that the multicolor might be picking on the africanus. One other thing, stress in a QT can kill a fish, especially a small fish. I have actually seen a fish have what was believed to be a heart attack and die in front of me at a friend's house. Perhaps he'll chime in here as it was quite shocking to see and is an expert on this type of fish.

 

[RBU1]

A 2" multicolored is going to be closer to being a mature fish and therefore more territorial and aggressive than a 2" full size angel. I would think that the multicolor might be picking on the africanus. One other thing, stress in a QT can kill a fish, especially a small fish. I have actually seen a fish have what was believed to be a heart attack and die in front of me at a friend's house. Perhaps he'll chime in here as it was quite shocking to see and is an expert on this type of fish.

Yes you are correct. The multicolor is tormenting the africanus a little. When I put a clam in the tank they both go to it but the Pygmy will chase him away.

I was thinking about taking a ride to home depot and getting some eggcrate to split the tank in half. I thought there were no real territories in a treatment tank because its just PVC pipe. My hope is that the fish make it thru the next 2 weeks of the copper and when they get in to the main tank start to settle down and eat like normal.

I am treating with copper so that I never introduce ich to my main display again. I ordered a copper colorimeter so I can more accurately measure the copper level and not have to try and figure out what color blue I am looking at. Hopefully the colorimeter will arrive at around the same time I am ready to put these guys in the main tank so I can verify that my thought of being in the .4 treatment range can be confirmed.

 

[RBU1]

I appreciate all the replies....I would like to see a forum dedicated to angel owners...

They are some intersting fish......with some very different behaviors.

 

[flameangel88]

I thought there were no real territories in a treatment tank because its just PVC pipe.

A 125g is large for QT but when you've multiple fish in there with just pvc then it's not a QT anymore because there's no shelter anymore for them to feel secure. If you've a 20g you'd be fine with just one fish where it doesn't have to run for cover from another fish.

I QT multiple fish but I've to monitor very closely that none of them are getting stressed which is not easy so I now wait till one comes out before putting another in. Life is much easier on you and the fish.

Not sure if this is the case--please ignore if its not. If your DT just been treated with copper or hypo I would take it easy on adding fish in there so the biological filter can get a chance to catchup.

 

[RBU1]

My display has just been left fallow for 14 weeks to rid the tank of ich. Its been running for a little over 2 years. I am just starting to stock the tank again.

 

[tcmfish]

The PVC is the territory!! Just because it is not rock doesn't mean they can't use it. And if they multi is attacking the angel from eating how do you expect it to eat???

Hopefully you can separate them and things will be good.

 

[RBU1]

The PVC is the territory!! Just because it is not rock doesn't mean they can't use it. And if they multi is attacking the angel from eating how do you expect it to eat???

Hopefully you can separate them and things will be good.

Attacking is a harse word. Don't think I used that one. Harrasing is more like it.

 

[tcmfish]

Either way, wouldn't you agree that it would be best not being harassed?

 

[RBU1]

Either way, wouldn't you agree that it would be best not being harassed?

Yes I agree. I don't think that is my problem however. The fish will be side to side with the multi while picking on the clam. I do think that the copper and the species of fish might have something to do with it. I am not an expert on angels but I am trying to learn. It appears to me that angels have a personality of their own and based on some reading I have done they can go a long time without eating. Not sure why that is yet, but I assume they have a real slow metabolism.

This is just an assumption and you know what they say about those.....But my hope is that after another 2 weeks in the copper the fish will go in the main display. At that time he will be free of copper and I hope he begins to eat.

 

[RBU1]

Another great seceret to get angels (especially small ones) to eat is take frozen fresh clams and finely grate it on a cheese grater (smallest setting), then just sprinkle it in the tank.

My 1.75" bandit just looked at brine and mysis, then I tossed in some of this and he went nuts.

Try that..

I will try this tomorrow. Thanks

 

[flameangel88]

It appears to me that angels have a personality of their own and based on some reading I have done they can go a long time without eating. Not sure why that is yet, but I assume they have a real slow metabolism.

Small juvenile has high metabolism thus require multiple feedings through out the day. Three inch + angels can go on weeks and possibly 2 months without eating prepared food but still need established live rocks for them to graze. I've about close to 60lbs of base rocks (3+ years) in the QT where I keep a small Cuban hogfish and LMB to clean. The bad thing with Cuban hog is that they grow fast and after they get big they stop cleaning fish and wants to eat the little ones.

 

[JonSadowsky]

he picks at it...

I have had good luck by using a small pair of scissors (cuticle) to cut up the fresh clam in the half shell to help small angels rip off small bites.

Once they get started on that I start introducing finely chopped clam into the water flow in the QT. The movement seems to get their attention. Once they are actively chasing and feeding off the chopped clams I start adding a few pellets to the mix... Usually takes at least two weeks to three weeks in the worst cases I've had before they were eating pellets well. From there it was usually time to move the to the DT and I have found that once there it does not take long before they are eating everything. I have done four Regals, three Venustus and four Flames this way.

Jon

 

[Terra Ferma]

My display has just been left fallow for 14 weeks to rid the tank of ich. Its been running for a little over 2 years. I am just starting to stock the tank again.

My advice, based on, well, my experience:

1) No need to treat the fish for the first week unless it is visibly ill - give it a week to settle into QT. A nice quiet tank and turning of all flow during feeding time will allow the fish to to find, sniff, and then eat food. I've had great luck with NLS as a first food.

2) I greatly prefer hypo to copper; as you have found copper can cause lock jaw

3) All fish must be treated for flukes/internal parasites nowadays. This was not needed 5-10 years ago, but it is now. Not sure why. I use Prazi and then Metronidazole, and feed with Metronidazole food.

4) With the hypo, Prazi, Metro, etc...the fish will need to be in QT for 8 weeks.

5) Depending on the size of your QT, do 25% water changes daily and re-dose meds in the proper amount. I usually QT in a 20 gallons and do 50% water changes daily.

Try and get the first eating before you bombard it with meds. Even the most mild of meds (Prazi) can cause lock jaw so better to put a little wait on the fish before he undergoes the process. If you must treat with something to fight ich, etc, I've found Quinine Sulfate to work better and cause less issues than Copper.

Good luck!

 

[RBU1]

My advice, based on, well, my experience:

1) No need to treat the fish for the first week unless it is visibly ill - give it a week to settle into QT. A nice quiet tank and turning of all flow during feeding time will allow the fish to to find, sniff, and then eat food. I've had great luck with NLS as a first food.

2) I greatly prefer hypo to copper; as you have found copper can cause lock jaw

3) All fish must be treated for flukes/internal parasites nowadays. This was not needed 5-10 years ago, but it is now. Not sure why. I use Prazi and then Metronidazole, and feed with Metronidazole food.

4) With the hypo, Prazi, Metro, etc...the fish will need to be in QT for 8 weeks.

5) Depending on the size of your QT, do 25% water changes daily and re-dose meds in the proper amount. I usually QT in a 20 gallons and do 50% water changes daily.

Try and get the first eating before you bombard it with meds. Even the most mild of meds (Prazi) can cause lock jaw so better to put a little wait on the fish before he undergoes the process. If you must treat with something to fight ich, etc, I've found Quinine Sulfate to work better and cause less issues than Copper.

Good luck!

Wow thats an extensive routine you have there....I prefer the copper. However next time I will remove all the copper from the water make sure the fish are eating then add copper slow...

I was not concerned with these fish because like I said earlier they were already in Cupramine at .25 and eating.....I put then in the .25 for a couple days in my tank then slowly increased the cupramine to .5 Everyone s eating fine but the Africanus.

 

[RBU1]

Small juvenile has high metabolism thus require multiple feedings through out the day. Three inch + angels can go on weeks and possibly 2 months without eating prepared food but still need established live rocks for them to graze. I've about close to 60lbs of base rocks (3+ years) in the QT where I keep a small Cuban hogfish and LMB to clean. The bad thing with Cuban hog is that they grow fast and after they get big they stop cleaning fish and wants to eat the little ones.

Thats interesting about the metabolism. Well the Africanus is in the 2-3 inch range so I guess he is on the fence.....

How long and what types of angels have you kept long term?

Were in NJ are you. I am way south near Delaware.

 

[RBU1]

Does anyone know of an excellent book to read about angels? That covers all different aspects of their care and behaviors???

 

[Yurivd]

i have a chrysurus that is 10inch
And was not eating so i have force feed him
Now he has start to eat and i use 6500k globe to get more alge for the fish to eat of the rocks