Anyone else having issues with their euphyllia?

Interesting that this happened to so many people. The tank that I maintain at work recently had issues. I lost a 4 head torch, a duncan, and a frogspawn. No brown jelly just heads coming loose form skeleton. Interesting thing is I use the RO/DI from my work to transport water to my home tank (free water). I do however run carbon in my sump and all my euphyllia have been fine. Even though I spent a week in the hospital and lost a bunch of zoas.
 
I know everyone wants answers but if you are using a decent ro/di I can't believe chlorine can be the problem. I have been using the same filters and resin for close to 15 years. Back before chloramines. Shoot I even used water windmill before I got my system.
I might consider an infection from whatever before chlorine.
 
I doubt its a temp issue. 81 is not to hot. My tanks regularly hit 84 to 85 in the summer for years with multiple euphyllia and never had a problem.
 
Any updates guys? I've started to see some of the heads in my frogspawn starting to receed again. I don't know what is causing this. Temp had been stable for a while and in even adding Prime to the water I make just in case, but still I see some corals shrinking.

I hope someone figures this out soon.
 
Ive been dialing in my alk. It was a little low so ive been trying to bring it back up. So my corals have their moments throughout the day where they are fully retracted into their skeletons and then they will randomly come out about 50 percent and not really fully inflated. I test my water for chlorine and chloramines before every water change and my tds is still zero. I hope some tlc and time, that my corals will come back around
 
Just a quick update, just tested my tank (finally got a day off of work, even tho i should have went in to make some extra money lol)

(Api test kit)
Ph- 8.0-8.2
Ammonia- 0ppm
Nitrite- 0ppm
Nitrate- 0-5ppm (color in between 0 annd 5)

(red sea test kit)
Alk- 9.2dkh
Ca- 420 (tested before morning dose, usually 430-450)
And forgot to test magnesium but im sure its around 1290 area

All my euphyllia still look really upset and since my inital start of this thread the tank has developed a good sized area of red cyano in the back corner of the tank. Ill move my power head around to see if i can eliminate the dead spot. Ive also taken the 90 degree optics off of the led's. The light is roughly 4 inches from the top of the water so maybe 120 degree optics would work better, also reef breeders suggested i used 120 degree optics for the light at that height. All corals that lost all tissue were sadly removed from the tank. Only other thing i havent looked into is my sandbed depth. Its MAYBE a half inch thick, so im not sure if that will cause issues or not. At this point im taking it a day at a time, sticking to my weekly 5 gallon water changes and my morning doses of b-ionic. Ive also thought about fish waste being trapped in my live rock (i never syphon the rocks or blast them with a turkey baster to clean them) but when i used a turkey baster on the rocks practically no waste came off or out of them.
 
Parameters look good. A few comments, just based on my experience and not at all scientific.

  • IMHO, your parameters look good.
  • I think the issue is with light and heat. (just my opinion)
  • I had a great deal of improvement on my side by bringing all euphyllia corals to the sandbed or at least lower than they were
  • Don't do all these changes at once, but I would also look into changing flow a bit. These corals like some flow, but nothing too crazy
  • Check your return pump, mine was damaged. Therefore, temp reading looked fine in the controller because it was measuring only the sump temp, but the tank was getting much hotter, even with the house temp never going above 76.

I really hope we all find a common factor that we target and avoid all these beautiful corals dying.
 
Webmanny said:
Parameters look good. A few comments, just based on my experience and not at all scientific.

  • IMHO, your parameters look good.
  • I think the issue is with light and heat. (just my opinion)
  • I had a great deal of improvement on my side by bringing all euphyllia corals to the sandbed or at least lower than they were
  • Don't do all these changes at once, but I would also look into changing flow a bit. These corals like some flow, but nothing too crazy
  • Check your return pump, mine was damaged. Therefore, temp reading looked fine in the controller because it was measuring only the sump temp, but the tank was getting much hotter, even with the house temp never going above 76.

I really hope we all find a common factor that we target and avoid all these beautiful corals dying.
Click to expand...
Its been suggested to lower my euphyllia due to the fact that the led's could be too much for them, but the ones already on the sand are doing the exact same as the ones highest up. Plus i have a massive 4 head cornbred hell fire torch in the middle, so i cant move stuff too much or ill have a ticked off torch stinging everything lol. The flow has been good and not messed with since tank start up 2 years ago. But i also havent cleaned the return pump or the powerhead, so maybe they are not performing as good as they should be. im not too concerned about the cyano as its easy to remedy but i will address it. Im going to try my nano koralia pump close to the sand in the corner where the cyano is and move my main powerhead to the other side of the tank in between the 2 slotted sections of overflow chamber. Thatll put me with a mj1200 return pump, nano power head by sand bed on return pump side and a power head in between the overflow section on the opposite side midway in the tank. Should have flow bottom middle and top. Also water change today. If i can save my godly expensive torch coral out of all this ill be happy
 
nathan1986 said:
Its been suggested to lower my euphyllia due to the fact that the led's could be too much for them, but the ones already on the sand are doing the exact same as the ones highest up. Plus i have a massive 4 head cornbred hell fire torch in the middle, so i cant move stuff too much or ill have a ticked off torch stinging everything lol. The flow has been good and not messed with since tank start up 2 years ago. But i also havent cleaned the return pump or the powerhead, so maybe they are not performing as good as they should be. im not too concerned about the cyano as its easy to remedy but i will address it. Im going to try my nano koralia pump close to the sand in the corner where the cyano is and move my main powerhead to the other side of the tank in between the 2 slotted sections of overflow chamber. Thatll put me with a mj1200 return pump, nano power head by sand bed on return pump side and a power head in between the overflow section on the opposite side midway in the tank. Should have flow bottom middle and top. Also water change today. If i can save my godly expensive torch coral out of all this ill be happy
Click to expand...
Before I got to your last post I already had my suspicions. If you don't have a spectrometer, get one! Hydrometers are wildly inaccurate. The cyano tells me you're experiencing large swings in salinity, probably when topping off.
I almost lost a tank full of corals over a month and a half time, simply because my spectrometer was broken! I only found out when I took water to my LFS to get tested in desperation. They replaced my spectrometer for free. Once I brought my salinity back up to 1.025 - .027 , four heads
I thought were completely gone on my euphyllia actually came back within two weeks!
I know it's reefing 101, but calibrate, calibrate and cross test! They are super sensitive to salinity changes.
 
BTW, when the LFS tested my water that first time, it was at 1.019 and my spectrometer was reading 1.028!
 
Boom said:
Before I got to your last post I already had my suspicions. If you don't have a spectrometer, get one! Hydrometers are wildly inaccurate. The cyano tells me you're experiencing large swings in salinity, probably when topping off.
I almost lost a tank full of corals over a month and a half time, simply because my spectrometer was broken! I only found out when I took water to my LFS to get tested in desperation. They replaced my spectrometer for free. Once I brought my salinity back up to 1.025 - .027 , four heads
I thought were completely gone on my euphyllia actually came back within two weeks!
I know it's reefing 101, but calibrate, calibrate and cross test! They are super sensitive to salinity changes.
Click to expand...

This is 100% true. When my return pump went out, I also discovered that I has a bad batch of salt that I had been using for at least a month and my salinity was at 1.019 or something like that. I had gotten used to measuring the salt in a specific container that already had been proven to bring 5 gallons of water to perfect salinity. Therefore, I had stopped testing since it was always the same, but I never accounted for a bad batch of salt.

I agree with the above 100%. Bring your water to a LFS and have them test it with a few different types of equipment. If and when you do, please let us know how it went. I'm still curious and wanting to find a common element.
 
Just calibrated my refractometer but ill bring my water to faois tomorrow anyways. I doubt its a salinity thing because all the euphyllia in my 55g are perfectly fine and water is mixed the same exact way as i do on my biocube29. But to eliminate a possibility ill have the water tested across the board. Also i check salinity a few times a week as it only takes a few seconds. By my refractometer (calibrated once a week) the water in both of my tanks is usually 1.025-1.026. Ill post what faois finds with my water peramaters tomorrow
 
Don't forget to bring your refractometer with you and have them take a look. They may calibrate it there with RODI and find something different. Good luck!
 
Webmanny said:
Don't forget to bring your refractometer with you and have them take a look. They may calibrate it there with RODI and find something different. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Very simple instrument to calibrate, but ill bring it along for the ride as well. I also have a hydrometer that i tested on rogers water and it read exactly what he keeps his water at. Both my refractometer and my hydrometer show my salanity is well within proper level. But ill have them look at the refractometer anyways. Im all for eliminating possibilities
 
nathan1986 said:
Very simple instrument to calibrate, but ill bring it along for the ride as well. I also have a hydrometer that i tested on rogers water and it read exactly what he keeps his water at. Both my refractometer and my hydrometer show my salanity is well within proper level. But ill have them look at the refractometer anyways. Im all for eliminating possibilities
Click to expand...

True. I'm not doubting your skills calibrating this, I am sure they are well above par, but in my case, I also had a bad calibrating solution to start with and all these combine to create a total clusterf#*k for me.
 
I must've had too much to drink last night... repeatedly referring to my refractometer as "spectrometer" !
 
OMG, how embarrassing...but you all handled it with the real class! Cheers. I'm subscribed.
 
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