Anyone gone back to halides?

I've never had MH, tried T5 which worked well then went to led. I have used leds for about 3 years now but I've never been able to keep a decent montipora forest fire, red planet acropora or a strawberry shortcake acropora. I'm really considering trying MH to see if they make a difference. Any suggestions for a 900mm X 500mm X 600mm tank?


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...so we are talking like 30x20x24, right? If so, I would get a pair of 150W HQI with 14K phoenix bulbs and M81 ballasts. Only 325W, or so, of electricity, very little heat, great color and the bulbs can be used for 2 years. These are oft overlooked, but great smaller/shallower tank lights.
 
Keep in mind that EcoTech gave them to him for free and that Jake Adams and RB are also bankrolled by EcoTech, along with a lot of "higher end" vendors and some other hobbyists that you see constantly schill for them. Dr. Joshi gave a speech at MACNA in 2015, talked about losing a lot of different kinds of coral, some never looked the same, not being able to grow some still, how there is no energy savings, but he did appreciate not having to run a chiller anymore even though his heaters make up the difference in wattage. I think that Dr. Joshi's tank is a good case study when you take all of the variables into account, but there are a lot more than in that video. You can search around for some of his articles. He will never flat out say that he loves them nor will he flat out say that he hates them - he does a pretty good job of just laying it out there for people do decide on their own if they don't get a shortened version to just prove one side or the other.

I think that UVL still makes their own bulbs and perhaps some for other people.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not lobbying for leds based on his tank. I won't use all leds anymore, or led dominant, T5 with led supplementation is where ill stay. I didnt know about him losing a bunch of coral when he switched and all that. I was just pointing out he has a really impressive tank run on all leds (for a couple years I believe) and came from halide. His colors look really good on what he has in there. He do remember him pointing out some coral that never recovered their color fully. As you said though, its an interesting case study.

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...so we are talking like 30x20x24, right? If so, I would get a pair of 150W HQI with 14K phoenix bulbs and M81 ballasts. Only 325W, or so, of electricity, very little heat, great color and the bulbs can be used for 2 years. These are oft overlooked, but great smaller/shallower tank lights.



Great thanks for letting me know.


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One interesting point that a fellow local made was that he noted the people with the most success had their LEDs 2-3 feet off of the water. It certainly seemed true for the few local LED tanks I'd seen that I thought looked good.

I'm working with a canopy that I actually had made 2" sorter than traditional hoods both for aesthetics and to accommodate radions.

A couple of Hamilton pendants will still work and be easy to flip back to.



Really...2 to 3 ft??
 
I started with T12 Phillips actinics and daylights- then went to venture mh- the most yellow bulbs you ever saw!
Then I mixed venture mh with ushio blues and added vho actinics..
then I went t5 and de mh.
Then, ghl mitras.. I had decent success with health and growth but I hated what I was seeing when looking down at my Corals.
Went to mitras and t5 and didnt mind it but wasn’t happy..
Went back to radium mh with t5 and kicked myself for ever using LEDs
Then tried all t5. Corals were fantastic but I wasn’t happy without the mh sparkle.
I have now settled on my current mh/t5/ai prime led set up and really like it.
I won’t cuange any time soon but if I did I would certainly try the radion g4 pros.
I have seen some great results with those lights- growth and color.
LEDs have an ability to make corals look ‘spectacular ‘ even when they aren’t. To those coming into the hobby with LEDs they won’t know the didference but to us old fogies who saw corals the way god intended!! ;), we may always revert to mh..
 
I can’t really get a shot inside my cabinet to show the lights..
Basically it’s 3 t5 at rear, the 3 mh fixtures with a pair of Primes between them and 3 more t5 at front.
====== T5 x 3
[] : [] : [] Mh and Primes
====== T5 x 3
 
Not to start a war, but if you folks would like some LED's I'd go with the Kessil A360 series. Keep the color under 50% and pick whatever intensity you want and you're good to go. I like not having the ability to adjust ever color diode.

I run 1 360we per foot of tank along with four T5 bulbs for my sps.
 
I can't really get a shot inside my cabinet to show the lights..
Basically it's 3 t5 at rear, the 3 mh fixtures with a pair of Primes between them and 3 more t5 at front.
====== T5 x 3
[] : [] : [] Mh and Primes
====== T5 x 3

Fair enough. What MH reflectors/pendants are you running?

Thanks!
 
I have the XR30. I've also owned, and still do in a package, AI hydras. I like the colour on the AIs better.
Hm. Interesting. I just find that the extra LEDs in the radions cane do some pretty crazy things to the look of the corals that the ais can't.

Fair enough. What MH reflectors/pendants are you running?

Thanks!

I have the Hamilton ceyman sun reflectors for de bulbs. I quite like them.
 
I wish I had not sold my halides. After 2 years with led I really prefer the halides. However I certainly do not miss the cost in electricity consumption, the heat generation and expensive bulb replacement ever year.
 
Hm. Interesting. I just find that the extra LEDs in the radions cane do some pretty crazy things to the look of the corals that the ais can't.



I have the Hamilton ceyman sun reflectors for de bulbs. I quite like them.

I like your set up and think I might do something similar with Hamilton Bimini de reflectors and 3 Radion XR 15s.

Visually you can't beat the dawn dusk of LEDs but if I turn down the intensity, it should minimize the pin point burns on sensitive corals. Just be aesthetic. Then ramp down for T5s and off completely with Halides. I'm likin' it!

As for cost, I think I'm ok with it having experienced all sides of things. To me, it'll be worth it to have a pretty tank again. This latest one has proven to be a struggle. "œKnow your tanks personality", this ones a d**k.
 
Size your halides correctly and the cost will be very similar. Nobody ever needed 400W Halides over a 75G mixed reef when 70 or 150W halides could have worked. Correctly sizing can also make heat a complete non-factor.
 
I am just coming up on 2 years in the hobby, all of which until a week ago were with various LEDs. But never got the look I wanted and all the tanks I really was drawn towards had other lighting. So I just changed to Metal Halide / T5 hybred fixture and I love it. Tank looks better than ever before.

I get that you can grow corals with LEDs and the Radions are nice. But when I see that it takes 10 of them on Sanjays tank to equal what he grew with 3 MH, it makes me think. I dont want to spend $8k on lights where $1.5k would do and look better IMO.
 
Size your halides correctly and the cost will be very similar. Nobody ever needed 400W Halides over a 75G mixed reef when 70 or 150W halides could have worked. Correctly sizing can also make heat a complete non-factor.

Well, here's the problem with that, that it ignores the color factor. Not many people want to use 10k bulbs anymore, and having tried them, the lower wattage 20k bulbs tend to be a waste of time IMO, and I'd want to go with 250's on a 75 for that reason. And that's where the potentially similar cost of running halides goes out the window.
 
There are some really nice LED tanks out there but i will continue to stick with what works for me, MH + T5s.
 
Well, here's the problem with that, that it ignores the color factor. Not many people want to use 10k bulbs anymore, and having tried them, the lower wattage 20k bulbs tend to be a waste of time IMO, and I'd want to go with 250's on a 75 for that reason. And that's where the potentially similar cost of running halides goes out the window.
The Phoenix 14k bulb is regarded as one of the best bulbs ever created. The 150w version was absolutely amazing when I ran it and it's much closer to 20k than 14k IMO
 
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