Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

Could you be more specific about the type of LED's you were running? Try to give us the whole story, complete picture.

Does it really matter?
I ran Radions for a couple years, and the difference in just a few weeks from switching to mh/t5 was astounding.
YMMV but that was my experience as well as some others here.
 
I can't find too many pure led totm's . Elliot's tank on sols is interesting, but proof is in some of those insane T5/halide beasts. I've been like a moth to all things gadgety, led gets me every time as there's success stories but they are few. T5 I think still wins on colour :). Led blue supplement for looks is about the only use I have for LEDs now.

There will be a break through at some time, could be years away. For me anyway.
 
After 18 months of having corals in my tank I am still happy with my LED set up. I wish the coverage was better, but other than that no issues. My tank is doing really well.
 
just my opinion but LeDs works well in shallow reef tanks, but for some reason in deeper tanks halide and t5 combos works better. i love leds for the controlability ect. i dont mind power comsumption from metal halides but i mind the heat that comes with these lights
 
I believe I has a lot to do with which LEDs, there is a huge range of quality.

http://aquarium-digest.com/tag/best-led-reef-lights/

Not sure it may have already been posted, good read.

Well, from this website he says:

"See also this video explaining PWM, which I can almost guarantee if your LED fixture uses a cooling fan is NOT USING PWM."

This sentence right here just about invalidates the entire article. This is just a blatantly false claim. There's plenty more to criticize on this article, but I'll leave that for others.
 
Yep I've read this before. Issue I have is I believe all the science and the wonderful spectrum charts, I just can't get them to work. There's a huge amount of phycology that goes behind led units. No controlled studies of brand name lights for me is an issue, dumping $1000 of dollars into lighting is not something I've done thus DIY. I would love to see a controlled test , same system , multiple tanks , same flow and parameters, and a wide range of corals not just one, some like and grow crazy under one type of light. Where and who would do this without fear of being sued and torn apart on forums :)

And a set forget setting so I can't tinker the **** out of them, skewing the spectrum daily :)
 
Unfortunately, it looks like I'm going to be stuck ditching MH. I set up my new tank (with a 48" Cebu Sun 2x250W/4x54w fixture) in a new apartment about two months ago, and I've been unable to run both MH bulbs at once without getting random breaker trips. I've tried new bulbs, and tried running a spare ballast I had laying around. No dice. When both MH bulbs are on, there's a ~50% chance the breaker will trip on any given day. I can run either bulb alone with zero issues.

The circuit is rated for 15 amps, but it seems like any time I get close to 10A total, there's a good chance the breaker will trip. Oddly enough, it only happens once the lights have been running for at least 20 minutes. I'd expect it to happen when they kick on.

I'll be going back to my old 8x54W ATI + 2x BML setup. It's too bad, because I found my corals looked much better under Radiums, but if I had the breaker trip while I was away, I could lose the whole tank.
 
The circuit is rated for 15 amps, but it seems like any time I get close to 10A total, there's a good chance the breaker will trip. Oddly enough, it only happens once the lights have been running for at least 20 minutes. I'd expect it to happen when they kick on.

Most breakers are slow-acting (allowing very brief periods of high-amperage so that devices can start up). That's why it doesn't trip when they start. However, it sounds to me like either: A) There's something else on that same circuit (e.g. refrigerator) and everything is fine until that thing turns on and pushes the amperage over the limit. Or... B) The combination of the lights and other equipment is pulling more than you think, or more than the label says they should - you can check this with a Kill-A-Watt. Or ... C) The breaker is old - sometimes they will trip at less than their rated current if they're old.

Of those I'd say A or B is the most likely.
 
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In addition, each time a breaker trips, it trips at less current the next time. So you could try replacing the breaker and see if it is not just a worn breaker.

Also a 15A breaker trips at a much lower current (than 15A). A sustained current of 12.5A will trip a 15A breaker. So testing with a Kill-A-Watt is recommended to see just how much current your MH ballasts are drawing.

Dennis
 
I had a similar problem with an autoigniting natural gas burner for homebrew in my basement. Higher amp breaker solved the problem.
 
Does it really matter?


There's a ton of variables when it comes to Led. Like schedule, intensity, UV, spectrum, coverage, manufacturer, acclimation, optics, duration, generation etc. Not to mention husbandry. So when people post about led's I'm just curious to get the whole picture. I love my halides, but I'm trying out some gen 3 radions supplemented with T5's in order to reduce heat. I'll be posting my results whether I'm successful or not. And when I do, I'll be very detailed in telling the whole story.
 
Im from south africa but it will probably be the same there. a plug circuit is usually on a 20amp breaker and max 4 plugs per breaker.. ive seen lots of house with old breakers also. they cant carry the amps stated on the breaker anymore. no harm in changing the breaker
 
I had a similar problem with an autoigniting natural gas burner for homebrew in my basement. Higher amp breaker solved the problem.

Seriously not recommended unless you also upgrade the wiring to handle the higher rating of the breaker. The breakers are there for a reason.
 
There's a ton of variables when it comes to Led. Like schedule, intensity, UV, spectrum, coverage, manufacturer, acclimation, optics, duration, generation etc. Not to mention husbandry. So when people post about led's I'm just curious to get the whole picture. I love my halides, but I'm trying out some gen 3 radions supplemented with T5's in order to reduce heat. I'll be posting my results whether I'm successful or not. And when I do, I'll be very detailed in telling the whole story.

Best of luck to you.
I understand why you asked originally and your response above, but if you go back and read a bunch of this thread it's all been discussed in detail from many of us that have gone down the same road already. Being that you are supplementing with T5 you will get much different results than those who went to just led, which is what this thread was originally about. Many of us have gone to a combo setup with great results.
 
Unfortunately, it looks like I'm going to be stuck ditching MH. I set up my new tank (with a 48" Cebu Sun 2x250W/4x54w fixture) in a new apartment about two months ago, and I've been unable to run both MH bulbs at once without getting random breaker trips. I've tried new bulbs, and tried running a spare ballast I had laying around. No dice. When both MH bulbs are on, there's a ~50% chance the breaker will trip on any given day. I can run either bulb alone with zero issues.

The circuit is rated for 15 amps, but it seems like any time I get close to 10A total, there's a good chance the breaker will trip. Oddly enough, it only happens once the lights have been running for at least 20 minutes. I'd expect it to happen when they kick on.

I'll be going back to my old 8x54W ATI + 2x BML setup. It's too bad, because I found my corals looked much better under Radiums, but if I had the breaker trip while I was away, I could lose the whole tank.

I would look into replacing the breaker. I've had to replace 2 or 3 in my current house, even though the box is only about 4 years old. I wish the previous owners hadn't cheaped out when they upgraded from a fuse box.
 
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