Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

I guess the challenge comes in when you try to find the necessary parts to switch back.

So, the 160W 16K R420rs with A350Ws supplementing don't seem to be cutting it. Certainly nothing like the old 250W halides used to, at least. Yeh, there's some "glitter lines", but the "look" and "feel" is a bit acerbic, sterile even, as opposed to what the 14K halides used to produce. Heck, with Actinic VHO supplements, the colors would jump out under halides.

Some of the corals do well with the LEDs. Heck, I'm growing milles and other acros at 27"...but the clams (even a small T. squamosa) aren't putting on new shell worth a Grand Hoover. Some SPS corals are alive and colored up, but haven't grown significantly or noticeably in over four months, while others have grown multiples of inches (and need to be fragged soon). And then there's the hazards of "spotlighting" or hotspots from LED arrays, and yes, some of the corals have bleached (but are recovering, still, after nearly 10 months).

So, I start looking around for metal halide equipment. Hmm. "Discontinued" seems to pop up quite frequently, and nothing I find seems to be able to fit into a 36 X 72 canopy (yes, it's a 300DD aquarium) without having to break out a jig saw and/or hang from the ceiling. A simple, 250W HQI setup I can mount in a well-ventilated canopy is all I ask. I'm certainly not afraid of building one, but come on, do I have to revisit '87 when I put together (literally riveted the sheet metal and assembled my own magnetic ballasts) my first halide setup?

So, how about this. LED manufacturers, please give me what I had with my 250W metal halide at least - now that I've dropped this much change on the table - the "punch" to reach the bottom of a 30" water column with enough of the spread and correct PUR to encourage light-hungry invertebrate growth such as clams and high-light acropora, stylophora, and the like. I don't want an exorbitantly priced spotlight covering an area 3" in diameter; to try and cover about 2,500 square inches of bottom would be insanely expensive...if it reaches that far. Nor do I want satisfactory PUR (for T. maxima and crocea) only in the upper 8"-12" of water in said 30" column.

How can you demonstrate you've accomplished this goal? Easy - prove it with side-by-side comparisons of spectrum charts, PAR graphs and PUR graphs across an array of the most popular metal halides in the hobby. Show us how deep your systems can truly push usable PAR in the form of PUR, what the spread is like, and how they compare directly with all of the major brands of metal halide and how they compare with nature at various depths. All the info in one place, at one time, to make decision making very easy that yours is the best product.

What really bothers me is I'm posting this after building a system with 3 160W R420rs, 4 A350Ws and 1 A360WE, and I'm still not satisfied I'm getting the best results nor providing the best environment possible for the reef I'm keeping.

After this rant (and profuse apologies), any good sources for said halide parts and accessories these days? Any good ideas for a reflector for a canopy installation? It appears most if not all of the normal suspects have very little or none to offer, and I'm a little frustrated.
 
Aside from the usual suspects like Hamilton, Giesemann etc. you can find a variety of parts at online aquarium shops but as good or better is visiting hydroponic or horticulture shops for ballasts, reflectors etc. You'll probably find better prices and a better selection. Where growth really matters for medicinal herbs the hydro/horticulture crowd has not swallowed LED hook, line and sinker the way the aquarium industry did :hmm5: There's still plenty of "aquarium" MH bulbs around and you will likely need to get them from an aquarium related shop.
 
Thinking of dumping my LED's as well. I started with (3) 150 14K and PC Blubs for 2 years. Tank looked great had SPS's thriving.... Went to LED (Cheap Chinese crap as well) and all has gone down hill from me (on the tank for about a year). So I'm thinking of either T5 or MH again.

Hamilton Cebu Sun Metal Halide + T5 HO Lighting System 14K
AquaticLife T5 HO 6-Lamp Light Fixture w/ Lunar LEDs
OR (3) AquaIllumination Hydra LED Fixtures

Tank is a 180Gallon 72"......

Someone told me when I started to not go cheap....I did when I thought I "upgraded" my lights...now I'm paying the price....

Not sure how to proceed. I've lost most of my SPS corals. Now thinking about only going soft and LPS......

Any input?
 
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HTGSupply carries some large open air aluminum reflectors, hammertone 95% reflective.

I don't have any idea as to the quality though.

desc. of the 22x22

QuadRay Reflector

Measures: 22" x 22" x 9½"

The QuadRay Horizontal Reflector has been designed to maximize light reflection and dispersal. The Multi-Faceted reflector design ensures an even distribution of light over the entire growing area. Its lightweight construction features nine highly reflective (95%+) textured aluminum panels for unsurpassed reflectivity and light dispersal. Its square design is excellent for any similarly shaped garden and is perfect for use over top of ebb and flow tables. An adjustable socket bracket allows for precise adjustment allowing for either a wider or tighter light beam spread over the entire garden.

Reflector covered by a 60 day manufacturers defect warranty.

Socket not included
 
Thinking of dumping my LED's as well. I started with (3) 150 14K and PC Blubs for 2 years. Tank looked great had SPS's thriving.... Went to LED (Cheap Chinese crap as well) and all has gone down hill from me (on the tank for about a year). So I'm thinking of either T5 or MH again.

Hamilton Cebu Sun Metal Halide + T5 HO Lighting System 14K
AquaticLife T5 HO 6-Lamp Light Fixture w/ Lunar LEDs
OR (3) AquaIllumination Hydra LED Fixtures

Tank is a 180Gallon 72"......

Someone told me when I started to not go cheap....I did when I thought I "upgraded" my lights...now I'm paying the price....

Not sure how to proceed. I've lost most of my SPS corals. Now thinking about only going soft and LPS......

Any input?

I put a Cebu Sun over my 120 recently, and I love it. Very happy with my purchase.
 
I put a Cebu Sun over my 120 recently, and I love it. Very happy with my purchase.

Love my Cebu sun. Switched it over to radiums on Hamilton m80 ballasts, ati true actinics with a reef breeders XHO strip. Looks silly amazing!

ece06d54dc16d5115f6fe6c5ef453620_zps8f3daed4.jpg
 
Went to the LFS and they LOVE Kessils. Might be an option..... (4) 360W's then down the line get a controller as I dont think the Aqua JR will cut it!

Tweaked....your coloration makes me still think MH is the answer...... Thanks for the post
 
I have been thinking of switching to LEDs, but this thread has me more confused than ever. LOL!

Welcome to RC!!


Just depends on what you like. Both choices will be fine, but as I am the avowed lover of all things metal halide let me act as a MH salesman for a moment . . . here are pics of corals grown under Radium metal halide bulbs :D

IMG_1437_zps3b03ccb5.jpg


IMG_1075_zps84a142dd.jpg


TyreePurpleMonster.jpg


BestTortB.jpg


Seriatopora.jpg
 
Welcome to RC!!


Just depends on what you like. Both choices will be fine, but as I am the avowed lover of all things metal halide let me act as a MH salesman for a moment . . . here are pics of corals grown under Radium metal halide bulbs :D

IMG_1437_zps3b03ccb5.jpg


IMG_1075_zps84a142dd.jpg


TyreePurpleMonster.jpg


BestTortB.jpg


Seriatopora.jpg

Joe, Have you taken par readings now that you are back with MH's? We have a few things in common...both used to own Pac Sun fixtures and both now own MH's with radium bulbs. I have my bulb about 15" awl and i am getting 150-170 on the bottom of my tank so a total of about 38" from the bulb. Im also using a fairly wide reflector with the Hamilton Cozumel pendant.

One other thing we have in common.....Köszönöm.
 
I have been thinking of switching to LEDs, but this thread has me more confused than ever. LOL!

Dont get pulled into the cost savings because of the power consumption and no need for a chiller. When I had my Pacific Sun fixture I still needed to have secondary cooling and it still consumed the same amount of power that I needed to run my 8 bulb t5 fixture that I eventually switched to.

I struggled with my led fixture for a year and finally threw in the towel after spending nearly $5k on a fixture. When I was planning my new tank (96x36x24) I figured that the cost difference to go with leds from ecotech, ai or ati would take me almost 5.5 years to break even when I factor in how much it cost me to set up my mh/t5 fixture, bulb replacements and energy. I see about .5 degree temperature change in my tank when all of the lights are on so the chiller argument is out. Of course, if you are going to put a 400w mh on a 40g tank you will more than likely have a heat issues. In the end I just wanted something that would turn on and off when it was supposed and knew that I could grow corals with it.
 
Dont get pulled into the cost savings because of the power consumption and no need for a chiller. When I had my Pacific Sun fixture I still needed to have secondary cooling and it still consumed the same amount of power that I needed to run my 8 bulb t5 fixture that I eventually switched to.

I struggled with my led fixture for a year and finally threw in the towel after spending nearly $5k on a fixture. When I was planning my new tank (96x36x24) I figured that the cost difference to go with leds from ecotech, ai or ati would take me almost 5.5 years to break even when I factor in how much it cost me to set up my mh/t5 fixture, bulb replacements and energy. I see about .5 degree temperature change in my tank when all of the lights are on so the chiller argument is out. Of course, if you are going to put a 400w mh on a 40g tank you will more than likely have a heat issues. In the end I just wanted something that would turn on and off when it was supposed and knew that I could grow corals with it.

I really like this post. Been struggling with LED for a year now and my tank has gone in the dumper. NEVER had these kinds of issues with MH . Thing of pulling the trigger on

Hamilton Cebu Sun Lighting System - 72 Inch 3 x 250 Watt 14,000K Metal Halide and 4 x 80 Watt T5 HO Actinics

BUT cannot decide to go 175 or 250.
 
I really like this post. Been struggling with LED for a year now and my tank has gone in the dumper. NEVER had these kinds of issues with MH . Thing of pulling the trigger on

Hamilton Cebu Sun Lighting System - 72 Inch 3 x 250 Watt 14,000K Metal Halide and 4 x 80 Watt T5 HO Actinics

BUT cannot decide to go 175 or 250.

what are the dimensions of your tank and what kind of corals are you keeping?
 
what are the dimensions of your tank and what kind of corals are you keeping?

72 x 24 x 24 - standard 180.

I was keeping a couple of SPS but most have died off. Lost my Hammer and torch.....

SO I'm sticking with LPS and soft corals for now on. I have lots of zoas, mushrooms, couple big frogspawns, green star polyps :( , a clam. Want to get back in with some Lobos, Torch, hammers, again think I'm going to say away from SPS.

With a business to run and three kids, I need a little more easy going set up :)
 
Dont get pulled into the cost savings because of the power consumption and no need for a chiller. When I had my Pacific Sun fixture I still needed to have secondary cooling and it still consumed the same amount of power that I needed to run my 8 bulb t5 fixture that I eventually switched to.

I struggled with my led fixture for a year and finally threw in the towel after spending nearly $5k on a fixture. When I was planning my new tank (96x36x24) I figured that the cost difference to go with leds from ecotech, ai or ati would take me almost 5.5 years to break even when I factor in how much it cost me to set up my mh/t5 fixture, bulb replacements and energy. I see about .5 degree temperature change in my tank when all of the lights are on so the chiller argument is out. Of course, if you are going to put a 400w mh on a 40g tank you will more than likely have a heat issues. In the end I just wanted something that would turn on and off when it was supposed and knew that I could grow corals with it.

Agreed. I've seen substantial electrical savings since installing my Cebu sun. Granted, the lights themselves consume a bit more electricity, but the heat they generate dramatically cuts down on my heater uptime. My heaters draw far, far more electricity than what the Cebu sun does over my previous setup, so it nets out to an electrical savings.

I think the need to run a chiller usually comes more from pumps and/or poor air circulation over the tank/sump reducing evaporation.
 
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