Anyone use limewater (kalk) via ATO?

I wanted direct control from my pc and the RK only allowed you to view the various aspects of the system and not change them. The aqua controller allows direct control of the controller from your pc, which fit in with my penchant for controlling everything I can from my computer. Other than that, the RK may have been a better deal in terms of a basic setup. Check out the Neptune forum and you’ll get an idea of what the AC can do.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13214020#post13214020 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
Just tested the parameters again:

pH: 8.0
Ca: 440
dKH: 10.6
Parameters still holding stable. The Ca & Alk may have dipped a little, but it's too hard to tell. I'll have to wait a few more days to be able to confirm how they are reacting.

pH has remained constant though. :D
 
My house has so much damn CO2 or something. I dose a little Kalk it goes from 7.7 to 7.9... and 1 hour later when the ATO goes on again it's back down to 7.7 heading to 7.9 again. I'm hoping over time the Kalk will raise me higher and stabilize it. I got an idea with some help from a staffer (sjm817) on how to use 1 float switch instead of 2 to add less Kalk per time period. I don't think it's good to keep swinging up and down 0.2 pH. And now my 2nd sensor acts as a fail-safe too.

Tswifty... sjm817 and myself are trying to clarify something in the other thread now. Not only are your 2 sensors fart apart and you could be adding an unknown amount since you can't get them closer.

002.jpg


BUT... it looks like your top fail-safe sensor is at the top of your sump. So if your 1st one failed you wouldn't only be filling up a return area, but right over the baffles there you'd be filling up your entire sump AND MDT with Kalk.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13220297#post13220297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SCIFI_3D_zoo
My house has so much damn CO2 or something. I dose a little Kalk it goes from 7.7 to 7.9... and 1 hour later when the ATO goes on again it's back down to 7.7 heading to 7.9 again. I'm hoping over time the Kalk will raise me higher and stabilize it. I got an idea with some help from a staffer (sjm817) on how to use 1 float switch instead of 2 to add less Kalk per time period. I don't think it's good to keep swinging up and down 0.2 pH. And now my 2nd sensor acts as a fail-safe too.

Tswifty... sjm817 and myself are trying to clarify something in the other thread now. Not only are your 2 sensors fart apart and you could be adding an unknown amount since you can't get them closer.

002.jpg


BUT... it looks like your top fail-safe sensor is at the top of your sump. So if your 1st one failed you wouldn't only be filling up a return area, but right over the baffles there you'd be filling up your entire sump AND MDT with Kalk.
You worry too much.
 
Well... I know, what are the odds that your sensor will fail or get stuck. But people have said it's happened before to them. And isn't that the whole point of having the 2nd sensor.. to not overdose. AND if it did happen... I think Randy was saying.. it's not the end of the world. Your tank could be milk.. but wouldn't hurt anything.?? I'd be more worried about a huge pH spike. I think that could kill some corals/fish/inverts.

Am I wrong here? Misinterpreting it. I just thought I saw something there that you might want to consider. Even with just RO/DI water and no Kalk you could seriously dilute your salinity dumping that much water in there. I have NO idea how many gallons we're talking about here. I can't really tell from your pic. But ... just trying to help.. in any small minute ways I can. :smokin:
 
It can happen: it's no more serious than a topoff accident---in terms of the kalk; but if you empty gallons into the tank, which enters at ph 12, that's also a problem. Bar soda water can start knocking it back. It also naturally falls, so your problem is how to fix without overdoing in the other direction. You can have your whole tank go to milk and emerge with no fatalities, but you do need to take it seriously for both salinity AND ph. My favorite stunt is not securing the topoff hose INTO the sump (32g of kalk on the basement floor) or making an accidental float switch adjustment---I use a very simple, manual switch, so if you're a klutz while rotating the cheato ball, you can screw up. I have now got a mental checklist when I've been messing around with the sump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13220649#post13220649 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SCIFI_3D_zoo
Well... I know, what are the odds that your sensor will fail or get stuck. But people have said it's happened before to them. And isn't that the whole point of having the 2nd sensor.. to not overdose. AND if it did happen... I think Randy was saying.. it's not the end of the world. Your tank could be milk.. but wouldn't hurt anything.?? I'd be more worried about a huge pH spike. I think that could kill some corals/fish/inverts.

Am I wrong here? Misinterpreting it. I just thought I saw something there that you might want to consider. Even with just RO/DI water and no Kalk you could seriously dilute your salinity dumping that much water in there. I have NO idea how many gallons we're talking about here. I can't really tell from your pic. But ... just trying to help.. in any small minute ways I can. :smokin:
The unit was set up with just an ATO in mind. Therefore all the second switch does is just add another failsafe to prevent my floor from getting wet.

Yeah it's something to consider, but honestly it's only like 2 gallons (if that) for the water to hit that point. Plus the unit has a timer on it, that should shut off the water loooong before it would get to that point. At 3 GPH the pump would have to run for almost 45 minutes to hit that level, and the max setting on the controller is 9 minutes.

Like I said it's something I may do in the future if I decide kalk is the way I want to go with my tank. But right now, moving the switch isn't at the top of my list.
 
Sound like you got it all figured out. I was just worried after looking at that pic. of the sensor at the top of your sump.

""Hello,
It is not possible touse both sensors in Mode A as a fail safe. The ATO does have a duration time period as a fail safe.
Please see this link http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_ato_faqs.html
JBJ SUPPORT """

Boy... they didn't just say it's not meant for that, don't know how, etc. They said "it's not possible". They don't know their own product.. at least that person doesn't.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13205936#post13205936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
ok I just mixed up 3 gallons of limewater @ 1tsp per gallon to test out. I'm going to give it some time to settle, test my current levels, then hook it up.

As of last night my params were:

SG: 1.026

pH: 8.0
Ca: 440
dKH: 10.6
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13214020#post13214020 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
Just tested the parameters again:

pH: 8.0
Ca: 440
dKH: 10.6
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13219611#post13219611 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
Parameters still holding stable. The Ca & Alk may have dipped a little, but it's too hard to tell. I'll have to wait a few more days to be able to confirm how they are reacting.

pH has remained constant though. :D
Day 4 Parameters:

pH: 8.0
Ca: 440
dKH: 10.6

:D
 
:lol: if it was only that easy...

Here's what my tank looks like today... It looks like the kalk is doing a good job of holding the pH with the lights out.

lightsout1.jpg
 
Oh and since you have the AC3, I had a quick question...

What is the difference between the AC3 & AC3Pro... besides $200? :lol:
 
The main difference that I liked was the cunductivity probe. I like to track as many aspects of my tank as possible and it would be nice to have the constant SG like I have the PH.
 
Specific Gravity is what he meant by SG. They all add up to the same thing. SG/salinity/conductivity all ways to measure the salt content of your water.

This may help:
LINK
 
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