Shadowramy
In Memoriam
Had this unit for 6 months now, yesterday the PC went out. I planned on purchaing new lights anyways and selling these off.
Anyone using these lights?
- Thread starter Itsmebro
- Start date
Just got the same unit 48 inch MH setup 542W.
No problems so far seems fine, not alot of heat and the lights really bright. Hell i even used the hanging kit that came with it.
After reading all the posts, I did open everything up and check for loose parts, and loose wires. Did find 1 nut rolling around the ballast box,some loose screws,and a piece of wire around 1" long with one end stripped in the light housing. So if you do buy these give them the once over. Once I was done I powered them up, and so far so good.
Can someone post want different lamps they have tried with success?
No problems so far seems fine, not alot of heat and the lights really bright. Hell i even used the hanging kit that came with it.
After reading all the posts, I did open everything up and check for loose parts, and loose wires. Did find 1 nut rolling around the ballast box,some loose screws,and a piece of wire around 1" long with one end stripped in the light housing. So if you do buy these give them the once over. Once I was done I powered them up, and so far so good.
Can someone post want different lamps they have tried with success?
leeweber85
New member
I put in a 10k 150w once and they were extremely bright compared to the stock 20ks. It might just be the color temp/better brand. But the 150s are suppose to be perfectly safe to use according to the people at aquatraders.
I've had mine since July I believe.... the only thing that has broke were the fans in the fixture, this could be because I never cleaned them like you're suppose to. It was an easy fix, but If I could redo it I would just purchase a used setup or the aqualight pro by coralife.
BTW I actually like the color of the odyssea actinic 96w pcs
I've had mine since July I believe.... the only thing that has broke were the fans in the fixture, this could be because I never cleaned them like you're suppose to. It was an easy fix, but If I could redo it I would just purchase a used setup or the aqualight pro by coralife.
BTW I actually like the color of the odyssea actinic 96w pcs
Shadowramy
In Memoriam
I would like to just strongly warn about these lights. Although some people may have success with them, many have not. Mine just blew up after about 6 months of usage. Firs the PC went about about 2 months ago them the rest.
I have two small children and when this thing caught fire it was not pretty.
I would strongly suggest that you always have someone home if using these lights, they could have burned down my house and I am not the only person to experience this:
Invest in something better, even if you have to wait awhile to save the money.
It is not worth risking someone's life over $100-$200. IMO AquaTraders should be put out of buisness for not recalling these, there is clearly a problem here.
I have two small children and when this thing caught fire it was not pretty.
I would strongly suggest that you always have someone home if using these lights, they could have burned down my house and I am not the only person to experience this:
Invest in something better, even if you have to wait awhile to save the money.
It is not worth risking someone's life over $100-$200. IMO AquaTraders should be put out of buisness for not recalling these, there is clearly a problem here.
tkeracer619
New member
i thought about these lights untill i looked at what i would be spending and not getting the bulbs i wanted. Then I looked around and on ebay found a setup that has 3 250wmetal halide 10k bulbs and 2 180w VHO actinics. I paid around 600 for 3 mh bulbs, electronic ballasts, reflectors, and a 440w vho ballast. The ballasts are in nice heat sinked aluminum cases. Timers are in the light bulb section at food lion.
Beeing a manufacturing engineer I started to look at how cost would be reduced. Keep in mind that my stuff is a DIY setup so that made it even cheaper.
Sure biulding stuff in china is ok. Buying stuff made in china is ok. Eating chineese food is yummy. But burning your house down because there is toooo much going on in a box is not ok.
O yeah. If you burn down your house b/c you use something, that is what insurance is for. Great working smoke detectors and a proper evacuation plan are what you need to worry about so your family is safe.
Remember only you can prevent forest fires. Buy stuff that is UL listed.
O yeah and to those who wanted to know what was inside these things look BWilfongs post. It tells the story.
Beeing a manufacturing engineer I started to look at how cost would be reduced. Keep in mind that my stuff is a DIY setup so that made it even cheaper.
Sure biulding stuff in china is ok. Buying stuff made in china is ok. Eating chineese food is yummy. But burning your house down because there is toooo much going on in a box is not ok.
O yeah. If you burn down your house b/c you use something, that is what insurance is for. Great working smoke detectors and a proper evacuation plan are what you need to worry about so your family is safe.
Remember only you can prevent forest fires. Buy stuff that is UL listed.
O yeah and to those who wanted to know what was inside these things look BWilfongs post. It tells the story.
tkeracer619
New member
o yeah bwilfong.... were was this ballast kept. what is all that white colored stuff inside the case??
Was this inside your stand with a sump? Why does that look like salt water residue on the inside of the case?
Also do you have links to the other places you have seen this problem. Electronics run on smoke, once you let the smoke out.... they dont work anymore. I like to know what lets the smoke out.
Was this inside your stand with a sump? Why does that look like salt water residue on the inside of the case?
Also do you have links to the other places you have seen this problem. Electronics run on smoke, once you let the smoke out.... they dont work anymore. I like to know what lets the smoke out.
Ebisan
New member
I was using the 24" MH 175W fixture for about 8 months with no problems. I switched out the stock 20K bulb for a Phoenix 14K 150W. The color was pretty blue, more blue than the 20K. At the time, I read the bulb was being under driven and would explain why it looked dim when compared to my PC in my 10g. When I got the 50g tank, I did not want to use the Odyssea and got a retrokit. (175W SE, ARO eballast, XM 10K bulb + 2x110W VHO actinics). This set up works great and the tank looks great. For the money I spent on the Odyssea I should have just went straight for a retrokit (cheaper actually but you need a canopy). You get the peace of mind of quality products.
I've read one too many post about trouble with these lights.
Do yourself a favor, and avoid.
If you want to save money, and you want bright (SPS) light, get an industrial-style T5.
http://specialty-lights.com/960203.html
Check out all the T5 threads about the proper mix of bulbs. You'll achieve equivalent/better PAR and mix of color, use less electricity, spend less on replacement lamps, and have incredible peace of mind.
No one should put their family/house/tank at risk with these cheap fire hazards.
Do yourself a favor, and avoid.
If you want to save money, and you want bright (SPS) light, get an industrial-style T5.
http://specialty-lights.com/960203.html
Check out all the T5 threads about the proper mix of bulbs. You'll achieve equivalent/better PAR and mix of color, use less electricity, spend less on replacement lamps, and have incredible peace of mind.
No one should put their family/house/tank at risk with these cheap fire hazards.
Shadowramy
In Memoriam
The unit was placed about 2 feet away from the tank, so no water got even close to the box.
The white/Grey stuff is what I am guessing to be residue from the capacitor exploding. It is a very thick residue. It was not in there before the exploding capacitor because when I fist got the unit I openned up the ballast box to see if the ballast where 150 or 175. There where a couple loose nut that I did remove.
There are a couple other placed right here on these boards, just do a search for fire, burn, AquaTraders.
The unit was plugged into a AquaController which was plugged into a GCFI unit.
If you look at the picture you see the box to the lower left of the tank:
The white/Grey stuff is what I am guessing to be residue from the capacitor exploding. It is a very thick residue. It was not in there before the exploding capacitor because when I fist got the unit I openned up the ballast box to see if the ballast where 150 or 175. There where a couple loose nut that I did remove.
There are a couple other placed right here on these boards, just do a search for fire, burn, AquaTraders.
The unit was plugged into a AquaController which was plugged into a GCFI unit.
If you look at the picture you see the box to the lower left of the tank:
Last edited:
Shadowramy
In Memoriam
JmLee
New member
oddysea products are dangerous, couple of people with oddysea halides caught fire and ive heard of people burning the rooms down, i my self have a oddysea moon light kit and the wires at the power supply are coming out and the insulation is worn, very dangerous. Its all china cheap labor made..., i saved the money and bought Aquamedic HQI's, far superior.
Warboc
New member
Thread 1, comment from the thread starter. Obviously not a good placement from the start. The bottom needs to be on a flat smooth surface:
Thread 2, the thread starter in this case accepted a package that was obviously mishandled by the shipper. Likely damaged goods from the start of usage:
Thread 3, yes that indeed is a poor product and should never happen.
Just playing devil's advocate. My MH fixture worked fine for a year. I have since upgraded my lighting for more wattage tho.
Shadowramy
In Memoriam
Notice on the pictures of the ballast - there is no UL listed sticker.
luvmyclown
New member
I finally made it through the whole thread. I too have a fixture from this company. It is the 36" with a 175 watt HQI and two 65 watt PC's. Everything seems to be working thus far.
Given all of the information about ballast and bulb setup for these lights, has anyone tried to put in a new socket to run a 175 watt SE bulb? If the ballast will run a 175 SE why not just change the set up a little to run this bulb? I am no electrical expert, and didn't know if this was possible. Is it as easy as wiring in a new socket for a different bulb?
Does anyone here have updates on how their lighting has been running? Anyone been running them longer than a year?
Given all of the information about ballast and bulb setup for these lights, has anyone tried to put in a new socket to run a 175 watt SE bulb? If the ballast will run a 175 SE why not just change the set up a little to run this bulb? I am no electrical expert, and didn't know if this was possible. Is it as easy as wiring in a new socket for a different bulb?
Does anyone here have updates on how their lighting has been running? Anyone been running them longer than a year?
