Aquabacs' Cadlights Artisan 50 Azooxanthellae Tank build

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MKPydEDm-9I&hl=en_US&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MKPydEDm-9I&hl=en_US&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
 
Mike, some questions on the fridge setup:

1) How much flow do you have going through the fridge?
2) Is that 1/2" pipe you are using?
3) Did you use john guest quick connect or jaco fitting to go from the T to the 1/4" tubing? Do you know which one is better for higher pressure applications?
4) Do you notice the fridge coming on more often than normal with the holes you drilled not being sealed back up?
 
All three tanks will have the same feeding demands :idea:

Gresham remind me to by stock in Reef Nutrition :lol:

It's a little scary but considering that 2 of the tanks are nanos the net water volume should be around 100g. That's still a lot of food to go through but I'm hoping once the system gets established costs will decrease. I hope that the system will be able to produce a large amount of live food and the amount of water changes necessary will be less.

Very nice job so far with the dendro frag BTW.
 
I hope you don't mind I used your fridge pic to ask a question in the DIY forum. I'm basically wondering if there is anything I can use to plug up the holes after I drill them to minimize the amount of cold air that escapes. I could use epoxy but that would harden and be difficult to remove if needed. I want something that stays soft like play doh. I have some plumbers putty maybe that would work.
 
Mike the pump that feeds it is between 5OO-600 gph (I can't remeber off the top of my head the exact number). All the piping in the refrigerated system is 1/2" including through the refrigerator. Fitting in the system are all JG. The tee's are 1/2 slp x 1/2 slip x 1/4 threaded. Into the 1/4" threaded is a 1/4" JG threaded adapter (you can find them online or at some Home Depot type stores). I had it originally by a Tee into my return line. When I clean my sump I had a bad habit of bumping it and loosening up my bulkhead (this was more ideal but I had to compensate for accessibility/clumsiness). It is now plumbed so that the system loops to the last chamber in my sump and the food enters the tank via the main return pump. I honestly don't like doing it this way because before the food did not come in contact with the return pump, now it does. Not saying in the future I might change up the plumbing and add a actuated valve like Steve did. To minimize the space around the holes you can look at picking up gromets and to reduce the space between the pipe and the refigerator. If you want to go Elos theme, they also sell them but they tend to be at 70-80 each for the anodized blue ones. For picture use I don't mind as long as I am paid my royalty fees ;)
 
I hope you don't mind I used your fridge pic to ask a question in the DIY forum. I'm basically wondering if there is anything I can use to plug up the holes after I drill them to minimize the amount of cold air that escapes. I could use epoxy but that would harden and be difficult to remove if needed. I want something that stays soft like play doh. I have some plumbers putty maybe that would work.

Plumbers putty seems like a good option, or maybe modeling clay :)

Doesn't Playdoh get crusty and hard after a while :lol: It tastes horrid as well, the mint glue paste was much better IIRC
 
Mike the pump that feeds it is between 5OO-600 gph (I can't remeber off the top of my head the exact number). All the piping in the refrigerated system is 1/2" including through the refrigerator. Fitting in the system are all JG. The tee's are 1/2 slp x 1/2 slip x 1/4 threaded. Into the 1/4" threaded is a 1/4" JG threaded adapter (you can find them online or at some Home Depot type stores). I had it originally by a Tee into my return line. When I clean my sump I had a bad habit of bumping it and loosening up my bulkhead (this was more ideal but I had to compensate for accessibility/clumsiness). It is now plumbed so that the system loops to the last chamber in my sump and the food enters the tank via the main return pump. I honestly don't like doing it this way because before the food did not come in contact with the return pump, now it does. Not saying in the future I might change up the plumbing and add a actuated valve like Steve did. To minimize the space around the holes you can look at picking up gromets and to reduce the space between the pipe and the refigerator. If you want to go Elos theme, they also sell them but they tend to be at 70-80 each for the anodized blue ones. For picture use I don't mind as long as I am paid my royalty fees ;)

I thought about connecting it to the return plumbing - but then I was worried about excessive back pressure. The return pump is an ATB flowstar pushing 1500gph easily, while the pump feeding through the fridge is an eheim 1262, but the eheim would also be feeding the ozone reactor and the chiller.

The other option was to run the return plumbing from the ATB flowstar through the fridge first, before having it split off to feed the 3 tanks. But again, that's 1500 gph going through the fridge can the john guest fittings and peristaltic pumps handle that kind of pressure?

The easiest way would be like how you have it now but obviously its also the least efficient and increases the chance of the return pump getting clogged up prematurely.
 
On my set up, the way it is plumbed, is that the return pump goes through the chiller before water goes back into the tank. That seemed the most efficient way to run it.

Now, I honestly don't know how much pressure the JG fittings will hold till or the peristaltic pump but the way it is set up I dont think it should be an issue.

For the return pump, it is serviced monthly, and I will keep my eye out for any issues with it. What I also did is picked up an additional return pump and pump for the refrigerated feeder, set it up with unions in place, so if a issue arrises/failure, the exchange can be done quickly. For return pumps this is something I have always done, nothing is worst than having a return pump fail and having to search for one at the last minute.

Mike
 
Well JG fittings hold 60+ PSI, that I know, otherwise my RODI would be spitting water from every connection :)

Can you push 1500gph through 1/2" pipe though? I seem to think not, but it's been a while since I've had to remember plumbing numbers :lol:
 
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dvG4Jg5BjhA&hl=en_US&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dvG4Jg5BjhA&hl=en_US&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

Mike
 
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fegBJRgr4Ws&hl=en_US&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fegBJRgr4Ws&hl=en_US&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

Mike
 
Ok I think I've figured out what might work, and the flow capability of 1/2" pipe should work in this design's favor as most of the flow should go through 3/4" pipe:

return_plumbing01.gif


I need some feedback on whether or not this should work before I start on it though.
 
Mike what do you think about using a 3/4 " pvc wye instead of a tee at the two points where the 1/2 meets the 3/4? The flow might go better through the refrigerator that way. The wye facing up on the point closest to the return pump and for the top point use the wye upside down. Does that make sense?

Mike
 
Just got back from Savko got all the plumbing I should need including the wye fittings. They also had uniseals so I'm gonna try those for the fridge, and probably some silicone around the power cords that I have to run through the fridge as well. Those guys at savko are starting to get to know me real well.
 
Back
Top