cherubfish pair
New member
Can you see into the black box on the EV skimmers?
AquaC CLUB!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
GeorgeMonnatJr
New member
Sort of, with a flashlight.
GeorgeMonnatJr
New member
Do you have a hose on the outlet port? It's the black, right-angle barb for a 5/8" ID hose off the collection cup. My EV-180 wasn't working as well, then I found this in the manual (highlights are mine):
[URL=http://www.proteinskimmer.com/User%27s Manuals/EV-180.pdf]AquaC EV-180 User's Manual said:
My drain hose was submerged in my collection bucket causing back pressure and keeping the skimmer from working properly. Once I cut the hose shorter, it started working again.
Once you fix it, please let us know what you found.
cherubfish pair
New member
Although I've never owned an EV skimmer, on all my skimmers I make a point to clean build-up in the reaction chamber and most importantly in the collection cup neck. It makes a heck of a difference and I try to do it every other day.
GeorgeMonnatJr
New member
I apologize for the long-winded post, but it's how I process and share things. I hope it helps at least one person in the future. If you don't want to or can't read through it, just go to the results for the last case 
I got an EV-180 with a Mag 9.5 a couple of weeks ago. I installed it in my sump with a ball valve on the outlet of the pump, and after three days it was working awesomely (see my post above).
A couple of days after I posted that picture, I realized that I was a complete idiot - I had installed a brass ball valve, and my tank is mostly ornamental shrimp that could be killed by the copper leeching from the brass. So about a week ago I did four things:
1) replaced the "collector bucket" with a disposable, recycled gallon jug
2) cleaned out the collection cup real well (1st time)
3) replaced the brass ball valve with a PVC ball valve
4) installed a PVC 90deg elbow on the skimmer outlet gate valve (to direct the output water flow down instead of over my sump wall to reduce all of the micro-bubbles that were getting back into my DT).
For the last week the skimmer has not been working good at all. The PVC ball valve is much harder to tweak than the PVC, but it looked like it was at the same level in the column (water level at top of dark box or bottom of clear column).
Actions for 1) As I mentioned a couple of posts up, I discovered from the EV-180 user manual that back pressure caused by the collection hose being submerged was a bad thing. So three days ago I cut the hose into the bucket to make sure the end wasn't submerged and the hose was all downhill (no back pressure at all).
Results for 1) It made more bubbles but not enough to consistently get them up into the collection cup, so that didn't fix it.
Actions for 2) I could think of two possible issues from this:
2a) chemical - I thought maybe the tap water or my body oil or something else introduced into the collection cup when I cleaned it was inhibiting bubble formation and skimmer operation. I opened the pump ball valve and washed some really wet skimmate through to try and flush it, but other than that there was nothing I could think of doing but wait and see.
2b) mechanical - I thought maybe I had gunked up or nicked the gaskets for the collection cup (either end) and maybe air was escaping thus preventing the skimmer from forcing the bubbles up and into the collection hose. I tried re-tightening, holding it down, feeling for leaks, etc. but didn't find any. I didn't want to spray soap or anything on to check for leaks since it went right into my sump. I figured I could do plastic wrap as a final solution.
Results for 2)
2a) chemical - After running for a week it was about the same -> not working well.
2b) mechanical - Nothing I did improved it -> not working well.
Actions for 3) As I mentioned, the new PVC ball valve was much more difficult to tweak. Whereas the brass ball valve turned smoothly and evenly, the PVC valve took significant torque to break it to turn. I spent too much time trying to get it perfect. Basically I could get it level with the top of dark box/bottom of clear column like before or with 1/2" increments of "50/50 aerated water" up into the column. I tried different settings, including about 2.5" of "50/50 aerated water" up into the column.
Results for 3) Nothing really worked. When I went full bore with 2.5" of "50/50 aerated water" up into the column, it worked, but the skimmate was extremely wet pumping about 1/2 gallon of water into my collection bucket in 30 minutes. I didn't like that, so I dialed it back down. Basically I couldn't fix it, or get it to operate correctly, by adjusting the pump's ball valve.
Actions for 4) Just a little while ago I ran home from work for lunch. I removed the 90deg PVC elbow from the skimmer water output gate valve. The water level was even with the top of dark box/bottom of clear column before removal and dropped to about a 1/2" below the top of dark box/bottom of clear column when I removed the elbow, so I opened the pump ball valve and got it back even (original setting/level when it was working good).
Results for 4) Shazzam! It started pumping out the bubbles and a great, dry skimmate like before (in the picture above). All I had to do to get it working great again was remove the elbow on the outlet gate valve.
That seemed a little counter-intuitive to me. I would expect the elbow to create back-pressure on the water out flow, thus making the water level in the column higher. But removing it made the water level in the column lower - and more importantly made it start working again. I guess I'll live with the micro-bubbles being pumped into my sump.
I got an EV-180 with a Mag 9.5 a couple of weeks ago. I installed it in my sump with a ball valve on the outlet of the pump, and after three days it was working awesomely (see my post above).
A couple of days after I posted that picture, I realized that I was a complete idiot - I had installed a brass ball valve, and my tank is mostly ornamental shrimp that could be killed by the copper leeching from the brass. So about a week ago I did four things:
1) replaced the "collector bucket" with a disposable, recycled gallon jug
2) cleaned out the collection cup real well (1st time)
3) replaced the brass ball valve with a PVC ball valve
4) installed a PVC 90deg elbow on the skimmer outlet gate valve (to direct the output water flow down instead of over my sump wall to reduce all of the micro-bubbles that were getting back into my DT).
For the last week the skimmer has not been working good at all. The PVC ball valve is much harder to tweak than the PVC, but it looked like it was at the same level in the column (water level at top of dark box or bottom of clear column).
Actions for 1) As I mentioned a couple of posts up, I discovered from the EV-180 user manual that back pressure caused by the collection hose being submerged was a bad thing. So three days ago I cut the hose into the bucket to make sure the end wasn't submerged and the hose was all downhill (no back pressure at all).
Results for 1) It made more bubbles but not enough to consistently get them up into the collection cup, so that didn't fix it.
Actions for 2) I could think of two possible issues from this:
2a) chemical - I thought maybe the tap water or my body oil or something else introduced into the collection cup when I cleaned it was inhibiting bubble formation and skimmer operation. I opened the pump ball valve and washed some really wet skimmate through to try and flush it, but other than that there was nothing I could think of doing but wait and see.
2b) mechanical - I thought maybe I had gunked up or nicked the gaskets for the collection cup (either end) and maybe air was escaping thus preventing the skimmer from forcing the bubbles up and into the collection hose. I tried re-tightening, holding it down, feeling for leaks, etc. but didn't find any. I didn't want to spray soap or anything on to check for leaks since it went right into my sump. I figured I could do plastic wrap as a final solution.
Results for 2)
2a) chemical - After running for a week it was about the same -> not working well.
2b) mechanical - Nothing I did improved it -> not working well.
Actions for 3) As I mentioned, the new PVC ball valve was much more difficult to tweak. Whereas the brass ball valve turned smoothly and evenly, the PVC valve took significant torque to break it to turn. I spent too much time trying to get it perfect. Basically I could get it level with the top of dark box/bottom of clear column like before or with 1/2" increments of "50/50 aerated water" up into the column. I tried different settings, including about 2.5" of "50/50 aerated water" up into the column.
Results for 3) Nothing really worked. When I went full bore with 2.5" of "50/50 aerated water" up into the column, it worked, but the skimmate was extremely wet pumping about 1/2 gallon of water into my collection bucket in 30 minutes. I didn't like that, so I dialed it back down. Basically I couldn't fix it, or get it to operate correctly, by adjusting the pump's ball valve.
Actions for 4) Just a little while ago I ran home from work for lunch. I removed the 90deg PVC elbow from the skimmer water output gate valve. The water level was even with the top of dark box/bottom of clear column before removal and dropped to about a 1/2" below the top of dark box/bottom of clear column when I removed the elbow, so I opened the pump ball valve and got it back even (original setting/level when it was working good).
Results for 4) Shazzam! It started pumping out the bubbles and a great, dry skimmate like before (in the picture above). All I had to do to get it working great again was remove the elbow on the outlet gate valve.
That seemed a little counter-intuitive to me. I would expect the elbow to create back-pressure on the water out flow, thus making the water level in the column higher. But removing it made the water level in the column lower - and more importantly made it start working again. I guess I'll live with the micro-bubbles being pumped into my sump.
bikeboss11
New member
@ jjcancel
I had that same problem and it turned out that my spraybar was the problem even though it arreared to be in perfect condition.... To diagnose to problem I took the spraybar off another skimmer that was working perfectly and I swapped it into my skimmer and the thing worked like a horse almost immediately... I then send a picture for Steve and he agreed that it had to be the spray bar and mailed one out to me.... Good luck
I had that same problem and it turned out that my spraybar was the problem even though it arreared to be in perfect condition.... To diagnose to problem I took the spraybar off another skimmer that was working perfectly and I swapped it into my skimmer and the thing worked like a horse almost immediately... I then send a picture for Steve and he agreed that it had to be the spray bar and mailed one out to me.... Good luck
Last edited:
cherubfish pair
New member
Can someone show some pictures of an EV plumbed external; outside of a sump? What are your thoughts on this?
I have a aqua c 180 with a mag9 pump that's been running great for about six months now. The collection cup has developed stress like fractures all over it and I've never dropped it. It doesn't effect it yet but I was wondering what could cause this. I do run my calcium reactor into to burn off co2 maybe that has something to do with it?
GeorgeMonnatJr
New member
I also have an AquaC 180 w/ Mag9 that I've been running for about 9 months. It shows the same hairline fractures on the collection cup, and I don't have a calcium reactor (I bolus dose limewater).
cherubfish pair
New member
Could it be air pressure from popping effluent bubbles?
Get a trition 5 deepblue.....runs under 100.00
Will only pull 40/50 watts and really works fantastic
with a aqua-c /or etss skimmer.
Only reason to run a mag for me is in the winter it
heats the water pretty good and i dont need a heater
but the trition is a beast.......way better then the mag.
Will only pull 40/50 watts and really works fantastic
with a aqua-c /or etss skimmer.
Only reason to run a mag for me is in the winter it
heats the water pretty good and i dont need a heater
but the trition is a beast.......way better then the mag.
I would like to retract anything negative I said about my AquaC EV-180. I made a new discovery that changed my prospective. The instructions included with the skimmer suggest that the “Initial water level should be a bit lower than the top of the box”.
Forget what the instructions say. The water level should be above the top of the box. I would say about half inch, so you can see the water just in the first chamber. This is done by using the output valve. The adjustment would have to be done slowly starting with the valve opened all the way. Then lower the air valve so that you get dry foam coming up the top to the collection cup. The air would have to be adjusted until the foam is thick. The next step is to mark the air valve, so that the next time the valve is closed to clean the cup the valve could be put back to the same spot.
Since I made those adjustments that I just suggested I get a thick dark green almost black skim. It works great. For those having difficulties with the AquaC EV-180 instead of changing out your pump try what I suggested first.
Forget what the instructions say. The water level should be above the top of the box. I would say about half inch, so you can see the water just in the first chamber. This is done by using the output valve. The adjustment would have to be done slowly starting with the valve opened all the way. Then lower the air valve so that you get dry foam coming up the top to the collection cup. The air would have to be adjusted until the foam is thick. The next step is to mark the air valve, so that the next time the valve is closed to clean the cup the valve could be put back to the same spot.
Since I made those adjustments that I just suggested I get a thick dark green almost black skim. It works great. For those having difficulties with the AquaC EV-180 instead of changing out your pump try what I suggested first.
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