AquaController Jr. users

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12703535#post12703535 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
very helpful- thanks.
The Neptune DC8 instructions specifically warn "do not use Icecap 430 or 660 ballasts on the relay controlled outlets due to their high inrush current". The instructions then give work arounds for older model DC8's but give no suggestions for the curent model DC8 :confused:

Interesting that you mention this since I just had an issue with my Icecap 660 on one of my DC8's.

The DC8 was working fine with everything else, but when I had the 660's for my T5's plugged into outlet #8 on the DC8, the T5's would not respond. When I changed the outlet from #8 to one of the middle outlets (#4 or #5) the T5's worked fine. I thought that outlet #8 was bad and was going to give Neptunes a call this week.
 
I have an issue with My DC8 and I'm sending it in for a repair.

Apparently, outlets 4 and 8 on S/N<9000 are relay controlled, and the rest are triac controlled. The relay ones are sensitive to high inrush currents, where as the triac ones are not. The reasoning i'm told all outlets are not triacs is that things with low power factors like itty bity powerheads won't turn off correctly with a triac and a relay is better suited.
 
so relay outlets 4 & 8 are better suited for devices like a CO2 solenoid. Very good. This is turning into a very informative thread.

Too bad I can't program my ACJr to turn on the little test night lite I have plugged into my DC8- I'm really lame at some things :lol:
I must have a bad program written into the thing.
 
gary check out the neptune forum they are great there also if youpm me your program I can check it I am constantly playing with mine so I have a little experience
 
thanks for the advice and the offer, Jeff.
quite frankly, I don't know how to PM you my program.
hey- I'm still learning how to set up a program :lol:

Kudos to Brian @ CF for his help in this matter.

more questions:
where do you folks mount this contraption? Fortunately for me, my sump sits in the basement (directly below my aquarium) so I can mount the controller upstairs somewhere around the aquarium -or I could put it downstairs near the sump.

I think upstairs would be much more convenient. (Tell me you folks don't play with the controller every now and then.) Maybe velcro it to the wall next to the aquarium and above it's water level? I have it password protected so the kids don't mess it up "accidentally".
What about the DC8- have special considerations/suggestions for a location? A dry place would seem a musto.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12730380#post12730380 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Conesus_Kid
Is there a maximum distance that the controller can be from the DC-8?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11259954#post11259954 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clp
We have run 50 ft in the lab and it works fine. If the electrical noise level is low where the cable is run, it will work. Yes, each direct connect box can be 10 ft apart from the previous one.

Curt
 
Sweet!! Thanks, Gary.

Sorry to hijack your thread. I'm definitely going with an AC III for the school aquarium project.
 
Gary,

What should be noted is the comment Curt made about the electrical noise. If there is any significant amount of interference (such as from high powered electrical cords ie: lights, pumps, etc) along the phone cable going to the dc8, it can trigger false statements (such as turning off your return pump!) and can cause some big problems for your livestock. I learned this the hard way after my pump shut off for the night, killing a clownfish in one of my old breeder setups. After you run your cables, you can check for intereference by running the self test on the main menu, and at the passed screen press up, up, down, down, (or it might be down down up up) then select. This will take you to another menu. Scroll to control status and hit select, and the top left number should be consistantly changing, but staying in the low 60's. If you get jumps anywhere out of this range, you have electrical interference.

I have run 25ft of phone cable without any problem. I have hooked up and programmed a bunch of aquacontrollers, so if you need any help with the code or setup, shoot me a pm.
 
Re: another question

Re: another question

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12698557#post12698557 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
I will need a Neptune DC 4 or 8 module?
Thechnically it can do X-10 control too, but given the unreliability of X-10, I wouldn't trust my aquarium to it. I may however set a timer on my Chrismas lights with it this year. (I think I read that you can connect the X-10 module after all the DCs in the chain.)

I have one of these controllers with the DC8 on order right now. MarineDepot was out of stock, but they claim they'll be shipping soon.

I didn't order the pH probe, I'm just looking to keep things cool in my FW tank this summer. Here's the program I'm thinking of:

If Sun 000/000 Then LT1* ON
If Temp > RT+2 Then LT1* OFF
Max Change 030 M Then LT1* OFF
If Temp < RT+-1.0 Then HET^ ON
If Temp > RT+0.0 Then HET^ OFF
If Temp > RT+1.0 Then FAN^ ON
If Temp < RT+0.0 Then FAN^ OFF
Max Change 030 M Then FAN^ ON
If Temp > RT+-2 Then Air^ ON
If Temp < RT+-2.4 Then Air^ OFF
Max Change 060 M Then Air^ ON

(Air runs some supplimental mechanical filtration and areation. The tank isn't dependant on it, but it gives the water a nice polish and aids cooling in summer. I may add alarms to the program when I see what the software package is like...)
 
tip: CF might have these in stock at a price lower than MD.
If purchasing locally you also get the added benefit of customer support- there's nothing like having a real person help you out.

Anybody running CO2 off an ACJr?
What are good set points for a dual chamber reactor?
I would think you'd not want the same set point for CO2 on and CO2 off (ie: <7.8 off >7.8 on) but some space between the set pH values so they don't keep turning the solenoid on and off :confused:
 
if pH < 6.65 then co2 off
if pH > 6.70 then co2 on

It is important to note that opposite statements are recommended to be .3 apart for temp, and .05 for pH.
 
more problems

more problems

Sat. the ACJR worked fine. This morning everything fired up as programmed. Tonight, the controller indicated the shutdown of two halides but the DC8 didn't obey the commands and the halides stayed on. My VHO's didn't shut down properly either- although they're off now even though the controller indicates they should be on. Go figure.

I question the repeat interval. Why have a factory set 5 minute repeat command interval.... why not have it repeat every minute?
Why is a repeat interval even necessary?

what does the program
if power 240 then VHO on mean? Is this a bogus program :confused:

I'm not liking this. I was hoping to have everything happening reliably by the end of the weekend and I'm about to call it a night.
 
Re: more problems

Re: more problems

Gary,

I have ran into problems with freshly added programs. Sometimes they don't work, sometimes they don't respond to even manual control. What I do when this happens is make sure I get all my code correct, unplug both the power to the dc8 and the jr then plug in the jr first, then the dc8. Try that out.

Lets see your whole program, and go from there.



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12754243#post12754243 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
Sat. the ACJR worked fine. This morning everything fired up as programmed. Tonight, the controller indicated the shutdown of two halides but the DC8 didn't obey the commands and the halides stayed on. My VHO's didn't shut down properly either- although they're off now even though the controller indicates they should be on. Go figure.

I question the repeat interval. Why have a factory set 5 minute repeat command interval.... why not have it repeat every minute?
Why is a repeat interval even necessary?

what does the program
if power 240 then VHO on mean? Is this a bogus program :confused:

I'm not liking this. I was hoping to have everything happening reliably by the end of the weekend and I'm about to call it a night.
 
Most Calcium reactors take so long to cycle the water through them that by the time the pH actually started reading higher then the whole reactor would be lower and the CO2 would start again. It would take some time for the reactor to lower again to meet the criteria to turn off.

Gary are you getting either a "?" symbol or a "UNK" at all?
 
if power 240 then VHO on

This activates if you have a power outage. It will turn your lights on for 240 minutes after a power outage.

These power commands may make debugging the system confusing. You'll get a diffrent behavior right after unplugging it and plugging it back in than in normal operation.
 
Re: more problems

Re: more problems

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12754243#post12754243 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
I question the repeat interval. Why have a factory set 5 minute repeat command interval.... why not have it repeat every minute?
Why is a repeat interval even necessary?
I thought the repeat interval was only needed for x-10. x-10 is very sensitive to static on the electrical lines and is rather unreliable. The repeated commands is trying to compensate for this. I thought the direct connect was supposed to get around this problem? But it sounds like you're having issues. Are all your wires coiled up? The controller is senstive to interferance.
 
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