AquaController Jr. users

[Gary Majchrzak]

Re: Re: more problems

Re: Re: more problems

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12754692#post12754692 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by acdraindrps
unplug both the power to the dc8 and the jr then plug in the jr first, then the dc8. Try that out.

thanks for the suggestion- I did that and now I understand why the VHO's stayed on last night

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12756356#post12756356 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DSkidmore
if power 240 then VHO on

This activates if you have a power outage. It will turn your lights on for 240 minutes after a power outage.

These power commands may make debugging the system confusing. You'll get a diffrent behavior right after unplugging it and plugging it back in than in normal operation.

I have to figure this out. I came home to a dark aquarium

 

[DSkidmore]

You need to post the whole program.

Did you get this used or new?
Is the clock set correctly?

I'm still waiting to get mine, so I've just been studying the manual online.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

is there an easy way to post the whole program or do I have to scroll through it and paste it here manually?

here's why I don't think it's the program: by unplugging the controller and DC8 and then re-plugging them in (after waiting a few minutes) I get different modules that are turned on. Modules the controller indicates are off are actually on and vice versa.
This also brings up another question: if there's a power outage why would somebody want their lights on for 240 minutes after it's restored?
To the best of my knowledge this is a brand new ACJr and DC8.
Maybe I'm overreacting prematurely but I'm really disappointed right now. I haven't figured this out and my aquarium will likely spend a second day in the dark tomorrow.

 

[DSkidmore]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12760608#post12760608 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
is there an easy way to post the whole program or do I have to scroll through it and paste it here manually?

Do you have the serial cable, and is the controller in reach of your computer? If so, any terminal program should be able to connect to it. l is the command for listing the program.

Manual

There is also software you can download for it, but I haven't read about it yet.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

I spent last night and early this morning playing with this thing- it didn't make any sense what was happening. Def not program error. After thinking about it all day I came home just now and went straight to the problem: I have a bad telephone jack connecting the DC8 and the controller. I need to get another cable ASAP- maybe after I make dinner. What a relief- I was getting ready to throw in the towel.

 

[Conesus_Kid]

Isn't that the way? The simple solution is always the last thing thought of! (Been there, done that, got the T shirt...)

How long is your run between the controller and the DC8?

I'm trying to plan my ACIII and DC8 layout for the school project.

Anyone know if you're better off having your longest run from the controller, or between DC8's?

Thanks!

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

my line between the controller and DC is 6 ft.
Neptune recommends keeping that run under 10' in length but people have successfully used 25'-50' runs (see previous posts in this thread) from controller to DC with 10' runs from 1st DC to 2nd DC (if a second is used).
I don't know if there are different recommendations for the ACIII.

My ACJr is finally up and running smoothly. It's pretty neat. I watched as it switched the solenoid on and off on my CO2 and turned heaters, lights and powerheads on and off. Very kewl.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

regarding the 'leap second' feature

regarding the 'leap second' feature

how badly does the controller lose time?
If I watch the seconds tick by on the display clock I can see a variation in elapsed seconds.... or am I imagining this. It seems to take a short pause every three seconds!

And what about the repeat command time interval. It's pre-ptogrammed for 5 minutes. Wouldn't it make more sense to have the interval less than 5 minutes

Of course, I'm only second guessing here. You'd think that the Neptune design team would know what's best and program it such... right?

 

[acdraindrps]

Thats what I was thinking. The clocks on 90% of the controllers I set up are either slow or fast. There is a feature to leap/lag seconds.

 

[HornetMech242]

Has any one checked these out yet? You can connect the controller to you computer via bluetooth. This way you do not have to run any cable and worry about signal loss. The only thing i could see is the information not being transmitted correctly? If your computer already has the bluetooth capability then you only need the bluetooth serial adaptor.

Chris

Wireless Aquacontroller

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

that wireless option looks kewl, Chris- I welcome anyone's comments on it here.
I'm still a newb when it comes to controllers. For example: my powerhead/pumps just completed a 'feed' cycle and my ACJr is now displaying an m symbol instead of a wave or flat line. What's up with that

 

[acdraindrps]

Capital M means manual on, lower case m is manual off.

You must have went into control/status ->manual control and changed them from auto to on or off.

If you didnt turn them off yourself, I have no idea whats up... because usually if electrical interference turns things off, the symbol will not change on the main menu.

 

[acdraindrps]

I live near the airport, so wirless components like keyboards and mouse will not work properly. I don't think I would trust it with my tank. Can't beat good ol' hardwired.

 

[acdraindrps]

Gary, I am still interested to see your program. Take them time to type it out for us so we can help troubleshoot a little better.


Chris

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12794174#post12794174 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by acdraindrps
Capital M means manual on, lower case m is manual off.

You must have went into control/status ->manual control and changed them from auto to on or off.

thanks. I went into control/status/feed and my pumps are back on. I hadn't switched anything to 'manual' and that's why I wondered why the pumps remained off after feed cycle A was completed. All I had done was press the down button (from the main full time display) to initiate a feed cycle.

I'll copy and paste my program ASAP.

 

[acdraindrps]

Gary, did you check for interference? It doesnt really sound like you have any, but I don't want to rule it out just yet.

Lets see the program!!!

 

[Namyar]

The bluetooth wirre less thing wil work but only for a specific distance most bluetooth wireless devices work to about 30 feet so be carefull with it.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

thanks for that info, Ray.

although a work in progress it might be a good idea to have others scrutinize my program so here it is as of this morning:

if time > 7:00 then VHO on
if time > 21:00 then VHO off

if time > 8:00 then MH1 on
if time > 20:00 then MH1 off

if time > 8:30 then MH2 on
if time > 19:30 then MH2 off

if time > 8:45 then MH3 on
if time > 19:15 then MH3 off

OSC 30/40 on/then MAG on

if temp > 80 then HET off
if temp < 75 then HET on

if pH < 7.85 then CO2 off
if pH > 7.85 then CO2 on

OSC 003/002 on/then MJS on

failsafes:

if temp > 84 then MH1 off
if temp > 83.5 then MH2 off
if temp > 83.5 then MH3 off

if temp < 70 then HET off

if feed A 240 then MJS off
if feed A 240 then MAG off

I don't see typos. Hopefully I didn't miss anything!


*since I don't shut down pumps during feedings I question the usefulness of feed cycles in my program
*this current program is very likely to be amended as I go along.
I want to add some kind of lunar/moon light program. The instruction manual states to use incandescent bulbs for a moonlight source and not fluorescent. Does anybody reading this know if an LED will work instead of incandescent in this situation? (The Neptune Forum is very slow at giving up answers!)

 

[DSkidmore]

I'd suggest a narrower range for heat, and a wider range for pH.

Why is your heater failsafe a low point shutoff?

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

I try to keep my aquarium between 75 and 84 degrees. I don't start to seriously worry unless it gets outside that range. I'll probably bump up the 'HET off' failsafe point to 75 like I originally had it.... I can't remember why I dropped it down to 70.

My Ca reactor is a dual chamber reactor. My pH setpoints seem to be working good right now but I'm monitoring it and I might end up widening the range. Thanks for the suggestions!