Aquaforest products- Component 1+2+3+

Hi again Alfrareef

1.) i don't think that changing from FM Balling Light to AF 1+ 2+ 3+ will improve your corals colours.
If you managed to adapted Balling Light to match Ca, Alk and Mg, it is close to a perfect system for LPS/SPS, once you deliver 2 things
- good nutrient levels (NO3 and PO4 very low, but not at 0,0)
- enough light and with correct light spectrum

2.) 1+ 2+ 3+ is a pre-mixed system and in my eyes "not the best one that AF offers"... there are Ca/Alk/Mg systems better feasible for SPS/LPS!
I see the major advantage of 1+ 2+ 3+ in its simplicity.

Why:
- it is missing dosing of Mg according tanks consumption. Mg is "just part of component 3+" (result: Mg might get too low or too high)
- Traces (in form of NaCl free salt in 3+) are added independently from your Alk and Ca consumption. instuctions is to "dose 50ml per 100 L tanksize each day. This might lead to an over- or also under-dosing of traces

hope that helps
 
It help! Confirmed the need to better understand the systems avoiding change just because it's there...
My tank PO4 and NO3 are low (0.13; 1) but need to go lower. I'm also looking at AF line for ways to have more control over those.
Thanks Martin Kuhn for your time.
Rgds,
AR
 
Hello,

someone in one of the Italian forum suggested me to reduce the quantity of the component 3 (1/2 dosing - max 3/4) because I have few corals in the tank and the risk is the intoxication or burn some pinnacle in growth. What do you think about ?


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Hello,

someone in one of the Italian forum suggested me to reduce the quantity of the component 3 (1/2 dosing - max 3/4) because I have few corals in the tank and the risk is the intoxication or burn some pinnacle in growth. What do you think about ?


Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk

all components are balanced and should be dosed equally

if you are at UNLS (Ulra Low Nutrients )

dKH should not exceed 8 and is better near 7 NSW

if you have few corals the dose will be low anyway
if you have few corals water changes may well be enough on there own to replenish the used elements
 
Hi again Alfrareef

1.) i don't think that changing from FM Balling Light to AF 1+ 2+ 3+ will improve your corals colours.
If you managed to adapted Balling Light to match Ca, Alk and Mg, it is close to a perfect system for LPS/SPS, once you deliver 2 things
- good nutrient levels (NO3 and PO4 very low, but not at 0,0)
- enough light and with correct light spectrum

2.) 1+ 2+ 3+ is a pre-mixed system and in my eyes "not the best one that AF offers"... there are Ca/Alk/Mg systems better feasible for SPS/LPS!
I see the major advantage of 1+ 2+ 3+ in its simplicity.

Why:
- it is missing dosing of Mg according tanks consumption. Mg is "just part of component 3+" (result: Mg might get too low or too high)
- Traces (in form of NaCl free salt in 3+) are added independently from your Alk and Ca consumption. instuctions is to "dose 50ml per 100 L tanksize each day. This might lead to an over- or also under-dosing of traces

hope that helps

123 is full Balling though and should be dosed equally :fun2:

You can purchase separate Ca Mg and Carbonate and add components strong + Kallium
 
123 is full Balling though and should be dosed equally :fun2:

You can purchase separate Ca Mg and Carbonate and add components strong + Kallium


Dosing espceially Ca and Alk in my eyes is outdated, still several manufactrers recommend it. Of course you can.

BUT depending on which of the 2 vaues you adjust your dosing (Alk OR Ca), the the other component might get either to "too high", or to "too low" values.

In my eyes it is CLEARLY better and closer to natural seawater if dosing NOT EQUALLY (not in a fix ratio)
 
AF, Perry, can I make a recommendation/request. For those of us who dose 1,2,3 straight from the AF containers (love the pics by the way on the containers) van we get the containers clear and visibly see through instead of opaque white? It would be a major plus for AF I think.
 
AF, Perry, can I make a recommendation/request. For those of us who dose 1,2,3 straight from the AF containers (love the pics by the way on the containers) van we get the containers clear and visibly see through instead of opaque white? It would be a major plus for AF I think.

Hello,
I am fairly certain that due to micro elements that are in the containers, it helps to keep light out, I could be wrong though :) I will clarify next time I communicate with Sever or Debora :) Cheers!
 
Hi. What will be the correct dosing method? Com 1 follow by 2 and final 3. I am dosing each at 1hr interval. Isit ok?
 
Not me,

Comp-1 then Comp-3 lastly Comp-2

Dail in Comp-2 (Alk) parameter dosage first.

IF Comp-1 (Calcium / Mag) is low then raise with a pure Calcium booster. Not Comp-1.

Eventually all 3 components will even out to your Comp-2 (Alk) same dosage.

Component 1+ 2+ 3+ is very stable once locked in.

My apex pump schedule

1) Comp-1 40ml from 9am to 10am (Calcium / Mag)
2) Comp-3 40ml from 5pm to 6pm (I believe it's trace elements)
3) Comp-2 40ml from 10pm to 11pm (Alk) Dose late to help keep PH up over night.
 
One hour between each component should be ok.
I just like Comp-2 (Alk) during the night to help keep up ph while lights are out.
 
I just mixed my first batch of 123. My component 1 has a milky precipitate. Is this normal? It settles and I have to shake. I made 4 liters.


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I'm using the comp 1+2+3 since 2 months and the values of my tank (berlinese method) are very constants.

I have regulated the quantities of the products on the KH. Currently the KH is 7/7,3... usually I'm changing the water every 15 days (more or less 15%) with Aquaforest reef salt.

I red that component 1+2+3 contains also microelements... my question is... how many days have to pass between to water changes ?

I think that with this products (comp 1+2+3) maybe is possible to reduce the "water change" because we add constantly in the tank all microelements... like in the Triton method. what do you think ?


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I'm using the comp 1+2+3 since 2 months and the values of my tank (berlinese method) are very constants.

I have regulated the quantities of the products on the KH. Currently the KH is 7/7,3... usually I'm changing the water every 15 days (more or less 15%) with Aquaforest reef salt.

I red that component 1+2+3 contains also microelements... my question is... how many days have to pass between to water changes ?

I think that with this products (comp 1+2+3) maybe is possible to reduce the "water change" because we add constantly in the tank all microelements... like in the Triton method. what do you think ?


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I believe your correct... Component 1+ 2+ 3+ keeps replacing your trace elements that are in the salt mix. That's my understanding.

Less water changes may be possible for the trace elements in Comp 1-3+ but...
I'm not going to tell anybody to reduce their water changes for things like nitrates and detritus removal etc...
 
A quick check. Can i substitute the reef salt in component 3 with my probotic reef salt? Will there be any issue?

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That is not "Reef Salt" in Component 3, it is "Reef Mineral Salt". This is completely different than salt for your tank, it is more of a balling salt, designed to help buffer minerals.
 
That is not "Reef Salt" in Component 3, it is "Reef Mineral Salt". This is completely different than salt for your tank, it is more of a balling salt, designed to help buffer minerals.
So i cant sub with my probotic salt? Looks like shopping time again. [emoji16]
 
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