Aquatronica

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Before this thing gets completely derailed I'll give you my opinion on your question Psyire (and the few that have emailed me about this topic). The Biotopus II is a stable, mature and flexible product. The Biotopus I came out about 8 year ago and we still offer this unit along with the new biotopus II. So I don't sound like a complete commercial for the Elos unit, the IKS is also a mature product as well as the Aqua Controller line. The Biotopus does not have a webserver but the internal ability exists to add a web sever and it is being developed. It does have SMS available now. The serial port also doubles as the connection to the SMS module. Because this system is very mature and stable, firmware updates will not be very often and a very inexpensive serial to USB adapter will work, if needed.
On board but not yet implemented:
Infra red port to control a remote display or remote equipment such as switching off the TV
Dedicated port to add up to 255 additional plugs/equipment.
Special probes port for new probes as they are developed.
There is more I just can't think of it now:)

The biotopus is very flexible and includes unique things such as:
over 1,000 biotopes that can be simulated. not just lights and temp but everything.
built in dosing pump functionality for up to 6 dosing pumps
built in top off controller and float switch. The float switch is made of blown glass.
connection for moonlight to simulate moonphase
connection to control variable tension including dimmable ballast or variable pumps
connection to external dialer (you can connect it, for example, to send the alarm via a home alarm dialer.
SMS will give you updates, alarms for things out of parameter and you can control assigned equipment via a GSM phone.
Lux probe to check bulb condition and assist in coral placement
If you use our aquaplanet line of lights you can add an interface within the light fixture to allow you to control the light(s) with a simple telephone cord to the biotopus and one power cord. (Allows up to 3 groups to be controlled indivdually. Example. If you have the aquaplanet II T5 with 6x 39, you can control 3 groups of 2 lights to fit your needs with one power cord and one telephone cable to the biotopus.
The materials and construction really must be seen to appreciate. The body of the biotopus and the SMS module are aluminum and everything is custom made with no commercial parts as you find in most every other controller. The black polished front and silver buttons are very nice, as well. The internal components and probes have been certified in Italy to be immune to outside disturbances. We also produce a special application for Municipal water test, lab and industry process. There is more but I'm getting hungry...........

In fairness to the Aquatronica the price difference reflects how different these products really are and it is a bit unfair to expect it to compare favorable to the biotopus II. Not sure of the US prices for the AQ but in Italy the AQ is sold direct to the customer for around 550 euro and the biotopus is around 1850 euros through retailers and distributors.
I will be back in Europe for Interzoo and I will post in the Elos forum the new things that will be introduced for the biotopus II, among other things, if you are interested. Once again, I don't want to derail your thread but I thought if I got to it now, this thread can continue on about the AQ, which it should. Thanks, Jesse
 
Sweet, but as I was reading I heard the drum roll going and then clang the price came out.. Youch that would be like $1800 for the controller alone, not to mention the mired of other things one would need!

I got to get to know Fliger better, he might be Bill Gates Son :)
 
Hey Guys I need some help.

I dont know what I could have done but somehow my E is messed up on the powerstrip, its constant on. Timing function isnt working at all, and its NOT set to be on all day...

Its controlling my T5's and it started with not kicking out the lights @ 10pm a couple times in about a week. Then last week I added 2 hours to the photo period and since then its been constant on... 24/7.

I'm using the PC to program, Could I have done something stupid to cause this??
 
In the software under the power strip you caan manualy turn things on. is there a hand on the display? for E?
 
Ok,

What ever I am doing wrong has everything to do with using the Laptop to program.

I just deleted and reprogramed everything using the control unit and so far, looks good. :)

So anyone have any ideas how I'm messing up with the laptop? I'd sure like to use the PC Interface instead of pushing buttons...
 
On timers, just 2 MH ballasts and 1 T5 ballast.

For whatever reason when I use the laptop to program, the channel I select ends up being constant on.
 
I don't have it in front of me so bear with me. For on you put in the time range for all days of the week in military time. It is a little confusing at first.
 
This is from when I had the same problem. There is a lot of good info in this thread if you take the time to read it.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6422046#post6422046 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nicholasvilppu
Here you go.
aqua.bmp

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6422091#post6422091 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Armando
OK so you actually don't need to enter anything on the "ON" field. If you remove the "8:00" it should work fine.

The ON and OFF fields are used for cycle timer. In other words, use it if you want the device to turn on and off repeatedly during the From-To timeframe.

For example, my light mover is set to work from 14:30 to 21:30, ON for 1 minute and OFF for 30 minutes. Moves the light for 1 minute every 30 minutes.
 
Obove is from when I was having the same problem and Armondo's post helped fix the problem. Only enter the time from and to. that is it and it has to be military time.
 
I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right. I had it working before... This just happened when I went to increase the photoperiod.

I have it working right using the controller, same inputs used...

*Edit*

Thanks, I do have a time in the On, But I did before also and it worked. I've had this going for about 6 weeks...

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that.

I've read the thread, theres a lot in here to read. :D
 
No.

Everything was fine yesterday, Today everything come on like it was suppose to, Left halide went out on time, right one stuck on. T5s went out on time. I turned it to manual then back to auto and the T5's stuck on. SO right now I have 2 lights unplugged. I'll be home all week So I'm going to play with it more tomorrow... (I travel a lot so this is a concern!) I might just do a complete erase on the control unit tomorrow and start over.
 
I would unplugging everything and then doing a hard reset on the controller. Then start plugging things back in. I'm not sure if this will work, but it might. (I've never had this problem)
 
Will a hard reset erase everything? (including pH calibration?) I'm out of solution... Just curious before I do it. If I lose the calibration on my Ca reactor probe I'll need to shut the C02 down til I can get more solution...

I just went ahead and erased all inserts again, reprogramed with the controller, left the time "ON" Empty, the two outlets for my T5's and right MH are still stuck in on. :(

Programed inserts for E (T5) are:
From 10:00 to 20:00 00:00 00:00
From 20:00 to 22:00 00:00 00:00

Programed insert for D (R MH) is:
From 16:00 to 21:00 00:00 00:00

Time now is 1:30 and both outlets light up...
 
Ron,
First, thank you for the replacement parts however I have decided to return them because I'm concerned about the rust issue and would appreciate a replacement probe when this problem is addressed by the manufacturer. If you think I won't have the same rust issue with the new replacement probe I will keep it.
I have another problem now, unrelated to the salinity probe. I have 2 400 watt metal halides that will no longer work with the outlet I was controlling them from (F I think). I moved them to outlet A, and they work fine from there but won't work at all from the F outlet. Any ideas?

Thank you,
Jim
 
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