At a loss... thoughts, advice, etc?

In my experience it never just one cause that causes a major coral die off . It's usually a combination of factors .
I highly doubt it's the salt . I could use Morton's and grow corals .
 
In my experience it never just one cause that causes a major coral die off . It's usually a combination of factors .
I highly doubt it's the salt . I could use Morton's and grow corals .


THAT I would like to see! Only issues I had was with sps and some lps. Zoas and chalices did fine. Sps was an absolute s-show
 
Man what a [profanity] match. LOL.

Glad you got this solved. BTW Randy Holmes Farley also recommends and uses IO salt.

a refractometer is required for a reef tank. hydrometers are not accurate enough. Any refractometer will work, but i would get some calibration fluid too. It can be very helpful because they are adjustable and dropping them can affect results drastically.
 
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Zero is a far calibration point from 1.023 or even further from 1.025. You want to use a solution that is closer to the value that you are looking for . This will give you a more precise reading than using zero. I've found it could even be a couple points off .
 
Yep agreed. I had that problem. Especially if your di resin needs replacing.

Always calibrate near your measured value. Preferably on it.
 
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Please refrain from responding if you are unable to do so in a mature fashion. Personal attacks, name calling and profanity don't convey anything useful or positive.
 
update: While it was "great" to have discovered that my salinity levels were actually much higher than my hydrometer was reporting, I am afraid that fixing that variable has not fixed my problem - virtually every single frag that I purchased recently is either dead or experiencing the same slow tissue necrosis the others have already experienced.

Now that my salinity is back in line (and being measured with spectrometer instead of swing arm hydrometer), I believe all the chemistry is where it "should" be, so I'm left with exploring more extreme/bizarre possibilities... and I'd love hear your thoughts if you've experienced this yourself (or recall reading about it on other threads)!

1. Though I am now in the process of doing water changes with IO salt, I have discovered that the Red Sea Salt buckets that I had been making my water with for many, many months now have NOTHING printed in the "batch number" box on their label - is there a chance that I bought "counterfeit" salt (with god knows what mixed in with it)? I bought 4 buckets worth last time around, and though I don't know if I subscribe to the "blue bucket = bad" theory, I do know that my problems did start around the same time as I bought that large batch of salt (from Marine Depot, if I remember correctly).

2. There is a bacteria or other microscopic pathogen of some sort in my tank. Possible, but given that it seems to be affecting almost all types of coral, and it seems to hit them quickly, suggests to me that this isn't it, but again, I'm at wit's end right now, so I have to at least consider it, right? (and, fwiw, there are definitely no visible critters attacking the coral).

3. My dosing pumps are either a) pumping too much solution (not likely, given that my test results seem to be in line?), or b) what they're pumping is contaminated (alk and ca solution both purchased from Bulk Reef Supply... and I've never heard anything bad about them in terms of poor quality?).

4. There is some other contaminant in my tank (but how to detect this?!)... possibilities include: something rusting somewhere (would this cause the sort of tissue die-off I'm seeing across the board?), something leeching out of the plumbing in the chiller, the foam filters in the sump leeching a toxin of some sort (same ones I've had for a long time now, so not likely?), or, getting way out there, the fact that my washer and dryer are in the same room is causing some sort of chemical to float through the air and contaminate the water (again, not likely given that they've been in the same room for as long as the tank has been set up, and there wasn't a problem the first four years).

As mentioned in my first post, I have ruled out stray voltage (assuming I was using the meter correctly, which I believe I was after watching several demos online), and aside from the elevated salinity levels that I recently discovered, everything else seems to be where it should be (for the record, here are this morning's readings of what I test - salinity 26, ph 8.1, alk 8.5, ca 420, mag 1380, phosphate 0 (Hannah checker - usually reads between 0 and .04)).

It is driving me CRAZY to not know why I can't keep coral alive in my tank anymore! What could be killing them?!?!

Thanks again for any additional thoughts you may still have regarding this problem!!
 
I would take the dosing pumps off line and just rely on water changes for a little while. I would also run some carbon and gfo.
 
I appreciate the suggestion... but I did take them offline for quite awhile in hopes that it would fix the problem, but it didn't (and carbon/GFO are already both in place :-( ).
 
I'll keep "complete rebuild" on the table as an option... but I'm hoping to find a diagnosis that will allow me to zero in on the problem rather than toss everything (and then re-buy all new everything). Thanks for the reminder that it's an option though!
 
Sorry to hear things aren't improving.

How long has the salinity been back to normal range? Perhaps things are just taking a while to recover.

I assume you are using a refractometer, not a spectrometer.

Have you calibrated the refractometer? With what? Most hobby grade refractometers should be calibrated with 1.026 and not RO/DI water.

I'd still look at the nitrates. With things dying, it might be out of whack. I'd be happy to test your water with my Salifert kit so we know where we stand with nitrates.

Does your new salt mix up to a close match to the tank water?

I don't see if you mentioned how you mix your saltwater. Do you use RO/DI?
 
yes - refractometer... my bad :-) calibrated with the calibration fluid that came with it (ATC refractometer, purchased from BRS)

Salinity back in line for a little over a week now (maybe close to 2?) after being dropped from 32 to 26 over a period of 5 days (too fast maybe?)

To be honest, I don't have a nitrate kit, but Caeser's reported them as "fine" when I brought in a water sample.

The new salt isn't exactly the same as tank water, but I'm only changing in 5 gallon increments (on a 120 gallon tank - roughly 100 gallons of actual water).

Yes, I use RO/DI water to mix salt.

Again, I'm at a loss since none of the "obvious" stuff seems to be out of line... given that even my ultra-hardy pocillopora died off in the initial crash (and not to be a conspiracy theorist), but I am growing more suspicious of the fact that my old salt buckets don't have batch numbers on them (anybody out there have Red Sea Salt blue buckets? are the batch numbers printed in ink that you'd guess rubs off easily? mine are completely blank with no remnants of faded marks, etc.)... IS there a such thing as a "counterfeit market" for reef tank salt?! :-)
 
Counterfeit salt! Brought to you by the folks not smart enough to counterfeit anything valuable! :)

Sure it's possible but I don't think it's likely.

You might want to step up the frequency of WC if you are only doing 5G per.

The other thing you might consider is some kind of heavy metal pollution. ChemiPure or Poly-Filter would help with that.

Of course since it's only been a couple of weeks, perhaps it's all good and will recover on it's own. My tanks always seem to go bad fast and recover slowly.
 
heh - at the current rate, there won't be anything left to recover! :-)

the salt idea is far-fetched, I know, but I do find it "odd" that my problems did start at about the same time I got the new salt AND my salt buckets don't seem to have batch numbers associated with them (if nothing else, perhaps it means something was amiss on the manufacturing line).

that being said, I agree that some other contaminant is the most likely explanation... but I can't find any obvious source (and don't know of any way to test for it (other than copper, which I've already ruled out via a test kit)).

Every single coral is dying off in the exact same way - STN from edges... at same time rest of coral "fades"... until tissue is so thin it finally just gives way and vanishes. Seems like a phenomenon that is being caused by a chemistry problem... but what chemical (and how to get it out of my system)?! :-)
 
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