ATI Powermodule too powerful for SPS?

[Southreef]

Do you mix your own saltwater or do you get NSW? If you make RO/DI water... when was the last time you changed your RO membrane? The other filters in the RODI unit? Do you have any metal fittings in your system(water change system or otherwise)? It seems to me we're missing something simple here...

 

[snaza]

Do you mix your own saltwater or do you get NSW? If you make RO/DI water... when was the last time you changed your RO membrane? The other filters in the RODI unit? Do you have any metal fittings in your system(water change system or otherwise)? It seems to me we're missing something simple here...

Thanks for the response. Good questions.

I use NSW from the same place in australia for 8 years. 25% monthly water changes.

I replace my RODI cartridges every 12 months. I replace them, including DI resin, 1 month ago. TDS is 0.

No metal fittings anywhere.

cheers

Aaron

 

[snaza]

Any other ideas?

Did a 25% water change on the weekend

 

[TheReefKeeper]

I use NSW from the same place in australia for 8 years.

Have you checked their salinity? Check yours with multiple tests I just found mine was off tested with 4 different methods before I believed it..

Tested with my Refractometer and it was off I could not get it calibrated.
Bought a cheap box tester and saw it off but din't believe the cheap plastic box.
I then bought the digital Hanna and it was wayy off from the box LOL.
I then bought a old school AquaMedic Glass Hydrometer and found the digital Hanna was right on.

Long story short my salinity was something I completely over looked for a year may be worth a check.

I checked RODI added more filters
Tested with 3 different test kits
Bought new thermometers
Changed salts
changed lights
changed skimmers

It was all Salinity :facepalm:

 

[Chris Lakies]

How far off was the salinity?

 

[snaza]

Have you checked their salinity? Check yours with multiple tests I just found mine was off tested with 4 different methods before I believed it..

Tested with my Refractometer and it was off I could not get it calibrated.
Bought a cheap box tester and saw it off but din't believe the cheap plastic box.
I then bought the digital Hanna and it was wayy off from the box LOL.
I then bought a old school AquaMedic Glass Hydrometer and found the digital Hanna was right on.

Long story short my salinity was something I completely over looked for a year may be worth a check.

I checked RODI added more filters
Tested with 3 different test kits
Bought new thermometers
Changed salts
changed lights
changed skimmers

It was all Salinity :facepalm:

thanks. what were the symptoms? I did find my salinity was little high a couple months back but got it back to 1.026. my last batch of NSW was 1.0275

:thumbsup:

 

[shlap]

I would definitely reduce your photo-period with those PAR numbers. I get great color and growth and my SPS only see 4.5hrs max intensity (switched from a 6 bulb ATI to LED). When I was using the Sunpower, I had the whites on for about 6 hours, but my PAR was nowhere near yours.

 

[Bo0sted_Rafi]

sounds like an alkalinity issue.

+1

 

[dkeller_nc]

You have an unusual situation. Most of us trying to diagnose an SPS STN/bleaching problem don't have another tank on the same system where the exact same colonies are doing very well.

Given that's the case for you, you've eliminated 90% of the water chemistry and nutrient export questions that need to be run down in the case of poor SPS survivability.

This is what I'd suggest. Don't alter your photoperiod, since you have SPS that are doing very well. Instead, remove 2 of the 10 bulbs in the ATI fixture. Or raise the entire fixture by another 10" off of the water. That will drop the intensity of your lights somewhat, and perhaps give the acros in your frag tank a chance to adjust to the main display.

One other thing to check - since you frag tank and the DT are on the same water system, there's really only one thing that could be substantially different between the two tanks - temperature. You might want to measure the temp of the DT very closely, particularly near the end of the photoperiod just to make sure that your tank temp isn't over 80 deg F.

 

[snaza]

+1

alk is stable 8.0 with multiple test kits. Been rock solid for 6 months.

 

[sahin]

Its so frustrating when you dont know whats causing the issue. What makes it even more crazy is that a connected system is doing fine.

Can I suggest that if its at all possible, can you get at least a couple of reefer buddies who have GOOD SPS tanks to come over and go to go over everything about your tank? Maybe even bring their own test kits along and test BY THEMSELVES.

This is no way making you out to be a bad reefer, so please dont take offense, but rather, sometimes we may miss something that someone else may spot right away.

Keep us updated.

 

[TheReefKeeper]

+1^ on some others helping out sometimes we just miss something.

It don't seem like alk. check temp with a few different instruments also. I would check everything with a few different kits. I would also cut photoperiod if your questioning lights or raise em up or both. worse thing is the corals brow out a bit but at least light is ruled out.

I'll say it again check salt with more than one tester I just went through this after 15 years in the hobby I stumped and shocked.

not sure you can rule out pests either pull the worst looking coral and dip it if noting above works see if anything falls off cant hurt right?

 

[TheReefKeeper]

Going back looking at that PE what are you running for flow is it possibly being hammered with too much flow? Will that coral have the same poor PE in a lower light lower flow part of the tank? Take a frag and place it in a known lower light lower flow area to test flow issues.

 

[stancfii]

I'm going to go with too much light. I agree w reducing the photoperiod or raising the lights. Stick the frags you've transferred into a corner and make a shade spot for them using window screen layers until they are getting the same par they were in the frag tank. Slowly remove the layers and then move the frags in and up over time. Many SPS photosaturate around 300 PAR, there's a good article Dana Riddle did in 2007 about that, so that may reinforce the light theory.

 

[Trevor40]

Just read over this thread. Are there any updates?

 

[Ssteve]

Just read over this thread. Are there any updates?

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