ATO Chiller and Control Center Questions

[BeanMachine]

Hey Guys... looking for some ideas and advice.

I want to make a cabinet... thinking something like a welded steel stand... two levels. Chiller and ATO on the bottom, and a power controller center on top. If I enclose the cabinet can I run a fan to remove the heat from the chiller? Anyone have something like this?

Would a 1/3 HP chiller be ok just for emergencies? Ill have about 350 gallons. Ive always run fans over my sump, but this one has lids so that wont be possible.

Also any links on a cool power center board. Thinking of going with a smoked acrylic with leds behind to light it up. I have a router... do I need special bits for acrylic?

 

[BeanMachine]

Oh and random question... can I get a bulkhead nut that is slightly smaller diameter without the hexagon? 1.5 inch bulkhead. Its not going to hold wqter... its to pass my return plumbing up througj my stand so its supported.

 

[SanClementeEric]

Oh and random question... can I get a bulkhead nut that is slightly smaller diameter without the hexagon? 1.5 inch bulkhead. Its not going to hold wqter... its to pass my return plumbing up througj my stand so its supported.

Just the nut? They have round ridged ones for threaded bulkheads. I'm not sure if the threadings the same but probably is...

 

[BeanMachine]

Just the nut? They have round ridged ones for threaded bulkheads. I'm not sure if the threadings the same but probably is...

Haha yeah just the nut. Where can I get one?. I need it to be 1/4 inch less in diamater to fit so I can screw it tigjht.

 

[five.five-six]

Hey Guys... looking for some ideas and advice.

I want to make a cabinet... thinking something like a welded steel stand... two levels. Chiller and ATO on the bottom, and a power controller center on top. If I enclose the cabinet can I run a fan to remove the heat from the chiller? Anyone have something like this?

Would a 1/3 HP chiller be ok just for emergencies? Ill have about 350 gallons. Ive always run fans over my sump, but this one has lids so that wont be possible.

Also any links on a cool power center board. Thinking of going with a smoked acrylic with leds behind to light it up. I have a router... do I need special bits for acrylic?

I think you were playing with fire. The reason being is that a chiller for use in emergencies by definition is going to be used when it’s hotter than normal. I’m not saying that can’t be done but what I’m saying is that you need to over engineer your exhaust fan. Also remember that if your exhaust fan is going to work also has to be someplace for the air to come in from.

 

[SanClementeEric]

I saw these. I'm not sure how they compare to the bulkhead nuts you currently have but the measurements are listed: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/bulkhead.html

There might be other options; have to research that one a bit.

 

[SanClementeEric]

I think you were playing with fire. The reason being is that a chiller for use in emergencies by definition is going to be used when it's hotter than normal. I'm not saying that can't be done but what I'm saying is that you need to over engineer your exhaust fan. Also remember that if your exhaust fan is going to work also has to be someplace for the air to come in from.

And this guy knows fire! (Sorry... Too soon?)

 

[BeanMachine]

I saw these. I'm not sure how they compare to the bulkhead nuts you currently have but the measurements are listed: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/bulkhead.html

There might be other options; have to research that one a bit.

That may work. Thanks Eric.

 

[laverda]

You could build your cabinet to in essence replace the chiller housing, so you are not restricting air flow to it. Ideally you want your chiller outside. A 1/3 hp chiller will easily heat a large space. Having it in the room with the tank will heat up the room putting more heat in the tank for the chiller to remove.
You could drill some holes and mount some fans to the lid of your sump blowing down and provide a vent area for the moist air to escape. You could also have fans above your overflow.
Standard router bits will work fine. Drill bits for acrylic are cut at a steeper angle. I have several you can barrow, if you need them.

 

[five.five-six]

And this guy knows fire! (Sorry... Too soon?)

Not too soon, when I first got to the regional burn center ICU, I had to remove my gown so all the doctors and nurses could inspect the damage.

As my robe hit the ground I announced: I know you are all impressed but let's try and focus on the burn. I had a room full of highly trained medical professionals laughing their asses off lol

 

[SanClementeEric]

Lol!

 

[five.five-six]

I thought my wife was going to die from embarrassment.

 

[BeanMachine]

Not too soon, when I first got to the regional burn center ICU, I had to remove my gown so all the doctors and nurses could inspect the damage.

As my robe hit the ground I announced: I know you are all impressed but let's try and focus on the burn. I had a room full of highly trained medical professionals laughing their asses off lol

Hahahahhahaha

 

[BeanMachine]

You could build your cabinet to in essence replace the chiller housing, so you are not restricting air flow to it. Ideally you want your chiller outside. A 1/3 hp chiller will easily heat a large space. Having it in the room with the tank will heat up the room putting more heat in the tank for the chiller to remove.
You could drill some holes and mount some fans to the lid of your sump blowing down and provide a vent area for the moist air to escape. You could also have fans above your overflow.
Standard router bits will work fine. Drill bits for acrylic are cut at a steeper angle. I have several you can barrow, if you need them.

Thanks Steve. I could put the chiller outside and run the lines into the house... but it would be im my front yard...

I want to put concrete outide that window... could make it a porch wtih a bench to hide it.

 

[thegrun]

Cody, I thought the tank sat on the side wall of your house, is there room for the chiller there? As to putting the chiller in a cabinet the back of the cabinet would need to be wide open for the exhaust with a sizable gap between the back of the cabinet and the wall. The front of the cabinet would also need be mostly a louver. If you restrict the air flow though the chiller at all you are going to severely reduce the chillers ability to cool water. The chiller will definitely warm up your fish room, but if you keep those big doors open the heat will exit and the room will not overheat and the chiller will still function well.

 

[laverda]

Thanks Steve. I could put the chiller outside and run the lines into the house... but it would be im my front yard...

I want to put concrete outide that window... could make it a porch wtih a bench to hide it.

It is just ideal, not practical for most people to do. I am glad my new tank stays much cooler then my 240 did. Not Having a canopy and using LEDs makes a big difference, my old canopy would get to 120 degrees even with good sized fans on each end. I have a lot less fans on my 300 gallon the idid on the 240 and it stays 3-4 degrees cooler even though it gets hotter here.

 

[solitude127]

If you can't place the chiller outside, could you run some duct work to have the exhaust of the chiller vent outside?

 

[ycnibrc]

1/3 h chiller should be fine since u run your temperature at 78-79 anyway. It might take a little longer to cool the water.

 

[five.five-six]

If you can't place the chiller outside, could you run some duct work to have the exhaust of the chiller vent outside?

You could but you would want to get the CFM of the exhaust fan from the chiller manufacture and you would need to calculate what sized axillary fan based on that and the duct size and the number and radius of turns and bends and any other restrictions.

 

[BeanMachine]

You could but you would want to get the CFM of the exhaust fan from the chiller manufacture and you would need to calculate what sized axillary fan based on that and the duct size and the number and radius of turns and bends and any other restrictions.

The chiller would be on the perimeter wall of the house... so straight outside. No bends etc just a foot or two of duct and a dryer vent for the exterior?