Are Dana's statements/findings posted anywhere yet?
From my experience with LEDs sps respond best to 75-150 par from white and blue led lighting. Once you get to 200-250 things start to look very bleached, these observations are from multiple reefs as well as one reef at diferent depths. While you can get 500 par with MH and get great color LEDs are a different light source and apparently doesn't directly compare. There are a lot of spectrums outside of 450-460 that royal blue LEDs produce that affects a MH PAR reding. I think the key to led sps tanks is 75-150 par, 8-9dkh 400+ Ca and 1250+ Mg. Stable parameters and low nutrients as usual with sps. From your initial posting .25ppm of PO4 is very high it should be 1/5th that at most. If you have too much nutrients things turn brown, too much light they bleach out and recede in direct light. The brown turns me to nutrients. BTW I have seen several sps getting 250 par from LEDs growing almost 1" a month, from the side they looked great to maybe a little bleached, from above I would have thought they were dead the bleaching was so bad. Dropped the PAR on them to 150 and they look much better in 3 weeks.
Most white LEDs put out spikes in yellow, green and red that are too high and can damage some deeper water corals where the natural depth of the water would filter those out. Some corals can reflect it, but it looks different to our eyes than it would if they reflected less, but some cannot and they can hate you and die. MH and Flourescent have those spikes too, but at a more appropriate level that have been fine tuned over the years. Even though lots of people don't know that this is the reason, you see lots of tanks with whites turned way down getting better results. Przemek lays this out way better than I ever could in the thread that he linked.
this is the accurate statement. however, he felt the hobby meter was useless as it missed 100% of light in some spectrums. it was the apogee? iirc he did say to correct the meter by 20% or more, so maybe it has some valve with LEDs, just not his study?
I have been a Led user since I set up my tank about 2 years ago and I have to agree with JDA that there is some truth in the white leds can damage or don't produce enough of the correct spectrum for sps corals. Over the years I found that minimizing the white light produce the best results. I am putting together a project to reduce my whites in my fixtures about 50%. I think if I could do it over again I would leverage LED for the blues and T5 or MH 10k for the Whites. Just my opinion from my experience.
Yup..............I tried to explain this over a year ago but it was largely ignored due to the hype of LEDs.
Some acros cannot regulate or reflect certain spectrums in the range the white LEds put out. The acro just keep taking it in until it either bleaches, dies, or pales out. It's not that the spectrum is wrong it's that there just way too much of it.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2198810
The RB and blue diodes can duplicate a blue+ bulb fairly well, but the white diodes can't come close to what a coral+ or AB special put out.
Trying to mix RB, blues & whites is a major challange to copy a Coral+ or AB special.
Here's a successful set up over time that's a good model......once he swapped out for whiter bulbs his colors got even more insane.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2175051
Yup..............I tried to explain this over a year ago but it was largely ignored due to the hype of LEDs.
Some acros cannot regulate or reflect certain spectrums in the range the white LEds put out. The acro just keep taking it in until it either bleaches, dies, or pales out. It's not that the spectrum is wrong it's that there just way too much of it.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2198810
The RB and blue diodes can duplicate a blue+ bulb fairly well, but the white diodes can't come close to what a coral+ or AB special put out.
Trying to mix RB, blues & whites is a major challange to copy a Coral+ or AB special.
Here's a successful set up over time that's a good model......once he swapped out for whiter bulbs his colors got even more insane.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2175051
Yes...........he's had some long term success mixing T5s and LED.
I've seen more and more people using T5 to supplement with their LEDs.............it works, it's easy, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
If I was buying new lights, I'd just buy a few of the many Sol blues or whatever W/B units that are for sale used, add some T5's and find the combo I like best. It beats the heck out of buying those newest commercial units price wise and it'll rival anything with top colors.
I focused more on the commercial units than what can be done strictly with DIY leds because it's beyond my DIY capabilities. What you have done is at a different level and ahead of the curve of what commercial units are doing.
Yes...........he's had some long term success mixing T5s and LED.
I've seen more and more people using T5 to supplement with their LEDs.............it works, it's easy, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
If I was buying new lights, I'd just buy a few of the many Sol blues or whatever W/B units that are for sale used, add some T5's and find the combo I like best. It beats the heck out of buying those newest commercial units price wise and it'll rival anything with top colors.
I focused more on the commercial units than what can be done strictly with DIY leds because it's beyond my DIY capabilities. What you have done is at a different level and ahead of the curve of what commercial units are doing.
The coral immediately reflects a lot of light, which is half of what we see. True full spectrum light that is reflected looks better than less spectrum. LED fixtures are getting more spectrum, but still are not as full as other types of bulbs... so, less colors to reflect.
The other half of what we see is light that is rejected after it is used in a spectrum with less energy (450 goes in, is used and 520 is spit back out... or whatever).
...so the issue with LED is two-fold, IMO:
1). Some of the spectrum is damaging
2). Limited spectrum is reflected back for less colorful corals
3, maybe). I have absolutely no way to quantify this and I have seen the research that photosynthesis unequivocally stops in UV, but this study was old and with low depth corals from what I saw (and some of it was done with plants), but I just feel deep down in my gut that true UV might be used by lots of SPS just like 400-500 range gets used... the UV is absorbed and lower energy light spit back out as purple or blue. UV does penetrate to the depth of most SPS. Of course, I did not even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so what do I know?
I have gotten laughed off of boards too, but mostly by what I will call the "bio-cube generation" with more internet experience than actual experience. I got to where I did not care about what most people thought about my opinions unless they had a wide breath and depth of SPS under at least one other type of light. Most of the posters who clowned me did not know anything other than their current setup - a few did and I really paid attention to what they said. As I talk with my friends around the country who have been into SPS as long as I have, not a single one of them has seen a tank that had ultimate colors using LED - some of the reefers were fine with this because they liked the other awesome things that LED brings and they just lived with less color. There are a lot of things to love about LED - specifically for me, where they might be in years to come - but ultimate SPS color is not one of them in 2013... most people who have had awesome success with high-end MH and SPS will likely tell you the same thing.
TBD - if you do go to metal halides and the 400W 20K Radiums won't need any 450nm supplementation for your eyes and the coral sure does not need it. If you need dusk/dawn, then that is different.
I think that there is a graph in that thread of a 6,500 GE bulb and it did not have spikes as high in the yellow as the white LEDs do - I saw one in some thread, so my apologies if I misremembered. Also, in the 1980s, what we kept is a lot different that what we keep now, at least for me. Most of what I had in the 1980s, nobody would want now... not all, but most. I have no doubt that a 5500 or 6500 bulb might burn most modern SPS a bit too.
There are no studies. If you are looking for some, we won't get them, ever. Most of the studies that we do get are narrow in focus and not really all that applicable to a wide set of hobbyists. Some of the ones that we have gotten over the years have turned out to be bad - thinking of Shemik's DSB studies in particular come quickly to mind. I would rather rely on experience of long-time reefers, but unfortunately not many of them post any more and you really have to know them from years past and still see them in person, text, email, etc. The analysis from PacificSun and Reef Breeders is as close as you are going to get to a study.
In lieu of a study, look at the posts around here and specifically the percentages of whites that people use with their fixtures... 20-60% for most? Most of these tanks are mixed reefs with lower depth inhabitants capable of handling more yellow, red, etc. that the light has not filtered off yet. Most of the locals with 50/50 LEDs keep them at about 25-30% if they have any SPS at all.
In the 1980s, I had a few montis and a pavona for SPS, some LPS and lots of softies. They thrived under 6500 bulbs and some VHOs - these were all shallower species. I don't remember getting any SPS that anybody would want today until 10K bulbs were out... blue tort, bali tricolor, etc. when you had to call on the phone and mail a money order to get some frags. This is a SPS thread and comparing 2013 to 1980s SPS is a joke if the midwest was anything like the rest of the country. If you want to compare leathers, mushrooms, etc. to the 1980s, then the white LEDs are probably really similar to the bulbs back then.