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- Thread starter Johnb123
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Redman88
New member
Finally came to me how it needs to be set up though just using 2 float switches is no safer then just one. 3 switches isn't any better then two.
A float valve is a better final cut off.
But if you must have a switch that will cut it off I suggest adding a third switch in the normally closed position and putting it before switch 2
outy
New member
That's exactly how mine is.
I tried coaching him in this direction but he found a different way that has all his floats messed up.
By his pictures I cant tell if he even has the same relay socket, I thought they were all the same.
outy
New member
You may not understand.
I have been using this system flawlessly for a decade and I'm trying to help the OP out.
In this case you want both floats working independently to control sump level.
I use a 10g tank for clean ro/di water before my kalk reactor. That has a float combined with a pressure valve and a solenoid shut off for added back up.
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
Yeah, that is excatly the setup i use also, been 10 years and still works great, gonna change out the float switches soon though just to be safe.
outy
New member
I had one fail 2 weeks ago. Good thing is it just sticks the loop closed.
Like you replaced both just to be safe.
I have it set up correctly and yes the relays aren't all the same that's why you were confused earlier. I found my problem turned out my power supply wasn't strong enough for 2 floats that's all.
I meant to quote here actually.
I have it set up correctly and yes the relays aren't all the same that's why you were confused earlier. I found my problem turned out my power supply wasn't strong enough for 2 floats that's all.
Aqualund
New member
Why on earth are you using a relay that requires a separate powersupply?
Use one of these https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/K10P-11A15-120/PB321-ND/254538 and then you just need one plug.
Use one of these https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/K10P-11A15-120/PB321-ND/254538 and then you just need one plug.
Redman88
New member
I have no idea where you saw that the relay needed a separate power supply. the one you posted is similar to the one the OP is using. the only relays i know of that might need a separate power supply are Time delay relays.
Redman88
New member
the one 120 line is the power line for ATO pump. one side of the cord is cut and the relay is spliced in on one of the two contact poles, in on the normally open side of that contact pole.
outy
New member
That is not how this relay works.
You need 110v going through the relay that turns on and off say an aqualifter pump.
You need the 12v to operated the relay, and it has 12v only at small amperage going through the floats.
YOU do not want 110v going through floats
2 plugs are required.
outy
New member
You never have priced out 120v floats I see. They cost much more. Plus the 120v have to have huge thick insulated wires.
It is what it is, and there is no reason to change
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outy
New member
Did you end up leaving the wiring how your first pics were with 120V on the lower screws, and floats on the higher 2 small screws?
Or with 120v on the higher screws, and floats on the lower 2 screws?
Aqualund
New member
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/deluxe-madison-float-switch.html
These are, and every other float switch I've seen are designed to be submerged in liquid (with potting material at termination points).
That is not true. The wattage needed to close the contact on the relay is so low that the VA rating for CE certification is well within limits. The load for the pump is on a separate circuit than the load to actuate the relay.
The float switch I linked above is rated for .28 Amperes (resistive) or 30 VA Nominal @ 120VAC, and it's not even close to that to actuate the relay coil. (the coil is 11mA)
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